First time Porsche owner with some Q's
04-24-2005, 01:53 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by Serge944
On an n/a, a timing belt job takes 2 hours, or less. All you need is common sense and a few common tools. No reason to have a mechanic do it for you. As for the clutch, I understand going to a mechanic if you have neither the time or the place to wrench.
edit: Oh, and how do I tension it correctly? Isn't there an $80 tensioner going around? Or am I supposed to take it to the dealer or guess about what it was before? Oh yea, is there a way to inspect the timing belt on your own, or would you not be able to tell if it was good or not?
Last edited by bigsheldy; 04-24-2005 at 04:01 PM.
04-24-2005, 05:37 PM
#32
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Can't tell by looking. If you don't know it's age, replace it. Procedure: http://www.clarks-garage.com/ For tensioning I got the Optibelt tool from Markus Blaszak http://www.blaszakprecision.com/ There's a tension setting procedure there. You might not be able reach him right now. He's supposedly on vacation for the next 2 weeks.
04-24-2005, 05:48 PM
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Special tools needed:
1. The correct wrench to hold the tension while while locking it down with a regular wrench or socket. There are 2 different sizes and I don't know what the early car used. I got mine here http://www.baumtools.com/
2. Pin Spanner to hold balance shaft sprockets.
3. Flywheel lock (engine in type).
1. The correct wrench to hold the tension while while locking it down with a regular wrench or socket. There are 2 different sizes and I don't know what the early car used. I got mine here http://www.baumtools.com/
2. Pin Spanner to hold balance shaft sprockets.
3. Flywheel lock (engine in type).
04-24-2005, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by JDeitz951
Special tools needed:
1. The correct wrench to hold the tension while while locking it down with a regular wrench or socket. There are 2 different sizes and I don't know what the early car used. I got mine here http://www.baumtools.com/
2. Pin Spanner to hold balance shaft sprockets.
3. Flywheel lock (engine in type).
1. The correct wrench to hold the tension while while locking it down with a regular wrench or socket. There are 2 different sizes and I don't know what the early car used. I got mine here http://www.baumtools.com/
2. Pin Spanner to hold balance shaft sprockets.
3. Flywheel lock (engine in type).
See the bottom of this page http://www.clarks-garage.com/work.htm
04-24-2005, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by bigsheldy
Well I got an estimate for the work.
Timing belt: $355
Clutch: $1450
The timing belt price seems reasonable, but the clutch is ridiculous. Is changing the clutch a hard thing to do own your own, or is it not worth the 40 hours of manual labor and frustration?
Timing belt: $355
Clutch: $1450
The timing belt price seems reasonable, but the clutch is ridiculous. Is changing the clutch a hard thing to do own your own, or is it not worth the 40 hours of manual labor and frustration?
Don't be a dummy. Get in the groove with these guys and learn. What goes around comes around.
04-26-2005, 01:27 AM
#36
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Regarding the constant heat, the most common problem is the plastic frame of the heater control breaking where the cable is clipped to it. As you can see, you have three slide levers to adust the amount of heat and to open/close the top and floor vents. These three levers are held in a plastic frame, and each lever has a thin cable hooked to the end of it. The cables slide in housings similar to bicycle brakes. The outer part of each cable (housing) is held to the plastic frame by a little metal clip.
If the cable is not held firmly to the frame, here is what happens: slide the lever to hot, and the lever pulls on the cable, opens the valve, you get hot air . . . . slide the lever to cold, and instead of the lever pushing the cable within the housing, it merely flexes the entire cable/housing, and it does not push out at the other end to close the heater valve. I know I am describing this poorly, but when you take it out it will be clear as day. Usually, the corner of the plastic frame breaks off, where the cable is clipped to it.
Don't bother trying to glue, epoxy, etc. it; just find a good used one or buy a new one for about $40. Buy a new cable for the heater valve, and route it carefully through to the valve so it has no sharp bends or odd angles that will make it hard for the lever to push on it.
As a TEMPORARY FIX until you can do this, you can manually close the heater valve under the hood. It is located near the firewall, near the top center. Use a long screwdriver or lever of sorts to push the white lever from the heater valve in the direction that pulls the cable out more. You will notice when you get back in the car that your hot/cold lever will be pulled all the way to cold, and there will actually be some resistance to it. You will find, however, that the valve will slowly creep open and you will have to keep opening the hood and levering the valve closed until you get a new one. . ..
Cheers,
Tony K.
If the cable is not held firmly to the frame, here is what happens: slide the lever to hot, and the lever pulls on the cable, opens the valve, you get hot air . . . . slide the lever to cold, and instead of the lever pushing the cable within the housing, it merely flexes the entire cable/housing, and it does not push out at the other end to close the heater valve. I know I am describing this poorly, but when you take it out it will be clear as day. Usually, the corner of the plastic frame breaks off, where the cable is clipped to it.
Don't bother trying to glue, epoxy, etc. it; just find a good used one or buy a new one for about $40. Buy a new cable for the heater valve, and route it carefully through to the valve so it has no sharp bends or odd angles that will make it hard for the lever to push on it.
As a TEMPORARY FIX until you can do this, you can manually close the heater valve under the hood. It is located near the firewall, near the top center. Use a long screwdriver or lever of sorts to push the white lever from the heater valve in the direction that pulls the cable out more. You will notice when you get back in the car that your hot/cold lever will be pulled all the way to cold, and there will actually be some resistance to it. You will find, however, that the valve will slowly creep open and you will have to keep opening the hood and levering the valve closed until you get a new one. . ..
Cheers,
Tony K.
