top end rebuild 86 951
03-15-2005, 02:13 PM
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top end rebuild 86 951
top end rebuild
Im contenplating a top end rebuild on the 86 951 i just got. car has 135k on the clock... car smokes a little on start up in the morn, but is fine after about a min or so.
Im going to have some extra cash and thought it would be a good place to put it (all other stuff like belts, fluids, maint stuff, cosmetic stuff is taken car of)
A few questions...
1. Anyone have a parts list of things i will replace?
2. How much green will it cost (in parts) if i do the work with a few friends.
3. Short list of steps (i have a manual on the way, but am just curious of the process. I havent opened up a 944 before, just American Muscle cars)
4. How long will it take?
Dave
Im contenplating a top end rebuild on the 86 951 i just got. car has 135k on the clock... car smokes a little on start up in the morn, but is fine after about a min or so.
Im going to have some extra cash and thought it would be a good place to put it (all other stuff like belts, fluids, maint stuff, cosmetic stuff is taken car of)
A few questions...
1. Anyone have a parts list of things i will replace?
2. How much green will it cost (in parts) if i do the work with a few friends.
3. Short list of steps (i have a manual on the way, but am just curious of the process. I havent opened up a 944 before, just American Muscle cars)
4. How long will it take?
Dave
03-15-2005, 02:41 PM
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1. When I did my car over the summer I replaced: All water hoses, all vacuum lines (including big ones), cap and rotor for ignition, ignition wires, front end belts, expansion tank, I also replaced my head studs... Can't think of anything else. My 'parts' cost was close to $1000 for everything in the motor
2. I would suggest at least having new guides pressed in. You may have to replace some valves and you may elect to have the seats recut etc... There are probably people on here that can suggest a good place in charlotte.
3. How long/Steps? It will take a good while, especially if you haven't done it before. The biggest problem is getting the head off. Many people have had trouble getting the cam bolts off. Do you research on that. Also, if you are going to reseal the cam tower, you are going to need an XX-mm triple square bit. I think it is 10mm. Check it out at clarks-garage.com. If you get a cheap tool here, it will break.
2. I would suggest at least having new guides pressed in. You may have to replace some valves and you may elect to have the seats recut etc... There are probably people on here that can suggest a good place in charlotte.
3. How long/Steps? It will take a good while, especially if you haven't done it before. The biggest problem is getting the head off. Many people have had trouble getting the cam bolts off. Do you research on that. Also, if you are going to reseal the cam tower, you are going to need an XX-mm triple square bit. I think it is 10mm. Check it out at clarks-garage.com. If you get a cheap tool here, it will break.
03-15-2005, 03:01 PM
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i had to use my 3/4" torque wrench with an 3/8" adapter to get the inside head studs off. It was a real pain.
btw, anyone in the fairfax, va area know a good machine shop?
btw, anyone in the fairfax, va area know a good machine shop?
03-15-2005, 04:48 PM
#4
Three Wheelin'
I've done the top end on three cars (two NAs and one Turbo), and the job is complex, but pretty straight forward.
The two major expenses are having the head inspected, and the head gasket kit. The kit runs about $90.00 and includes every seal/gasket you need. Having the head inspected/cleaned is going to vary from place to place, but I get mine done for a flat $168.00 at Sellers Auto Machine in Paw Creek with about a 3 day turn around. Talk to Jeff at (704) 393-8806.
While you're at it you might consider having the valve guides replaced. At about $4.00 each you can't beat it. Besides that, you get new valve stem seals in the HG kit, and since the head will be in the shop anyway, replacing the guides makes good sense. Seller's charges $20.00 to install new guides.
I would also recommend getting new mounting hardware/bolts/nuts/washers, especially for the exhaust plumbing. I've found various hardware "kits" at Pep Boys for about $20.00. I've also heard that Saturn exhaust studs are a good idea. The main reason is the Saturn studs have a Torx style head which makes them easier to install and remove. For stock exhaust mainfold nuts,studs and washers, try Pelican Parts.
Before you start the tear down, soak ALL of the fasteners, and most paraticularly the exhaust fasteners, with PB Blast. I soak mine the day before with a follow up soaking late in the evening.
