Iceshark is god.
02-18-2005, 02:16 PM
#46
02-18-2005, 03:43 PM
#47
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Location: Maumee, OH
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Originally Posted by father2nate
Thanks for the website, I thought I saw them somewhere, but I couldnt remember where I saw them!
If I ordered the FullBoat light kit, and the complete battery cable set - would that include all the upgraded cables? (385 for the light kit, and $185 for the battery cables)
Thanks,
Matt
02-18-2005, 04:00 PM
#48
Nordschleife Master
Matt,
Danno put me up on his web site at www/http:www.gururacing.net .There are a few pictures and information. I really don't have any relationship with Danno other than I sold him some parts, he is a good Rennlister that I like, and he built a page about the lighting out of the blue. Well, he did ask me if it was OK to make the Page and I said sure.
The best thread on lighting results is by MTM on Rennlist. It speaks for itself. https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...light=IceShark
As far as battery cables and short of cash, then you better stop drinking and having expensive meals. I may do another run of 100 if enough guys sign up and send in $100 deposit. I'm pretty sure that will be the last build of battery cables. For good.
Danno put me up on his web site at www/http:www.gururacing.net .There are a few pictures and information. I really don't have any relationship with Danno other than I sold him some parts, he is a good Rennlister that I like, and he built a page about the lighting out of the blue. Well, he did ask me if it was OK to make the Page and I said sure.
The best thread on lighting results is by MTM on Rennlist. It speaks for itself. https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...light=IceShark
As far as battery cables and short of cash, then you better stop drinking and having expensive meals. I may do another run of 100 if enough guys sign up and send in $100 deposit. I'm pretty sure that will be the last build of battery cables. For good.
02-18-2005, 04:10 PM
#49
Nordschleife Master
Matt, the FullBoat headlight package is $384.50 with the shipping and an extra pair of 100/90 bulbs.
The full battery cable package was $264 with the shipping in lower 48 USA. The new price will go up. The last one is long sold out and so that is why the effort to get enough guys to sign up and send in deposits to do a new build of 100.
The full battery cable package was $264 with the shipping in lower 48 USA. The new price will go up. The last one is long sold out and so that is why the effort to get enough guys to sign up and send in deposits to do a new build of 100.
Last edited by IceShark; 02-19-2005 at 09:57 PM.
02-18-2005, 08:03 PM
#50
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Sydney, Australia
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IceShark,
My early '85NA RHD car has only 2 short negative grounds. One runs from the neg terminal to the frame and the other is bolted to the block adjacent the heater valve & runs to a terminal block on the f/wall. Both are about 6" in lenght minus the end fittings. 3 questions;
1/ Does my car have more negative grounds?
2/ Could you supply replacement cables for those in the pictures?
3/ Does you neg ground kit have any other cables?
Thanks
Peter
My early '85NA RHD car has only 2 short negative grounds. One runs from the neg terminal to the frame and the other is bolted to the block adjacent the heater valve & runs to a terminal block on the f/wall. Both are about 6" in lenght minus the end fittings. 3 questions;
1/ Does my car have more negative grounds?
2/ Could you supply replacement cables for those in the pictures?
3/ Does you neg ground kit have any other cables?
Thanks
Peter
02-18-2005, 10:00 PM
#51
Nordschleife Master
Peter, Dang, I knew one of you RHD people were going to jump into the fray. Grrrrrr.
Here is what I can do for sure. Those bare copper cables with bare crimped terminals (not soldered or sealed) are junk by now. I can make replacements if you give me the lengths from eye hole to eye hole and orientation of the terminals.
The big problem is the galvanizing on the body is doing its work as least nobel metal to protect the steel but causing less than great electrical connections. Which is the path for ground. Electricity makes a round trip so ground is as important as the positive.
However, once you get the motor running, a nice fat wire from the block to the forward frame rail should take care of things. If you want to do this, I'll be happy to build them for you. We would replace the battery ground with a new military/marine clamp and the cable. replacement cable from firewall to bellhousing. New ground from front of motor to left forward frame rail.
I think that should do it. We could also have another ground from engine block to the right hand frame rail.
If you want to do this let me know. I've got a cable from a pre 85.5 944 that goes from firewall to bellhousing in front of me so don't need measurements on that. Just need the measurements on the battery to body cable in the boot.
Regards,
Dan
Here is what I can do for sure. Those bare copper cables with bare crimped terminals (not soldered or sealed) are junk by now. I can make replacements if you give me the lengths from eye hole to eye hole and orientation of the terminals.
The big problem is the galvanizing on the body is doing its work as least nobel metal to protect the steel but causing less than great electrical connections. Which is the path for ground. Electricity makes a round trip so ground is as important as the positive.
However, once you get the motor running, a nice fat wire from the block to the forward frame rail should take care of things. If you want to do this, I'll be happy to build them for you. We would replace the battery ground with a new military/marine clamp and the cable. replacement cable from firewall to bellhousing. New ground from front of motor to left forward frame rail.
I think that should do it. We could also have another ground from engine block to the right hand frame rail.
If you want to do this let me know. I've got a cable from a pre 85.5 944 that goes from firewall to bellhousing in front of me so don't need measurements on that. Just need the measurements on the battery to body cable in the boot.
