Just updated to the Perf Prod 944 Euro Driving Lights
01-16-2005, 10:29 AM
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Just updated to the Perf Prod 944 Euro Driving Lights
If anyone is interested in the mysteriously missing instructions, let me know. As with most upgrades of two of the same thing it was a 2 1/2 hour job. 2 hours for the first one, 1/2 hour for the second... 
Also wondering if anyone know's how to wire it so that both driving and the euro lights come on when in driving light mode (w/out headlights...). There has to be a way to wire it like that.
Also wondering if anyone know's how to wire it so that both driving and the euro lights come on when in driving light mode (w/out headlights...). There has to be a way to wire it like that.
01-16-2005, 10:53 AM
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i did it this way. your mileage may vary. did you install a separate switch for the new driving lights and kept the stock switch for the stock fogs???
if you do a bit of searching under my name for this topic, you should find a couple of threads as well......
begin cut/paste:
greetings all!
ok - i did it this way. your mileage may vary, but this works JUST like i want it to, which is:
1-each set of lights operates independently of each other
2-each set of lights operates with or withOUT having the headlights on
3-each set of lights operates with or withOUT having the high beams on
4-each set of lights operates only when the key is 'on'
5-each set flashes 'on' if they are 'off' and the high beam stalk is pulled
(driving on - fog off - pull stalk: both sets on. fog on - driving off - pull stalk: both on. both off - pull stalk: both on. both on - headlights on - pull stalk: all on w/high beams. ok - you get the idea.....)
Initially, i did the following modification, saved from 1997 PorscheFans list. Originally posted by Gregor Diseth (gsdiseth@efn.org):
Someone posted a few days ago about a February 1997 Panorama article re:
Porsche electrical systems, and in particular, how to modify the fog
lights to operate independently of the headlights.
I just walked in from the garage after completing the modification. Very
easy, and I didn't have to take apart the central electric board! I will
post my little mini procedure below, distilled from the Panorama article.
Please read it if you have a copy. See the article should your car not
conform to what I have described.
There are many reasons to perform this modification. In the US (and
possibly other countries as well) the fog lights are disabled when the
headlights are off or on high beam. First, I want to run the fog lights
as 'daytime running lights' without having the parking lights and the dash
illumination on all the time. Second, on a deserted highway at night, I
want to run the fog lights with the high beams for added lighting.
Here is the procedure. I did this on my '89 NA 944. This should apply
to most '85/2 and on cars. Please take the usual precautions - disconnect
battery negative cable, etc.
1. Unclip and remove the central electric panel cover.
2. Unplug and remove the G6 bridge adaptor (it looks like a really short
relay, only about 1/2 inch tall). The part number stamped on mine is
944.610.183.06. The label inside of the central electric panel cover
labels it as 'G6 spare links' although the Panorama article refers to
it as a 'bridge adaptor.' Do not confuse it with G19, which is called
an 'alarm bridge adaptor' according to the label.
3. Open the G6 adapter. Mine has a plastic cover. I just spread the
base enough with my fingernails to allow the bakelite base with the
contacts sticking out to come free. If yours has a metal cover or
otherwise differs from my description, well, use your ingenuity to
open it. ;-) Be careful when you remove the cover, or all of the
connectors will fall out, and you will have created a puzzle. Guess
who did that :-)
The insides of the G6 adaptor are very simple. Just a few links between
spades, and two diodes. Draw yourself a diagram of the interior so you
can put things back to stock should you get cold feet during the procedure
or want to restore the car to original. Or you can buy a new G6 adapter.
4. Here is the actual modification. The spade on the G6 adapter you are
interested in is #9. It is soldered at the junction between the two
diodes. You need to desolder and remove the spade. Be sure to leave the
two diodes connected. Or, if you do not solder, you can just cut or bend
off the spade. If you cut off the spade, put a piece of black electrical
tape over the vacated spot to prevent shorts.
Briefly, what you are actually doing (should you be wondering) is
disconnecting the low beam voltage source to the fog light switch, and
replacing it with a terminal 15 source, so your fog lights operate
independently of the lights, and switch off with the ignition.
5. Almost done. Look where G6 used to be plugged in. You will see each
slot that accepts the spades are numbered. Strip a 4 inch piece of wire
on each end, and insert one end into <slot #9> on the central electric
board. This corresponds to the #9 spade you removed from the G6 module.
