aribop

http://www.parker.com/ead/cm1.asp?cmid=683

onewhippedpuppy

I didn't make the connection, they have a factory maybe a mile from where I grew up in Manhattan, KS. I knew people that worked there, supposedly they made very high quality products.

superloaf

Yeah, thanks aribop for that link--I went to the Parker site before but it's kind of annoying to navigate (those industrial folk just seem to think differently!) but with that link I found a dealer nearby so I should be able to get this done today or tomorrow (and then I can work a job I've got on Fri. with Michel Comte--HUGE french photographer whose in town shooting).

Are the Parker products as good as Aeroquip? I do like the Aeroquip compression fittings (they have an inner nipple which holds the end of the hose right where it's supposed to be) but maybe Parker has the same thing.

Kevin, you should probably do the short jumper line also--that's the one which causes a lot of problems. Did you consider changing this line? Just wondering if you had any problems finding fittings or whatever. When I change mine I'll post exactly what I use to change the jumper line because everyone should change all of these lines--mine started leaking and if I had been busy working or something I could have easily not noticed and ended up with a fire.

superloaf

God I hate LA! Anyone trying to do this fuel line mod, stay away from Parker--they're idiots. First, they say they have everything I need, "even metric." Of course, once I get there, "Oh, no, we'd have to order that. That's metric. You can't believe how many people we have coming in here looking for fittings like that." SO STOCK THEM, MORON!

Then some stupid bimbo pulls an evasive right hand turn right into my girlfriend's left front fender. Only problem, there was nothing to evade. "Oh, I hate Burbank. I always get so lost when I come here. Where's the freeway?" Yeah, that's right, it's down that dead-end street you just had to turn on (I'm not making this up). Shut your pie hole, stupid, I hate LA and you don't hear me complaining!

So after hours of driving around to many places which I was told carried SS lines, all I've got to show for it is a pissed off girlfriend, a scraped-up Saturn (those things DO NOT dent!), and a deeper hatred for the stupid people of the world who all happen to live in Los Angeles, I think.

Well, at least I tracked down a place which I'm told knows these lines inside and out (Orme Brothers). Now all I have to do is sweet talk the g-friend into driving me to Northridge tomorrow. Well, I'd better go--I've got a long nite ahead of me!

Thanks for listening to me vent and if and when I get this mess finally taken care of, I will post complete supply list and problems and experience in doing this so all of you DIYers out there can take care of your ready-to-explode old crusty fuel lines.

Cheers, and I feel better now.

onewhippedpuppy

Make sure you keep her happy, if you've already pulled your old lines, she may be your ride for a while. Nothing some sweet lovin won't fix.

z3bra

Well I can say the Parker store in Phoenix is pretty good for keeping metric parts in stock. (Granted they only use the term Parker store as a dealer, they're actually a separate company from Parker-Hannefin.)

Most of the time when I've gone there it's just been an issue of them being out of it but normally stocking the part. The other thing is that the main Aeroquip dealer here (Express Hose and Fitting) sorta sucks if you're talking anything outside their sphere of knowledge which is predominantly industrial hydraulic lines. They mean well, and they're nice guys, but they're a bit dense about things so I quit going there. The Parker store on the other hand has been pretty good and knowledgeable. They also have a back room in their display area with automotive performance oriented AN type fittings from Earls, Russel and a few other companies.

One thing that might be a good consideration instead of the braided stainless lines. Parker (and probably Aeroquip as well) makes hoses that have a black Kevlar braid instead of the stainless. It doesn't look quite as sexy, but it also doesn't rub it's way through anything it touches and it's a bit more flexible. It's also lighter although given the quantity used that's not really an issue. I was told that's what a lot of the pro racers actually prefer now over stainless. (If that's just hearsay and someone knows better, speak up)

ibkevin

SL, The down falls of LA driving are well known around these parts, sorry to hear about GF's car.

About a month ago a lot of Parker's PDF catalog links were dead, sounds like they still have problems.

