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Engine Drop/Removal Questions

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Old 12-07-2004, 10:20 PM
  #31  
Macfreak007
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Out the top with the bellhousing intact for me, but i'd never do it with the beel housing on again! If you come out the top, disconnect at the bell housing, not at the torque tube!

Otherwise... I vote for out the top! you'll end up all dirty like me!
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Old 12-08-2004, 11:53 AM
  #32  
Mike Murcia
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I might be able to lend you a hand Max. Just keep me posted on when you plan on diving in. I'm sure I can find some time. Heated garages are great!
Old 12-08-2004, 12:19 PM
  #33  
macnewma
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Thanks Mike. It should be fun. Sam wanted to lend a hand as well and I am sure some others will stop by too.

Oh and the garage is not permanently heated, but I will have a bevy of space heaters and that combined with the insulation should work well.

Thanks to all for the advice. I will probably just drop it since Mike has experience doing that. It seems like it is too close to call as to which method is better.

Max
Old 12-08-2004, 01:24 PM
  #34  
M758
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I have done it few times to my 944-spec car and parts cars.

Engine removed 5 times and installed 3 times. Out was never too hard (except for going out the top with bellhousing on). In was bi.ch all 3 times.

My father and I do it together. No hoist and not getto. More redneck.

We use a john deere tractor with bucket loader to hoist and sometimes to lift the front end of the car up too.

So ... proceedure is get everything loose and then raise the car up pretty high. Use the hoist support the weight of the engine. Slide the engine forward to get it off the torque tube. Then lower down.

We put it on the bottom of shopping cart


The pain is getting the torque tube to line up on the clutch. 3 times we have done it and it always was a pain in the rear!

How high to lift the front... Here are some pics before install #2...





Note.... by taking off the front spoiler bumper and the lower radidator support bar you dont need the front of the car anywhere near as high off the ground.

You might ask how we got the car so high.... Answer John Deere.
You might ask how high we lifted the engine. Well we got the engine under the car then lowered the car down greatly. Then lifed the engine again. It is this high to allow use to roll the engine under the car.

Here is the engine on the cart ready to go in.

Old 12-08-2004, 01:54 PM
  #35  
lilredpo
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Originally Posted by CurlyDE
Any suggestions on where to hook a hoist if the head is not currently on the block? The front location is still there, but not the rear one.
I fashioned a bracket out of aluminum. Approx 1" x 8" x 1/2", drilled two holes and used the nuts and washers from the head to attach to the head bolts in the back.

Worked great and the allum was soft enough not to damage any threads.

PM me, I might be able to send you one.

Good luck.

Ray
Old 12-08-2004, 02:02 PM
  #36  
lilredpo
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Originally Posted by macnewma
[*]Should I drop it onto carpet, a dolly, plywood on dowels or <insert here> ????
<PLASTIC> In order to reduce the height and increase slippage, I used a sheet of plastic, approx. 4' x 8', folded in half.

Plastic on plastic was like sliding on ice.

Used a hoist to gently lower, then It was amazing how easy it was to pull the engine out.
Old 12-08-2004, 09:30 PM
  #37  
Granite 944
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Originally Posted by Jason_86_951
Jason, I just noticed that the long frame jack your referring to above,is the same one I bought about 5 months ago. I was able to buy it for $99.00 at the time on sale at my local store. They put these jacks/hoists and such on sale frequently, but they are generally only offered at really good prices at the individual stores, maybe once every other month or so (sometimes longer). If you have a Harbor Freight store nearby, get down there, buy something, and get your name on their mailing list for these in store specials. I'm getting these flyers almost weekly now. Seen this same jack on sale a few times prior for $139.99, but ran right down there when it hit $99.99 on a weekend only sale. Same holds true for most of their stuff. If you don't have a store nearby, let me know what your wish list is, and I'll let ya know when a good sale hits over here at my local store.......might be able to save ya a few bucks. I also bought their transmission jack SKU 0057 not long ago also. It has the same saddle pin size that my long frame jack and old sears floor jack has in it. Haven't used it yet, but keep the saddle pin sizes in mind when your buying some of this stuff, so you can flip/flop saddle fixtures, and will all match up, and be usable together. Their not all the same sizes. Longframe is the only way to go. That way you can jack the car clear to the moon in one shot, if you want.
Old 12-08-2004, 11:04 PM
  #38  
lleroyb
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Pictures of an engine install outside are freaking me out. Am I the only one?

Lou
Old 12-08-2004, 11:11 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by lleroyb
Pictures of an engine install outside are freaking me out. Am I the only one?

Lou
If it were up here in the PNW, yeah! Arizona.......not much of an issue I doubt.
Old 12-09-2004, 10:21 AM
  #40  
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Here's a pic of my engine getting pulled out the top:

Engine removal pic

I have no personal experience with this procedure (besides paying for it). I was surprised to see how much could be left on the car (for example, the hood) and the engine (for example, the exhaust manifold) when removing the engine from the top. But the procedure seems to work just fine.
Old 12-09-2004, 10:32 AM
  #41  
M758
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Originally Posted by lleroyb
Pictures of an engine install outside are freaking me out. Am I the only one?

Lou
Can't get the bucket loader in the garage!

Note... pics were taken around Christmas time 2 years ago.
Old 12-13-2004, 10:37 AM
  #42  
lleroyb
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M758, Good show. I was born and raised in Tucson. We had a big house but only a car port. After living in Montana, Colorado and now Seattle area working outside (esp. at my age) would take some adjustment time.

BTW, you are living my dream, Turbo S for street, Spec n/a for the track.

Lou



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