so is that why i cant seem to find any "rear LCA" derlin bushigns, either the front of the rear has to allow for flex?

and what are my options for sphearicals?

i see "racers edge" but those caster blocks and front LCA sphearicals come out to like 600 USD together! thats a bit pricy.

 

I'm having the Racer's Edge arms installed as we speak (hopefully).

Yes, they are not cheap but I feel that you definitely get a quality product and since I'm lowering the car at the same time I consider it somewhat of a safety issue. In the end it's worth it to me.

 

I have the RE rear bearing inserts, they're worth the cost, wish I had them up front (a lot easier to swap to replacement a-arms after you bend a corner!)...

 

There's a guy on ebay selling a product very similar to the Racers Edge and Elephant Racing parts but for cheaper, about 75% on most pieces compared the others. I have purchased the front control arm set, banana arm, and solid torsion mount from him but have yet to install. The pieces look to be of very nice quality though. Only difference i see between them is that elephants parts have a seal to keep out the elements, i'm not sure if RE has that or not though.

here is the link to what he has up now...
http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQ...Zfastechracing

not much at the moment but i'm sure within the next few days he'll have other things up.

to see the product here are the links to the closed auctions that i have previously won...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...1390039&rd=1,1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...1727622&rd=1,1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3509537&rd=1,1

 

????

My question is how are you "going through" stock bushings at such a rate? I've NEVER seen a replacement rubber bushing fail. Only old ones.

 

John,
If I put rubber bushings on my race car I figure it will have one event before the control arm slides back on the bushing allowing the steel arm to rub on the cross member. Sure it can stay like that for years, but I'd rather not have arm raming into the aluminum crossmember.

 

How hard is it to remove the stock bushings from late control arms? I hear horror stories....

 

you must sell your soul to the devil and 3 of your first borns

 

It's not fun - you can use a hacksaw though.....

 

I found that I was able to use a vise. Clamp the end of the bushing in a vise, then twist and lift the arm and the bushing came out after a lot of twisting and lifting.

 

The bushing itself isn't bad; heat with propane to loosen the bond, it will pull out pretty easily. It's the metal sleeve that's a real PITA to remove.

 

I already sold my soul in exchange for indexing torsion bars first try. My wife hates the car habit as it is, so I doubt she'll give birth for it....

 

On my steel control arms, I have delrin front bushings and weltmeister rear mounts. I don't have any binding when moving the control arm by hand without the hub attached. Do not use the weltmeister red bushings in the front on steel arms. Look closely at the round stock used in the fabricated steel arms. One side is flared and the other is not. The non-flared side cut all the way through one of my bushings and started cutting through the other. This occured in less than 45 hours of track time.