While the exhaust fasteners are soaking in PB Blast, I drain the coolant, remove the intake plumbing, disconnect the battery, pull the PS and Alt belts, distributor cap/wires, rotor, timing gear cover, spark plugs, fuel rail, disconnect the cruise controls, remove the intake manifold, drop the fan shroud, and remove the front belt covers.
When all of that is done I get the engine to TDC and then I pull the balance and timing belts. Next comes the cam tower.
Next on the list is the exhaust. I start at the collector flanges and finish with the exhaust header. Once the headers are out I pull the head and the tear down is complete.
While the head is in the shop I go through all of the vacuum and intake plumbing and I replace anything that is brittle, cracked, or just doesn't look right. I clean/replace the main ground terminals, clean the piston tops, clean the cylinder tops, inspect/replace the heater control valve, install new injector O-Rings, yadda, yadda, yadda.
Once the head is finished it is just a matter of putting everything back where it came from.
As for how much time this all takes, its really hard to say exactly, but figure at least a week to 10 days. This will give you a day or two for tear down, three days for the head work, and a day or two for reassembly.
Since you mentioned you have some linen interior parts, I'd be willing to discuss some form of barter arrangement in lieu of labor charges.
The two major expenses are having the head inspected, and the head gasket kit. The kit runs about $90.00 and includes every seal/gasket you need. Having the head inspected/cleaned is going to vary from place to place, but I get mine done for a flat $168.00 at Sellers Auto Machine in Paw Creek with about a 3 day turn around. Talk to Jeff at (704) 393-8806.
While you're at it you might consider having the valve guides replaced. At about $4.00 each you can't beat it. Besides that, you get new valve stem seals in the HG kit, and since the head will be in the shop anyway, replacing the guides makes good sense. Seller's charges $20.00 to install new guides.
I would also recommend getting new mounting hardware/bolts/nuts/washers, especially for the exhaust plumbing. I've found various hardware "kits" at Pep Boys for about $20.00. I've also heard that Saturn exhaust studs are a good idea. The main reason is the Saturn studs have a Torx style head which makes them easier to install and remove. For stock exhaust mainfold nuts,studs and washers, try Pelican Parts.
Before you start the tear down, soak ALL of the fasteners, and most paraticularly the exhaust fasteners, with PB Blast. I soak mine the day before with a follow up soaking late in the evening.
While the exhaust fasteners are soaking in PB Blast, I drain the coolant, remove the intake plumbing, disconnect the battery, pull the PS and Alt belts, distributor cap/wires, rotor, timing gear cover, spark plugs, fuel rail, disconnect the cruise controls, remove the intake manifold, drop the fan shroud, and remove the front belt covers.
When all of that is done I get the engine to TDC and then I pull the balance and timing belts. Next comes the cam tower.
Next on the list is the exhaust. I start at the collector flanges and finish with the exhaust header. Once the headers are out I pull the head and the tear down is complete.
While the head is in the shop I go through all of the vacuum and intake plumbing and I replace anything that is brittle, cracked, or just doesn't look right. I clean/replace the main ground terminals, clean the piston tops, clean the cylinder tops, inspect/replace the heater control valve, install new injector O-Rings, yadda, yadda, yadda.
Once the head is finished it is just a matter of putting everything back where it came from.
As for how much time this all takes, its really hard to say exactly, but figure at least a week to 10 days. This will give you a day or two for tear down, three days for the head work, and a day or two for reassembly.
Since you mentioned you have some linen interior parts, I'd be willing to discuss some form of barter arrangement in lieu of labor charges.
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03-15-2005, 05:53 PM
#8
Administrator - "Tyson"
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I'll piggy back this thread since it's on the same direction I'm going.
I'm doing a head job on my 81 928. The heads are very similar to 944 heads. I need a valve spring compressor - I've been told the factory tool is hard to find (and expensive) Anyone have any luck using any generic non Porsche specific valve spring compressors on their 944's?
I'm doing a head job on my 81 928. The heads are very similar to 944 heads. I need a valve spring compressor - I've been told the factory tool is hard to find (and expensive) Anyone have any luck using any generic non Porsche specific valve spring compressors on their 944's?