replacing fuel pressure damper and regulator
#1
replacing fuel pressure damper and regulator
Are there any tips, hints or "things to watch-out for" before I replace the fuel pressure damper and regulator on my '83 NA? Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for any help.
#4
A 24mm wrench was essential for me (for the FPR). An adjustable wrench just wouldn't fit, but that 24mm wrench I bought for "tuning" my 300TD did the trick.
Last edited by FRporscheman; 01-04-2005 at 10:19 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
Originally Posted by theedge
Dont do it when the car is hot, wait till its cold.
Unplug the DME relay then try to start the car, itll just crank but that will get rid of most of the fuel in the lines.
Unplug the DME relay then try to start the car, itll just crank but that will get rid of most of the fuel in the lines.
Also, it might be best to presoak those fastening bolts and fittings overnight in WD-40 or some solvent because they tend to be very difficult to remove and it's easy to bend the rail, like was said.
#9
Nerd Herder
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,526
Likes: 5
From: Central Illinois. Cornfields a plenty.
#1- disconnect the battery.
I found it easier to remove the entire fuel rail and do it on the bench- use the jaws of a vise to hold the FPR and damper while removing the nut. - better leverage and you can inspect / replace injector o-rings and rubber fuel lines whiile at it.
The brass fuel rail and mounts are brazed- they will bend and possibly leak if twisted.
Do this outside while engine is cool so if a lot of fuel spills it wont fill the garage with fumes.
I agree with Luis, ( as usual!) the Haynes is pretty good on this one- and have some shop rags under the rail to catch any fuel spill.
DO not start until the strong smell of fuel is gone, and watch the rail for leaks as someone else turns the key after reassembly. (i.e.- let it sit overnight and let the fuel you couldnt get with rags evaporate)
I found it easier to remove the entire fuel rail and do it on the bench- use the jaws of a vise to hold the FPR and damper while removing the nut. - better leverage and you can inspect / replace injector o-rings and rubber fuel lines whiile at it.
The brass fuel rail and mounts are brazed- they will bend and possibly leak if twisted.
Do this outside while engine is cool so if a lot of fuel spills it wont fill the garage with fumes.
I agree with Luis, ( as usual!) the Haynes is pretty good on this one- and have some shop rags under the rail to catch any fuel spill.
DO not start until the strong smell of fuel is gone, and watch the rail for leaks as someone else turns the key after reassembly. (i.e.- let it sit overnight and let the fuel you couldnt get with rags evaporate)