You will want to stick a short spade in with the wire so it makes firm
contact, but leave the top of the socket as flush as possible. You will
be plugging G6 back in over the top of the wire you just inserted. The
other end goes under a fuse leg (nearest the center of the fuse panel, so
the wire is actually fused). This should be terminal 15 or X, so your
fog lights will shut off with the key. I chose fuse 25, which is heated
seats (which does not exist on my car - unused circuit). I would not pick
a sensitive circuit, like anything for the DME, instruments, radio, etc.,
just to be on the safe side.
Please be sure there is no exposed bare wire when you are done, and that
there are no stray strands that could potentially cause a short!
6. Carefully plug the G6 adapter back into the central electric panel
(over the wire you inserted into slot 9). Reconnect the battery negative,
and get your keys.
Testing:
A. With the key in the RUN position (dash lights on) you should be able
to flash the fog lights with the high beam stalk (original flash to pass
function with headlights retracted, parking lights OFF).
B. [New function] The fog lights should turn on with the switch, with the
headlights and parking lights OFF (daytime running light mode, if
desired).
C. Fog lights should work with the low (dipped) beams on, like usual.
D. [New function] Fog lights should work with the high beams on.
E. With fog lights ON, they should switch OFF with the key.
That's it! E-mail me if you note an error, or with any questions should
you get stuck.
Disclaimer: I am not liable for potential damage caused to your car
if you use this procedure. The procedure worked for me.
works great - just as advertised.
ok....that said, here's what i did next:
upon installation of the new fog/driving lights, i simply used the EXISTING FOG LIGHT connections for the new DRIVING LIGHT side, thereby leaving the FOGS not hooked up.
so - due to the above modification, i then had the same functionality of the old fogs, in the new driving lights.
i bought a 2nd factory fog light switch from partsheaven, removed the trim to the left of the steering wheel and installed the switch in the blank which is outboard of the original fog switch.
for clarification:
inboard switch now controls DRIVING lights
outboard switch will control FOG lights
then i did the following:
outboard switch (for fogs)
pin
1 ground - tied to pin 1 wire of existing driving light switch
2 12v out - thru firewall to term 86 on relay
3 one line to grey/yellow at pin 3 of existing switch
one line to grey blue at pine 3 of existing switch
4 from pin two of itself - see above
5 flash - from black lead at pin 5 on existing switch
6 12v in - tied to pin 2 (grey/red) of existing driving light switch.
AND bridged to pin two on itself
RELAY terminals (note - not as some other relays, but per the pkg labels)
30 12v out to lights
85 ground
86 12v in (trigger) from pin 2 of new switch
87 12 direct from + side of batt
I fabbed a small right-angle bracket for the relay and installed it on the cruise control servo unit in the engine compartment as it is close to the battery and also has a ground point close by.
I ran the trigger wire from pin 2 on the new switch under the dash to the passenger side and fished it thru an existing hole up to the battery area and then thru another existing hole from the battery compartment to the engine compartment to term 86 on the relay along with another line from the + side of the batt to term 87 on the relay. Don't forget to dab a bit of silicone sealant on the wire/hole to keep the wire from moving and eventually stripping off the insulation.
passengers side light.
with the entire light removed (the grey housing and all) i took a small awl and punched a hole thru the grommet that is in the back of the grey housing. just keep feeding line thru there - and keep looking inside the engine compartment - down low - where the wire will eventually show up. its hard to describe this, but i just keep feeding line (yellow for hi visibility) and then pulled it up and found a logical, gentle route to the mounted relay. connect this line to the lead from the (new) lamp. i then tied the ground from the OEM harness to both lamp 'frames' to keep the number of extra wires to a minimum.
repeat for the drivers side - running the line up the fender, then across the rear of the engine compartment (using existing zip ties, etc.) around to the relay and join BOTH wires to terminal 30 a the relay.
test out the connections/functions before you finally bolt up the light fixtures.
they should operate as follows:
both light switches 'icon' should be gently lit just like/along with the other dash switches
turning on the outboard switch should activate the outboard lights - the fogs
turing on the inboard switch should activate the inboard lights - the driving lights
with both switches off, pulling the high beam stalk will illuminate both sets of lights
with fogs on/driving lights off, pulling the stalk will illuminate the driving lights as well
with fogs off/driving lights on, pulling the stalk will illuminate the fog lights as well
each switch has a green light to show when the corresponding lights are on
test everything before you bolt em up! use your voltmeter!!!
