New owner '83 944, need advice!
#1
New owner '83 944, need advice!
Hi, i just got a 1983 944 with 144k in completely stock form other than the rims. The car runs well with no problems, starts every time, no leaks anywhre, no blue smoke, and the oil temp is between 3-5 while driving and no rust (never driven during winter).
What i wanted to do is to change critical stock parts with performance ones, but i dont know where to start. What should i change first on the car is my question or in other words where to start. Any advice will be appreciated.
What i wanted to do is to change critical stock parts with performance ones, but i dont know where to start. What should i change first on the car is my question or in other words where to start. Any advice will be appreciated.
#2
Suspension. I'd get stiffer, slightly lower springs and some koni or Bilsteins under that car. You can't do too much with the eninge.
The best investment is in the driver - Driver's Education courses! Take the car on a track and get used to it and see its limits before you do anything, then you may have a better idea of what you want to put in it!
The best investment is in the driver - Driver's Education courses! Take the car on a track and get used to it and see its limits before you do anything, then you may have a better idea of what you want to put in it!
#3
Official Bay Area Patriot
Fuse 24 Assassin
Rennlist Member
Fuse 24 Assassin
Rennlist Member
not quite a performance part, but the next best things to do are:
1. Change the clutch to a spring type disc. The rubber hub (aka the hockey puck) clutches are prone to go out in as little as 25,000-30,000 miles on it.
2. Rod bearings. If the car is going to pushed repeatedly past 5,500 rpm I reccommend doing rod bearings. Especially for a high mileage car like that.
3. Sway bars. Exchange your factory ones for a set of 968 M030 sway bars front and rear to stiffen up the track of your car.
1. Change the clutch to a spring type disc. The rubber hub (aka the hockey puck) clutches are prone to go out in as little as 25,000-30,000 miles on it.
2. Rod bearings. If the car is going to pushed repeatedly past 5,500 rpm I reccommend doing rod bearings. Especially for a high mileage car like that.
3. Sway bars. Exchange your factory ones for a set of 968 M030 sway bars front and rear to stiffen up the track of your car.
#4
Change the timing and balance shaft belts. Your car won't perform at all if the timing belt breaks and your pistons and valves get to meet face-to-face.
After critical maintance, the next best thing is tires. They're the only contact you have with the road, and are one of, if not the, most important factors in performance. Then do some suspension work. What was suggested above is good.
As far as getting more power from the engine, you don't have too many options. To get any real power out of them costs a decent amount of money, and that's only going to push you to around 200 HP. You can do an engine swap to a turbo, S2, 968, or even something like an LT1. You can also run a 50 shot of nitrous without much worries if its set up correctly.
After critical maintance, the next best thing is tires. They're the only contact you have with the road, and are one of, if not the, most important factors in performance. Then do some suspension work. What was suggested above is good.
As far as getting more power from the engine, you don't have too many options. To get any real power out of them costs a decent amount of money, and that's only going to push you to around 200 HP. You can do an engine swap to a turbo, S2, 968, or even something like an LT1. You can also run a 50 shot of nitrous without much worries if its set up correctly.