Danno

The old extortion trick was to make you buy the entire tensioner. You couldn't replace just the part that wears out, the pad. But now you can buy just that part for $23 or so and replace it.

bleucamaro

but where can you buy the bottom pad??????

Devia

I'm only confused because I was told the S2 had improvements to prevent chain failure, and I've never seen that engine apart - only 2 944S's, and lots of 944s, so I don't wish to make a mistake. I KNOW they have the chain, just not sure what the diff is between S2 & S1!

- Julie

Luis de Prat

Bottom pad is not available without buying the whole tensioner assembly.

Collective wisdom over the years on the 944S2 E-Mail list has it that the top pad tends to wear about twice as much as the lower pad, so you should change the top pad every 30K-40K miles or so, and the whole assembly every 60K-80K, depending on their condition when you pull the valve cover open.

You can get the top pad from Zim's Autotechnik, in TX.

ptk

I think you don't have to change the chain tensioners. Check them and if they are not schratched you don't have to change them. My father has the 928 S4 with 78 miles and we don't have to change the tensioners. It is the same like in 944 S2. In 968 you usually have to change the tensioners.

Luis de Prat

I disagree. A quick search here will pull up several instances of fatal tensioner failures caused by not replacing the pad or entire assembly.

The tensioners in the 928 are far less stressed than in the 944S2.

Mark944na86

Why is that?

-Mark

Tom R.

Since there is nothing written by Porsche on this subject, I started a thread some years back on both the 944 and 928 board.

Cam chain tensioner failure is not a problem with the 928 but is with the S2.

The general consensus, with error on the side of caution was change the top pad at 60-80k, and the whole tensioner at around 120K. From my informal survey, no tensioner pad failed with less than 60k. the pad on my gray S2 had 54k on it when I bought it last year, and the groove was barely noticebale. The pad was changed on my red S2 at about 69k and the grove was the depth of a thick fingernail.

The full tensioner is about $300. Sunset Porsche in Oregon is the cheapest for the whole tensioner. There is a 928 part numberfor the pad is posted if you do a search. That part is cheaper than the aftermarket Zims pad.

bleucamaro

Thanks for the tidbit on the pad v. tensioner. This car is at 90k, and I'm also doing the waterpump, seals, hoses, t-belt, and rollers (if need be). For the peace of mind, I think I'll do the entire tensioner and chain as well. GPR in San Luis Obispo has the tensioner for 295 which is the cheapest I've seen, but I'd like to have it this weekend, so I'll probably order from whoever has it in stock and ships quickly, and is on the left coast.

Tom R.

sunset imports will be less. i wouldnt worry about doing it this weekend, i dont think anything would be done over if you did the tensioner next weekend.

bleucamaro

I already have the valve cover off, and at the powder coaters. The timing belt cover is off as well, and the fluids are drained, except PS and brake ( but they can wait a couple weeks) and I'm just waiting on parts and tools so I can get the car off our lift. . .

jonnybgood

S and S2 both use the same tensioner and pads. The pads have failed on both the S and S2. I have learned that there were three editions of this head. The last one is identified by a grid cast into the side of the head and is on the S2. It provided a stronger mount for the tensioner. That modification does not change whether the pad will fail. The pads and tensioners are all the same.

In a previous thread the theory was put forward that the reason for the failures on the 4 cyl cars is due to more heat than the 8cyl.

Devia

Thanks, Johnny!