i got into a bit of a problem when i had the + and the - reversed when i installed the lines to the additional switch - it made for some very interesting lighting control!!!!
i also installed some of the clear stoneguards over the lenses. jason at paragon said that they are only designed for the lower wattage lamps (i'm running 100w in both the fog and driving positions) and they do get hot - but there has been no discoloration. they DO get warm if you have both sets of lights on, but i put 2000 highway miles on em and they still look great. its amazing how good i thought my OEM lenses were until i compared them to the new ones from paragon. 13 years of road rash is amazing and the new ones look fabulous!
i realize this is post a bit vague and a true 'stream of consciousness' but its been a few weeks since i did the install - feel free to quiz me on anything or correct any errors.
if you do a bit of searching under my name for this topic, you should find a couple of threads as well......
begin cut/paste:
greetings all!
ok - i did it this way. your mileage may vary, but this works JUST like i want it to, which is:
1-each set of lights operates independently of each other
2-each set of lights operates with or withOUT having the headlights on
3-each set of lights operates with or withOUT having the high beams on
4-each set of lights operates only when the key is 'on'
5-each set flashes 'on' if they are 'off' and the high beam stalk is pulled
(driving on - fog off - pull stalk: both sets on. fog on - driving off - pull stalk: both on. both off - pull stalk: both on. both on - headlights on - pull stalk: all on w/high beams. ok - you get the idea.....)
Initially, i did the following modification, saved from 1997 PorscheFans list. Originally posted by Gregor Diseth (gsdiseth@efn.org):
Someone posted a few days ago about a February 1997 Panorama article re:
Porsche electrical systems, and in particular, how to modify the fog
lights to operate independently of the headlights.
I just walked in from the garage after completing the modification. Very
easy, and I didn't have to take apart the central electric board! I will
post my little mini procedure below, distilled from the Panorama article.
Please read it if you have a copy. See the article should your car not
conform to what I have described.
There are many reasons to perform this modification. In the US (and
possibly other countries as well) the fog lights are disabled when the
headlights are off or on high beam. First, I want to run the fog lights
as 'daytime running lights' without having the parking lights and the dash
illumination on all the time. Second, on a deserted highway at night, I
want to run the fog lights with the high beams for added lighting.
Here is the procedure. I did this on my '89 NA 944. This should apply
to most '85/2 and on cars. Please take the usual precautions - disconnect
battery negative cable, etc.
1. Unclip and remove the central electric panel cover.
2. Unplug and remove the G6 bridge adaptor (it looks like a really short
relay, only about 1/2 inch tall). The part number stamped on mine is
944.610.183.06. The label inside of the central electric panel cover
labels it as 'G6 spare links' although the Panorama article refers to
it as a 'bridge adaptor.' Do not confuse it with G19, which is called
an 'alarm bridge adaptor' according to the label.
3. Open the G6 adapter. Mine has a plastic cover. I just spread the
base enough with my fingernails to allow the bakelite base with the
contacts sticking out to come free. If yours has a metal cover or
otherwise differs from my description, well, use your ingenuity to
open it. ;-) Be careful when you remove the cover, or all of the
connectors will fall out, and you will have created a puzzle. Guess
who did that :-)
The insides of the G6 adaptor are very simple. Just a few links between
spades, and two diodes. Draw yourself a diagram of the interior so you
can put things back to stock should you get cold feet during the procedure
or want to restore the car to original. Or you can buy a new G6 adapter.
4. Here is the actual modification. The spade on the G6 adapter you are
interested in is #9. It is soldered at the junction between the two
diodes. You need to desolder and remove the spade. Be sure to leave the
two diodes connected. Or, if you do not solder, you can just cut or bend
off the spade. If you cut off the spade, put a piece of black electrical
tape over the vacated spot to prevent shorts.
Briefly, what you are actually doing (should you be wondering) is
disconnecting the low beam voltage source to the fog light switch, and
replacing it with a terminal 15 source, so your fog lights operate
independently of the lights, and switch off with the ignition.
5. Almost done. Look where G6 used to be plugged in. You will see each
slot that accepts the spades are numbered. Strip a 4 inch piece of wire
on each end, and insert one end into <slot #9> on the central electric
board. This corresponds to the #9 spade you removed from the G6 module.