Regards,
Dan
02-19-2005, 07:34 PM
#52
Advanced
Dan,
Here's another RHD person lurking in the background
Mine is a 86 NA with the battery in the boot. I'm interested in getting a set as well. The earth cable on the battery to body has been modified recently(battery clamp replaced) so it may not be useful as a template in determining length. Let me know what you need from me in order to go ahead with order.
Rob
Here's another RHD person lurking in the background
Mine is a 86 NA with the battery in the boot. I'm interested in getting a set as well. The earth cable on the battery to body has been modified recently(battery clamp replaced) so it may not be useful as a template in determining length. Let me know what you need from me in order to go ahead with order. Rob
02-19-2005, 10:39 PM
#53
Nordschleife Master
Rob,
Just take the battery cable off, lay a ruler next to it for reference and take a picture. Then measure the length eye hole to eye hole. I'm pretty sure the bolt to the body is 8 mm but check to make sure. 8 mm is the bolt diameter on the tips of the threads, not the size of the socket that fits on the head (which will likely be 13 mm).
The other item is orientation of the terminal ends. With a short cable that is heavy like I use , you can't just twist it anyway you want very easy. I suspect the terminals from battery to body should be offset by 90 degrees but you need to confirm. The earth from firewall to bellhousing would likely be inline.
We still need to do something about the positive run. So you need to educate me on that.
Of course you could always fly me down to OZ and I can spend my extra time diving the Great Barrier. Have gun, will travel.
2000 bucks for a set of battery cables is sort of out of line, though. 
Just take the battery cable off, lay a ruler next to it for reference and take a picture. Then measure the length eye hole to eye hole. I'm pretty sure the bolt to the body is 8 mm but check to make sure. 8 mm is the bolt diameter on the tips of the threads, not the size of the socket that fits on the head (which will likely be 13 mm).
The other item is orientation of the terminal ends. With a short cable that is heavy like I use , you can't just twist it anyway you want very easy. I suspect the terminals from battery to body should be offset by 90 degrees but you need to confirm. The earth from firewall to bellhousing would likely be inline.
We still need to do something about the positive run. So you need to educate me on that.
Of course you could always fly me down to OZ and I can spend my extra time diving the Great Barrier. Have gun, will travel.
2000 bucks for a set of battery cables is sort of out of line, though.
02-20-2005, 02:52 AM
#54
Advanced
Dan,
Would a home video of my marine aquarium complete with live coral and a couple of clown fish do as a substitute??
Just took a couple of pics of the battery in the boot but can't upload since i cant find the interface cable
I measured the length of ground cable (from centre to centre) and it's 21cm long. The mounting hole on the chassis is about 2 inches(5cm) below the boot deck, if that helps. You are correct, there needs to be an offset of 90 degrees on the replacement cable, my only concern is if the replacement cable is the same length as the original, and it is not as flexible, we are going to have a tough time fitting it. I would suggest shortening the replacement by 5cm or more, so it is a more direct link. (Wish I had the pics, would have been easier to for you to see what I'm talking about.)
As for the poositive cable, all I know is that it must be bloody long, from the battery to the started motor on the left side of car and not sure where from then...alternator I guess?!
Cheers
Rob
Would a home video of my marine aquarium complete with live coral and a couple of clown fish do as a substitute??
Just took a couple of pics of the battery in the boot but can't upload since i cant find the interface cable
I measured the length of ground cable (from centre to centre) and it's 21cm long. The mounting hole on the chassis is about 2 inches(5cm) below the boot deck, if that helps. You are correct, there needs to be an offset of 90 degrees on the replacement cable, my only concern is if the replacement cable is the same length as the original, and it is not as flexible, we are going to have a tough time fitting it. I would suggest shortening the replacement by 5cm or more, so it is a more direct link. (Wish I had the pics, would have been easier to for you to see what I'm talking about.)
As for the poositive cable, all I know is that it must be bloody long, from the battery to the started motor on the left side of car and not sure where from then...alternator I guess?!
Cheers
Rob
02-20-2005, 11:09 AM
#55
Nordschleife Master
Rob,
I hate the thought of making that negative from battery post to sheet metal too short. In the LHD cars I actually add a couple inches so guys with different batteries have some extra length. Those with stock batteries just come at the bolt boss with a wider curve and angle. There are over two hundred cables out all over the world and no one has told me about any issues on this approach. And some guys are using those tiny 15 pound gell cell batteries. Maybe we make one as a test, you install and confirm length. This is why I wish I had a RHD car in my hands.
Now what the heck do we do about the positive run? No RHD owners that are interested in upgrading seem to have a clue where that runs. I certainly don't. It may not be all that longer than the LHD cars depending on how it was routed. There has to be an exit hole to get to the exterior, so where is that? And how is the fuse/relay box fed positive power?
Regards,
Dan
I hate the thought of making that negative from battery post to sheet metal too short. In the LHD cars I actually add a couple inches so guys with different batteries have some extra length. Those with stock batteries just come at the bolt boss with a wider curve and angle. There are over two hundred cables out all over the world and no one has told me about any issues on this approach. And some guys are using those tiny 15 pound gell cell batteries. Maybe we make one as a test, you install and confirm length. This is why I wish I had a RHD car in my hands.
Now what the heck do we do about the positive run? No RHD owners that are interested in upgrading seem to have a clue where that runs. I certainly don't. It may not be all that longer than the LHD cars depending on how it was routed. There has to be an exit hole to get to the exterior, so where is that? And how is the fuse/relay box fed positive power?
Regards,
Dan
