Stuck Caliper?
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Stuck Caliper?
Well, my car started pulling hard to the right. I thought the alignment had suddenly went funky, however, when the car was lifted I noticed the front pass. side wheel would not turn freely. It will turn, but not easily. So, I am guessing the caliper is siezed. Where do I start? Bleed the system? Is it hard?I saw the instructions on clark's garage. I don't however have a bleeder or a 2nd person to help. (My wife won't even come down here after my last session. I tend to get loud when I am upset at the car)
#2
Hey Man
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Jonathan-Sounds to me like just plain old rusty steel from living on the coast. When you turn the wheel do you hear the pad dragging or grinding like in a bearing collapse? If it's just a pad inspect where the tightness is and try to free up the caliper first. Pull the wheel and try to gently open the caliper with a large blade screwdriver alternating on both sides or tap gently with a hammer. More than likely you have one of the caliper guides binding or the piston travelled too far and is stuck in the bore. Here's a couple things that can cause the binding, I'm sure there are others:
1. The guide pins for the pads lost a retainer and has slid out of the rear hole. This will cant the pad a bit and cause it to rub and wear very unevenly;
2. The caliper guides need a good cleaning and lube. As your pads wear down to a low condition the guides get into new metal that is seldom in contact and these can be very rusty and bind;
3. Your rotors and pads might both be at their limits causing the piston to travel even further and bind up.
If you support the caliper when and if you disassemble it, hang it from the top of the struts with wire to protect the hose. Unless you remove a hydraulic line you shoudn't need to bleed it.
It's probably a good time for pads and rotors if they are worn down.
1. The guide pins for the pads lost a retainer and has slid out of the rear hole. This will cant the pad a bit and cause it to rub and wear very unevenly;
2. The caliper guides need a good cleaning and lube. As your pads wear down to a low condition the guides get into new metal that is seldom in contact and these can be very rusty and bind;
3. Your rotors and pads might both be at their limits causing the piston to travel even further and bind up.
If you support the caliper when and if you disassemble it, hang it from the top of the struts with wire to protect the hose. Unless you remove a hydraulic line you shoudn't need to bleed it.
It's probably a good time for pads and rotors if they are worn down.
#3
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: San Francisco, CA Porsche: '92 968 Blk/Cashmere
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I have a power bleeder you can use, but I need it this weekend.
If you drive with a frozen piston, you can warp your rotors.
PM if you need it., or you could just make one from home depot parts. There are intstructions on the net somewhere.
If you drive with a frozen piston, you can warp your rotors.
PM if you need it., or you could just make one from home depot parts. There are intstructions on the net somewhere.
#4
Three Wheelin'
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Location: San Francisco, CA Porsche: '92 968 Blk/Cashmere
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Also check the bearings for failure, although you can usually hear that happening over time rather than it being a catastrophic failure.
#7
Pro
Thread Starter
Steve, I think 80% of the people in this part of the state has this crap. I'm about to kick something. I was out with some buddies last night, and 5 of the 8 have this cough.