You will want to stick a short spade in with the wire so it makes firm
contact, but leave the top of the socket as flush as possible. You will
be plugging G6 back in over the top of the wire you just inserted. The
other end goes under a fuse leg (nearest the center of the fuse panel, so
the wire is actually fused). This should be terminal 15 or X, so your
fog lights will shut off with the key. I chose fuse 25, which is heated
seats (which does not exist on my car - unused circuit). I would not pick
a sensitive circuit, like anything for the DME, instruments, radio, etc.,
just to be on the safe side.
Please be sure there is no exposed bare wire when you are done, and that
there are no stray strands that could potentially cause a short!
6. Carefully plug the G6 adapter back into the central electric panel
(over the wire you inserted into slot 9). Reconnect the battery negative,
and get your keys.
Testing:
A. With the key in the RUN position (dash lights on) you should be able
to flash the fog lights with the high beam stalk (original flash to pass
function with headlights retracted, parking lights OFF).
B. [New function] The fog lights should turn on with the switch, with the
headlights and parking lights OFF (daytime running light mode, if
desired).
C. Fog lights should work with the low (dipped) beams on, like usual.
D. [New function] Fog lights should work with the high beams on.
E. With fog lights ON, they should switch OFF with the key.
That's it! E-mail me if you note an error, or with any questions should
you get stuck.
Disclaimer: I am not liable for potential damage caused to your car
if you use this procedure. The procedure worked for me.
works great - just as advertised.
ok....that said, here's what i did next:
upon installation of the new fog/driving lights, i simply used the EXISTING FOG LIGHT connections for the new DRIVING LIGHT side, thereby leaving the FOGS not hooked up.
so - due to the above modification, i then had the same functionality of the old fogs, in the new driving lights.
i bought a 2nd factory fog light switch from partsheaven, removed the trim to the left of the steering wheel and installed the switch in the blank which is outboard of the original fog switch.
for clarification:
inboard switch now controls DRIVING lights
outboard switch will control FOG lights
then i did the following:
outboard switch (for fogs)
pin
1 ground - tied to pin 1 wire of existing driving light switch
2 12v out - thru firewall to term 86 on relay
3 one line to grey/yellow at pin 3 of existing switch
one line to grey blue at pine 3 of existing switch
4 from pin two of itself - see above
5 flash - from black lead at pin 5 on existing switch
6 12v in - tied to pin 2 (grey/red) of existing driving light switch.
AND bridged to pin two on itself
RELAY terminals (note - not as some other relays, but per the pkg labels)
30 12v out to lights
85 ground
86 12v in (trigger) from pin 2 of new switch
87 12 direct from + side of batt
I fabbed a small right-angle bracket for the relay and installed it on the cruise control servo unit in the engine compartment as it is close to the battery and also has a ground point close by.
I ran the trigger wire from pin 2 on the new switch under the dash to the passenger side and fished it thru an existing hole up to the battery area and then thru another existing hole from the battery compartment to the engine compartment to term 86 on the relay along with another line from the + side of the batt to term 87 on the relay. Don't forget to dab a bit of silicone sealant on the wire/hole to keep the wire from moving and eventually stripping off the insulation.
passengers side light.
with the entire light removed (the grey housing and all) i took a small awl and punched a hole thru the grommet that is in the back of the grey housing. just keep feeding line thru there - and keep looking inside the engine compartment - down low - where the wire will eventually show up. its hard to describe this, but i just keep feeding line (yellow for hi visibility) and then pulled it up and found a logical, gentle route to the mounted relay. connect this line to the lead from the (new) lamp. i then tied the ground from the OEM harness to both lamp 'frames' to keep the number of extra wires to a minimum.
repeat for the drivers side - running the line up the fender, then across the rear of the engine compartment (using existing zip ties, etc.) around to the relay and join BOTH wires to terminal 30 a the relay.
test out the connections/functions before you finally bolt up the light fixtures.
they should operate as follows:
both light switches 'icon' should be gently lit just like/along with the other dash switches
turning on the outboard switch should activate the outboard lights - the fogs
turing on the inboard switch should activate the inboard lights - the driving lights
with both switches off, pulling the high beam stalk will illuminate both sets of lights
with fogs on/driving lights off, pulling the stalk will illuminate the driving lights as well
with fogs off/driving lights on, pulling the stalk will illuminate the fog lights as well
each switch has a green light to show when the corresponding lights are on
test everything before you bolt em up! use your voltmeter!!!
