Help from engine builders - Updated pics!
#16
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Jane Bond 007
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Joe:
I do not know why it ran w/o pressure, but I know it was finally resolved and the engine then ran okay. I just figured while it was out we should take a look.
Zero10:
Is there an affordable way to fix the scratches if they're bad?
I do not know why it ran w/o pressure, but I know it was finally resolved and the engine then ran okay. I just figured while it was out we should take a look.
Zero10:
Is there an affordable way to fix the scratches if they're bad?
#17
Originally Posted by M758
It will take you 2 hrs at most to pull the crank and install new bearings and replace it. That is if you take your time. It is worth it. You can change rod bearings with the engine in the car, but mains need the engine out. Do it now it is not worth the risk of doing it again later.
Why would you need to pull the crank to do rod bearings? I have never had to do this and was wondering if the 944 has a special reason for it? As far as what I see in the pictures she can do the rod bearings in a matter of about an hour max. On a side note make sure you "plastigauge" the bearings to make sure that they are within spec if not then you might have to go to an oversized bearing. Also make sure you use assembly lube on the inners of the bearings during assembly.
I am currently doing this job on "Volvo4lifes" volvo after bearing failure.
Here is the bad #3 bearing
Here is an example of an undamaged rod bearing #4. (Very good condition)
#18
He means pull the crank to do the main bearings. The rod bearings are like 28 bucks from Paragon, yes, replace them. Who cares if they need it, in the car it is a mother and there is no good reason not to replace them.
The motor was an AMW engine, I advised her to tear it down after hearing that it had run with no oil pressure to insure it was put together correctly. I am sure I am not the only one who offered that advice
Those cylinders do look like they have some surface scratches, however there is no cheap way to replace them. I am out of town until Thursday night, I might be able to swing by there this weekend. My wife is pretty sick so it will depend on how she is feeling, she was just telling me we needed to go out to your place anyhow. I think David is out of town right now too.
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The motor was an AMW engine, I advised her to tear it down after hearing that it had run with no oil pressure to insure it was put together correctly. I am sure I am not the only one who offered that advice
Those cylinders do look like they have some surface scratches, however there is no cheap way to replace them. I am out of town until Thursday night, I might be able to swing by there this weekend. My wife is pretty sick so it will depend on how she is feeling, she was just telling me we needed to go out to your place anyhow. I think David is out of town right now too.
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#19
AMW = I understand now.
Yep change them all.
PS... you can sandsmooth the bores. I have done it to my 944-spec race motor. Take some fine grit paper like 1000 or so and dry sand the grove just enough so it smooth. Not too much. It should work just fine. Of course this not ideal, but will probably work. If there is no finger nail catch on it then don't touch it.
Yep change them all.
PS... you can sandsmooth the bores. I have done it to my 944-spec race motor. Take some fine grit paper like 1000 or so and dry sand the grove just enough so it smooth. Not too much. It should work just fine. Of course this not ideal, but will probably work. If there is no finger nail catch on it then don't touch it.
#21
Have you pulled a crank on 944 series motor?
If you have you will know why. I guess I could get it out, put putting it back in? The idea of holding 50lbs over my face with to hands while I install the girddle with 4 other hands is just too much.
If you have you will know why. I guess I could get it out, put putting it back in? The idea of holding 50lbs over my face with to hands while I install the girddle with 4 other hands is just too much.
#22
Wow, I didn't read that right at all..
Doing mainbearings = Pull the crankout (easiest to do when engine is out of car)
Doing rodbearings = No need to remove crank..
I read "mains" as "rods" and so basicly I need to learn to read.
Doing mainbearings = Pull the crankout (easiest to do when engine is out of car)
Doing rodbearings = No need to remove crank..
I read "mains" as "rods" and so basicly I need to learn to read.
#23
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Jane Bond 007
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Originally Posted by M758
PS... you can sandsmooth the bores. I have done it to my 944-spec race motor. Take some fine grit paper like 1000 or so and dry sand the grove just enough so it smooth. Not too much. It should work just fine. Of course this not ideal, but will probably work. If there is no finger nail catch on it then don't touch it.
Matt: Thanx for the offer. I might have you come out on Friday if you can. David is not sure if he has to go out of town or not. He's waiting on a phone call. If not, he'll try to come out tonight.
#24
Originally Posted by MichelleJD
Sanding it won't hurt the Alusil coating? I am home now and will go check how deep the scratches are.
Matt: Thanx for the offer. I might have you come out on Friday if you can. David is not sure if he has to go out of town or not. He's waiting on a phone call. If not, he'll try to come out tonight.
Matt: Thanx for the offer. I might have you come out on Friday if you can. David is not sure if he has to go out of town or not. He's waiting on a phone call. If not, he'll try to come out tonight.
If you are using any material that will smoothen out rough edges......... then it is too rough.
Don't touch it with any abrasives. You will create more problems than you are solving.
#25
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Jane Bond 007
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First pic is of cylinder wall #4. This is the worst scratch and my fingernail barely hangs on it.
Here's what the girdle, crank, and mains look like:
Here's what the girdle, crank, and mains look like:
#26
Well looks like a few hot spots on those bearings ....... the crank should be fine. It would be nice if I could put my hand on that crank just to feel it.... (that just doesn't sound right?)
...and what did they use onthat oil gallery ?? it doesnt look like 574 ?
...and what did they use onthat oil gallery ?? it doesnt look like 574 ?
#27
Those main bearings have a lot of wear for such a short time.
I pulled the mains on my 951, and after a supposed 70,000 miles the mains looked better than that. I couldn't find any wear marks on them at all. I was under the impression that the mains are pretty bulletproof.
I pulled the mains on my 951, and after a supposed 70,000 miles the mains looked better than that. I couldn't find any wear marks on them at all. I was under the impression that the mains are pretty bulletproof.
#28
Bearing on the end looks worse than the 196K mile bearings I pulled. Def. need replacement.
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#29
"Is there an affordable way to fix the scratches if they're bad?"
Define affordable. Most, with scratches that are bad enough to deal with, overbore to 100.5 and replace the pistons. Is that affordable?
Define affordable. Most, with scratches that are bad enough to deal with, overbore to 100.5 and replace the pistons. Is that affordable?
#30
Originally Posted by Zero10
Those main bearings have a lot of wear for such a short time.
I pulled the mains on my 951, and after a supposed 70,000 miles the mains looked better than that. I couldn't find any wear marks on them at all. I was under the impression that the mains are pretty bulletproof.
I pulled the mains on my 951, and after a supposed 70,000 miles the mains looked better than that. I couldn't find any wear marks on them at all. I was under the impression that the mains are pretty bulletproof.
The only part that is not bulletproof is the center thrust bearing (center main bearing). This one wears out quite regularly. My 180k mile turbo thrust bearing was showing copper on the thrust surfaces (quite normal at that age). All of the other bearings (main and rod) were all perfectly fine. As long as you keep the oil cool and clean, you are not going to have a problem with bearings.
Dal.