fezz

i'm getting ready to rebuild the ball joints, update to 968 caster blocks and replace the front rubber bushings. I ordered the OEM type sleeved rubber replacement bushings from Paragon - has anyone tried to replace the bushings - i'm curious how hard it is to press out the old metal inner sleeves.

I have a few spare arms and while the outer sleeve and rubber pull out fairly easily the inner sleeve appears to be quite tight - i dont want to go down the road of trying to remove the bushings only to bust the end of the arm from pressing the sleeve. any comments would be welcome.

Travis - sflraver

You pry out all the rubber inner stuff then use a hack saw blade to cut one groove in the metal rings that are left. This will let them close up a bit and come right out of the aluminum.

jc22

I took one look at those bad boys and went right to a shop to have them pulled out. Best $35 I've ever spent.

fezz

hmmm...

hacksaw blade - i guess using just the blade in a handle, doesnt sound like fun.

edit:
maybe the hacksaw isn't so bad

any other ideas?

Dave951M

It can be done that way, but if you have a shop that would do it for like $20, it's worth the bucks to avoid the headache.

Just so long as you get it fixed before 5/14

fezz

i should do it before, but not likely.

joseph mitro

that was one of the worst f**king jobs i did during my engine rebuild. it was a good 4 hours of nothing but pain and four letter words. i used the hacksaw method and installed weltmeister red bushings.

if you can find a shop to do it for $20-35, it would be well worth the money spent

fezz

this is sounding better and better.

fezz

first oder of business - sharpen the saw.

I'm getting the best hacksaw blade made on the planet.

Rod Thomson

Don't mean to hijack this thread, but; Joseph, how do you like the Weltmiester red bushings? Can you tell the difference?

car_slave

I put the red bushings in, and now have to redo one with a thin aluminum sleeve. They run a little too small, come with a warning from Weltmiester not to race with them. If you have doubts about your bushings put your car on some ramps and have someone move the steering wheel back and forth so you see if there is any kind of play. I think OME would be the way to go if I did it again.

fezz

well, i've practiced on a spare control arm and think I have a method for moving forward.

the hack saw thing seemed futile, especially since I had a terrible blade in the garage and didn't go to get a new one. I went right to the dremel to see what I could do. I find that if I cut some slots in the lip of the sleeve (about 6 spaced around the opening) and use a sharp chisel, I can bend the lip back around the whole sleeve. Now the seam between the arm and sleeve is accessible and i can hit it with PB Blaster and it runs right in. Let it soak for 30 min. and begin knocking it with the chisel and prying with pliers. eventually it gets loose and will let go. with one side out you can repeat for the other and either pull it out or knock it through the other end.

It took a fair amount of careful beating with the hand sledge and chisel , but in the end the arm pocket was not marred too bad at all. As your bending the crap out of the sleeve, it looks like your making a real mess of things and it will never come out, it will

I think the key is to get the Blaster in there to loosen things up.
The epoxy on this arm is a PITA to remove - any tricks for that?

P.S. - the OEM type replacement bushings will press right in and they look they they will work great.

joseph mitro

Joe, congrats looks like it's working better for you than me. be real careful not to overdo it with the dremel and cut into the arm itself. i made a couple really small nicks, hopefully nothing serious.

you have to pound out the epoxy with a chisel or something but be careful not to damage the arm again.

Rod - the weltmeister bushings seem to be slightly more responsive than stock, but i've made several upgrades all at the same time (968 caster blocks and new tie rod ends, plus stiffer springs and a track alignment), so it's hard to say exactly how the red bushings compare to stock. i would like to have monoball or spherical bearings for that "razor sharp" handling.