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New Battery Cable - contact info & updates....

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Old 02-17-2005, 05:04 PM
  #61  
Jakerx
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what good are brakes and suspension when your car goes up in flames because of bad power wires? prevention is the best protection

but if this post ever goes away from the first page...i volunteer to be the daily bumper. maybe pete can make this a sticky on all the 944 boards on rennlist?
Old 02-17-2005, 05:17 PM
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Helstrm
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Originally Posted by Jake 944CS
what good are brakes and suspension when your car goes up in flames because of bad power wires? prevention is the best protection

but if this post ever goes away from the first page...i volunteer to be the daily bumper. maybe pete can make this a sticky on all the 944 boards on rennlist?
Car can't burn up until after I put the engine back in
But like I said I will buy in 30 days....
Old 02-17-2005, 05:19 PM
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hahaha touché...but yep getting the wires before you put the engine back in would be best...would make things a hell of a lot easier
Old 02-18-2005, 02:21 PM
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Helstrm-

Get both the negative and postive cables put in before you drop that engine back in there. It will be easier, and you'll have no worries. That is one serious project you have on your hands, but at that price you can't go wrong!
Old 02-18-2005, 11:37 PM
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IceShark
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Originally Posted by father2nate
Helstrm-

Get both the negative and postive cables put in before you drop that engine back in there. It will be easier, and you'll have no worries. That is one serious project you have on your hands, but at that price you can't go wrong!
Engine in and out. Talk to Perry951 on what hapened when he kept the original cables. Can you say fire?
Old 02-19-2005, 12:06 AM
  #66  
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I won't put the engine back in using the old wires.... I promise.

Stage 1 Is sanding fiberglass and painting the engine bay.
Stage 2 951 Suspension and brakes.
Stage 3 New Battery Cables
Stage 4 Engine

I will have a hell of a lot more fun with the engine then I will putting the interior back together.... Uggg it is in boxes.. New carpet and seats though.
Old 02-19-2005, 01:07 AM
  #67  
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Dan, I would like to get a set, but I would need to wait another month or 2, before if I know if I have enough to get it. There's a lot of things that i need to buy to just get it to go back together. So if you could let me know if somenoe backs out or if thers any leftovers end of march -end of april, i will be interested if i can spare the cash...
Old 02-19-2005, 02:17 AM
  #68  
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Is that single RHD set far away? lol
Old 02-19-2005, 10:03 AM
  #69  
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Devon, There are a lot of people in your situation. But that doesn't help any in getting the build to occur. There are some items I have to buy in large minimums and I don't want to fork out $4000 for them and have to sit on the inventory for a year. It is very strange but I seem to be the only guy that orders a few of these parts in the whole world. So, the factories have to crank up a new run just for me, hence the minimum quantities. I escaped this in the past by getting massive free samples and people doing favors, but those days are over.

NZ951,

As I think about this RHD more I think I can do the negatives if someone will just tell me how long the negative from battery to sheet metal is. Positive from starter to alternator is no problem.

BUT, main positive from battery to starter I can only guess about. I don't even know how that cable is routed. How do you get positive power to the fuse relay board? I'd also like to fuse that run because it probably snakes over danger spots and that raises another issue. Starters can suck 400, 500 amps, and even more, if you have the right conditions like heavy oil, high compression and cold to get the motor real stiff. I don't have any real world data to say exactly what our starters can draw in adverse conditions. The standard automotive fuses only go up to 300 amps so here may be another "special" unique item.

I'm willing to talk about this some more if you want to do the leg work and give me pictures and measurements. E-mail me at wraydan@msn.com .
Old 02-19-2005, 11:01 AM
  #70  
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Hey Dan,

Did you ever get hold of a 964 to see if it was possible to do these cars?

Craig
Old 02-19-2005, 12:52 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by craig001
Hey Dan,

Did you ever get hold of a 964 to see if it was possible to do these cars?

Craig

Well, I might be able to get ahold of Jim B.'s car but I haven't asked him.

It is certainly possible to do. If you really want me to pursue this and can get other interest from 911 owners then I will move forward. It is sort of winter up here (a strange global warming type of winter) and I doubt he is using the car.

See what interest you can stir up. If it is enough I'll ask Jim to see if I can borrow his car for a week or two. If it pulls off you guys will probably have to eat the cost of giving Jim a new battery cable set.
Old 02-19-2005, 03:44 PM
  #72  
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Default Wires

Hi Dan, Here is another pic to help you out.
These are the stock wires in my 1987 944S and dans(icesharks) kit. notice the quality in the ends....
Old 02-19-2005, 11:26 PM
  #73  
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hi Dan,

I was fiddling around trying to figure out what the story was with my parasitic current problem, and thought I'd measure the RHD battery ground while I was there. Eye-to-eye, it's between 190mm and 200mm. Note that there's some excess here; anything over 150mm would reach my battery terminal comfortably.

-Mark
Old 02-20-2005, 12:41 AM
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Hi Dan: Will those wires fit a 92 968? If yes, I wasnt a full batter set. Just tell me where to mail a check. PM is fine.

Thank you,
Bill
Old 02-20-2005, 12:48 AM
  #75  
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Mark, you need to give me the orientation of the terminals on the cable. If you have ever seen my cables you know you can't just twist the short ones anyway you want. While it is fine strand, 840 copper strands in the cable, the #1 AWG and then the EDPM jacket makes it pretty hard to twist the cable in 8 or 10" lengths. The terminals have been crimped, soldered and sealed so not much twisting movement in them. You can twist with brute force but I'd rather have the orientation down right so you don't need to do that.


EDPM is the rubber that takes about anything you can throw at it, within reason. Heat, brake fluid, abrasion, you name it. It is what the good arc welders use on the shop floor. These cables get run over by heavy dollies, who knows what fluids dumped on them, molten metal, etc. In combination with the fiberglass sleeve they really are pretty good.

Which is why I made them .....


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