i got into a bit of a problem when i had the + and the - reversed when i installed the lines to the additional switch - it made for some very interesting lighting control!!!!
i also installed some of the clear stoneguards over the lenses. jason at paragon said that they are only designed for the lower wattage lamps (i'm running 100w in both the fog and driving positions) and they do get hot - but there has been no discoloration. they DO get warm if you have both sets of lights on, but i put 2000 highway miles on em and they still look great. its amazing how good i thought my OEM lenses were until i compared them to the new ones from paragon. 13 years of road rash is amazing and the new ones look fabulous!
i realize this is post a bit vague and a true 'stream of consciousness' but its been a few weeks since i did the install - feel free to quiz me on anything or correct any errors.
01-17-2005, 10:19 AM
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I'm going to do it too! The main goal for me is to have the ability to have both the fog and driving light on independant from the headlights. That looks like it will do it while still having the flash ability. Very cool!
01-18-2005, 10:06 AM
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About $300 (+/-) and don't forget to buy the wiring kit (or get 3 ft of white wire, 3 ft of black, two 15 amp fuses and some wire splice connectors). Their connectors really sucked too, I ended up using the screw-on kind I had left over from changing out some light switches in the house. The left one was a B!tch since there's a horizontal piece of body panel that goes under the light and only has a (weirdly placed) 1 1/2 in dia hole to feed the wires through. The underside faring also made it impossible to access from underneath (and the low clearance didn't help much either...)
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01-18-2005, 01:21 PM
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I used the instructions Brian (washington) posted, but updated the pinouts. Pick up a cheap foglight switch and mount it in the factory blank, then you'll have complete control of both units.
Pin#1: Ground, taps into brown wire from existing switch
Pin#2: 12v out--1 line to terminal 86 on relay
--1 line bridged to pin#4 on same switch
Pin#3: Taps into two lines--gray/blue and gray/yellow from existing switch
Pin#4: Bridge line to pin#2 same switch (see above)
Pin#5: Flash, taps into black wire from existing switch
Pin#6: 12v in---taps into gray/white wire from existing switch
Pin#1: Ground, taps into brown wire from existing switch
Pin#2: 12v out--1 line to terminal 86 on relay
--1 line bridged to pin#4 on same switch
Pin#3: Taps into two lines--gray/blue and gray/yellow from existing switch
Pin#4: Bridge line to pin#2 same switch (see above)
Pin#5: Flash, taps into black wire from existing switch
Pin#6: 12v in---taps into gray/white wire from existing switch
01-18-2005, 01:35 PM
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ken,
thanks for posting that. i was looking for it and just found it in my PMs from you.
NOTE TO ALL- i believe the above post to be THE definitive post when it comes to the pinouts on the fog switches.
when i hooked mine up, i had some small issues that i easily tracked down and figured out. i might not have been as good about noting the pinout changes as i should have been!!! ken makes a great contribution.
thanks for posting that. i was looking for it and just found it in my PMs from you.
NOTE TO ALL- i believe the above post to be THE definitive post when it comes to the pinouts on the fog switches.
when i hooked mine up, i had some small issues that i easily tracked down and figured out. i might not have been as good about noting the pinout changes as i should have been!!! ken makes a great contribution.
01-18-2005, 01:45 PM
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Great info and thanks to all you guys but, why can't they just be wired such that they (fog/driving) both come on when turning on the fog lights only? Isn't there a way to make that work while still having the high beams with driving lights?
01-18-2005, 01:49 PM
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Thanks Brian, only one 25amp fuse sacrifiiced its life for us to come up with the procedure.
AZ--why would you want to run both at the same time? Fogs & driving lamps serve two very different purposes. Each is effective only for their specific design.
AZ--why would you want to run both at the same time? Fogs & driving lamps serve two very different purposes. Each is effective only for their specific design.
01-19-2005, 11:35 AM
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The bulbs are 55/85 PIAA bright whites and I want the option of running both those instead of the headlights at night (if that's even possible).
01-19-2005, 11:37 AM
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AZ, the procedure above will allow you to run both sets of lights at the same time. The G6 bridge procedure is what allows the aux liamps to operate without the headlights.