The Parker parts in post #8 will put a female compression fitting to a -6 flare adapter on the ends of the existing hard lines. Then I used 25.5" (FPR) and 32.5" (FPD)sections of Earl's Perform-O-Flex double steel braid hose (EAR-400060, $7.11/ft through a local dist. vice Summit Racing at $8.66/ft).
To connect the hose to the adapters I used Earl's REUSEABLE hose ends (8000106, which have the inner "nipple", they cut into the hose and that is what makes the fitting reuseable). I'm not crazy about the blue/red routine but they have black and sliver finishes available, just not locally. Thses connections are behind the inner fender well....well hidden.
The FPR hose end is very limited, I used a hose finisher for a -6 hose from BAT (PRO-6 $3.95 from British American Transfer, Sarasota, FL). You could prolly make one of these. The metric male flare to the FPD was what I really needed from BAT (FS-1606 $18.30), the yellow and black fit the crest on the hood too. Bonus points!!
You may think the overall cost is prohibitive but all the parts are reuseable, and the only parts that had to be shipped were from BAT. FWIW, a couple of the Parker fittings had to be shipped from LA and arrived the next day. The Parker compression fittings were very quick to install, one turn and no leaks. Hope this helps.

Danno

superloaf, check out Earl's Performance... Sepulveda I think... They deal with a lot of the import motorcycle market and have tonnes of lines and fittings in metric...

superloaf

Kevin,

The FS-1606 adapter has the correct threads and angle/globe to fit the fuel damper? If so (which I guess it must if you used it), BAT is the only friggin' place in the country with anything to fit. I've tried absolutely everywhere. I'll be ordering that for Fed-Ex delivery tomorrow. How the hell did you ever find that? That fitting has caused me so much grief for the last 3 days.

Anyway, thanks for that info--you saved me a meltdown.



Danno,

Do you have anymore info on that Earls dealer? When you say Sepulveda, do you mean Sepulveda Blvd? If so, what city?

Thanks guys--

Danno

Here's the address for Earl's:

EARL'S PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS
189 W. Victoria St., Dept. SC
Long Beach, CA 90805
(310) 609-1602
www.holley.com

Also check out these guys, although they do mainly brake lines. Should have compression-fittings though:

RUSSELL PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS
2301 Dominguez Way, Dept. SC
Torrance, CA 90501
(800) 416-8628
www.russellperformance.com

superloaf

Kevin,

When you attached to the hard lines, did you go in from the wheel well? You said that your connections were well hidden in the fender so I assume that you removed the plastic wheel well liner--is this correct?

Ok, now for the stupid question: how do I remove that? I just looked briefly at it but it looks like it could cause some problems. This question also goes to the people with Pauer tuning lines because I think they tell you to connect inside the fender area.

Oh, and for those thinking of a DIY fuel line replacement, save yourself lots of time and just get the BAT parts-- www.batinc.net --They have a direct
Nobody else in the country seems to have these parts and I think they're the same fittings that Pauer uses (looks like it).

When I finally get this finished Ill list the exact details & parts for others

painkiller

The fender liners are pretty easy to remove. Three or four 10mm plastic nuts, one way up top, a couple on each side of the separation in the middle, (look to the sides of the strut) a few phillips screw holding it to the batwing and brake ducts, and three 8 or 10 mm self-tapping screws on the rearward part that is parallel to the floor of the car. Once you get all of these out you can manipulate the liner out by bending it in the middle and cussing some. The hardest part for me was getting the rear horizontal part out.

edit: there is a plastic rivet type fastener that also attaches to the liner at the bottom corner of the wheel well, visible with the wheel on. A body trim remover works well for this or a notched crowbar.

Hope this helps.

John

ibkevin

Yep,and Yep. I used a sub-miniture tubing cutter to keep the adapters in the wheel well, should a leak develop, that's a good place for it. You will need a THIN 17mm wrench to assemble the FS-1606, I used a bike wrench.
I really like the routing I used because fuel to the rail is much cooler, no numbers just fingerometer.
Remember, anti-chafing is your friend! Then get a stink'n membership so you can post pics!

superloaf

Thanks & thanks and I'll be getting a membership soon--after all this, Rennlist earned it.

cheers, i'm off to pick up the ONLY parts I could find locally-Parker 6-xtgs (1/4 NPT to -06 adapter)

otherwise, BAT-BAT-BAT-BAT--love those guys!