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FUEL LINE FITTING GB feeler........

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Old 02-10-2005, 01:11 AM
  #16  
hosrom_951
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So, this is the crimp?

Old 02-10-2005, 01:16 AM
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Manning
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Yes that is the crimped connection. And based on that picture I was mistaken about the rolled crimp.
Old 02-10-2005, 01:18 AM
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Ok, so going back to the thread , these crimps leak (fail) and you guys are planning on replacing them right? they would be 3 crimps in total?

Basically, this would require the removal of the fuel lines, and sending them out to a pressing shop to install the crimps and re-install them into the car....right?
Old 02-10-2005, 01:31 AM
  #19  
Manning
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No, I think what the plan is here is to get metric tubing to male AN adaptors for the hard lines, then make up stainless braid covered hoses with AN reusable hose ends (like by Earl's or Aeroquip) on one end to connect to the adaptors on the hard lines and Metric reusable hose ends on the other end to connect the fuel pressure damper and possibly the regulator depending on what type you have.
Old 02-10-2005, 01:38 AM
  #20  
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So, thsi would be for the whole hose(s) then? (sorry)
Old 02-10-2005, 01:55 AM
  #21  
Manning
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I think the idea behind the group buy is to source the adaptors for the hard lines. They are called flareless cutting ring or bite type adaptors and will allow you to use the stainless braid hose assemblies I described above. Basically the adaptors connect to the metric hard line on one side and have a 37 degree flare on the other to allow the connection of hose assemblies without using hose clamps.
Old 02-10-2005, 02:18 AM
  #22  
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Ya know, thinking about it, why waste time finding that stupid flareless metric tubing to male AN adaptor and just get the Parker flareless metric tubing to metric adaptor. That way you would only have to buy metric hose ends for both ends instead of having metric on one end and AN on the other. I think the Parker part numbers you want are GE10LM and GE08SM but I am not 100% sure about that.
Old 02-10-2005, 08:50 AM
  #23  
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Manning, you have the right idea. If you are really serious about doing it you can have the hoses made that come all the way from the tank forward.
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Old 02-10-2005, 09:42 AM
  #24  
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Just get a little hand tubing bender and bend up some custom SS hard line from the tank to the fender well. That way you can get whatever size you want and have complete lines from front to back. Probably be cheaper than the metric to AN adapters.
Old 02-10-2005, 10:04 AM
  #25  
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Travis,
Excellent idea, and then just go with the AN braze on adapters. Being a novice tube bender, this would certianly rack up the labor hours and I want to fix just the stuff that is broken.

Hussam, Michael's description is correct. As far as hose ends, metric or AN would be fine, I went with AN because it is readliy available. I had to remove the fuel rail cover because the slight amount of deflection it caused on the fitting in your photo to spray fuel. I am done flirting with disaster!!! I discovered it one day while cleaning the engine, rested a finger on it and she started peeing.
Old 02-10-2005, 10:13 AM
  #26  
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Hussam,
I just hit me, let's see........UAE..........you should be able to find these fittings in your back yard.
Old 02-10-2005, 01:36 PM
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F18Rep
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I'm in...
Old 02-10-2005, 02:14 PM
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I'm in for 4 of ea size.
Old 02-10-2005, 04:53 PM
  #29  
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If you bend up the tubing you do not need all this fancy compression hard line fittings. For the price of the fittings you could buy (make) a 37º flair tool to just flair the hard lines. On stainless tubing all you need is a single flair. On steel seamed tubing you need a double flair. Harbor freight makes a 45º flair tool that I reworked to make a 37º. Cost about $11.

It is really the way to go. I would make up kits (have made one) but you can't ship two 7' hard lines reasonably, nor do I have the time to make jigs so all the bends are perfect.
Old 02-10-2005, 05:38 PM
  #30  
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Cambria- That's a hell'va good lookn avatar you have there!!

Travis- As I was leaving the house this morning I thought the hard lines would be an excellent addition to your line of products, and like you, the shipping squashed it. I'm not familiar with the walls of these lines, but I'm guessing they take poorly to a double flare???

Flaring the existing line is a favorable application, anyone have some hands-on with this method??? I'm not a klutz, but I can just see my union down under the pass foot well somewhere.


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