Blowing Oil Filter Gaskets
#17
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Originally Posted by Kevin Baker
OK, so someone make me laugh. I cleaned up the oprv, and hoped for the best as $288 is just a bit more than I have laying around. No dice.
Besides, you've had issues with oil pressure for awhile. Time to pay the piper.
#21
Drifting
Thread Starter
Update. Went to a local salvage yard that had an 86 n/a a couple of years ago looking for a long shot. No good. He wanted to sell me the entire short block for $250.
I bought a factory filter the other day, from the dealership. Here's the funny thing, Porsche box, LS154 944.107.201.08 It was $7 with the crush ring for the drain plug, and the Wix filters have been $12. They are the same filter.
I just pulled the oprv back out, and drained the oil, upon closer inspection, there was some very milkshake-ish looking stuff on the oprv, and in the oil that I drained. So here is my thought. Oil cooler seals? And how difficult are those to change with the engine in the car?
I bought a factory filter the other day, from the dealership. Here's the funny thing, Porsche box, LS154 944.107.201.08 It was $7 with the crush ring for the drain plug, and the Wix filters have been $12. They are the same filter.
I just pulled the oprv back out, and drained the oil, upon closer inspection, there was some very milkshake-ish looking stuff on the oprv, and in the oil that I drained. So here is my thought. Oil cooler seals? And how difficult are those to change with the engine in the car?
Last edited by Kevin Baker; 04-12-2005 at 10:59 PM. Reason: addition
#23
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I just changed my oil cooler seals because I had a pumper of an oil leak at the bottom of the cooler. Not a hard job, but time consuming because I decided to remove the header and exhaust for more room. I just couldn't see replacing the oil cooler gaskets without getting the exhaust out of the way. Glad I did as all the exhaust gaskets looked like they needed replacing after 21 years. I didn't use the 9215 OPRV alignment tool but, used the valve itself to align. I've got an early 3 piece version and after I torqued down the oil cooler cover I got it so that the valve and spring would just slide out on it's own. Took awhile to get just right. I hope that it works like it's suppose to after this. Now waiting for new exhaust and header gaskets and new nuts from my local dealer. I should have it back up together this week.
I also sealed (outside) a loose rear balance shaft cap, and tried to seal a seepy oil pan gasket where it is actually blown out and kinda torn. If this doesn't fix the leak I'll pull the whole motor out and do all the other "while you are in there" fixes. Ouch.
I also sealed (outside) a loose rear balance shaft cap, and tried to seal a seepy oil pan gasket where it is actually blown out and kinda torn. If this doesn't fix the leak I'll pull the whole motor out and do all the other "while you are in there" fixes. Ouch.
#24
That stinks. The good news is that you can probably clean up the oprv and get it working again when you do the seals. So it wont cost as much but it will take a lot longer to do. Did mine last year and it was a real wrestling match with the headers. I would recommend taking the exhaust studs out and remove the headers.
Good luck
Good luck
#25
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i had milkshake do to oil cooler seals, it was bad... I think thats what did my OPRV in, since its messed up now... waiting on used part to arrive. It looks like if you have milkshake from oil cooler seals, its likley you'll be saying bye bye to your oprv!
~Eyal
~Eyal
#26
Drifting
Thread Starter
Yes and no. Found a pressure circut schematic for the oiling system. In order: pump, cooler, filter, oprv, sending unit, main bearings, ... My thought, the oprv is an issue, its clogged, not working, something. Over 150psi estimated, bursts cooler, then filter, that is why there is a small amount of coolant in the oil and on oprv and nothing in the coolant. When the car is off, the coolant is seeping into the oil through the cooler.