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Lowering Front But Not Reindexing the Rear

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Old 12-06-2004, 05:33 PM
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arbeitm
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Default Lowering Front But Not Reindexing the Rear

I've done a search but haven't really found my specific questions.

I have to rebuild my control arms. One of the mod's I've been considering is lowering the car. Since I'm rebuilding the control arms I'd rather get Rennbay's GCK kit if I'm actually going to go that route. My quesions are:

I'm looking at the Weltmeister 200# springs which lower the car about 1.5". There is no way in hell I'm going to re-index the rear. So I'll only adjust the eccentric nuts to get the 3/4". Will the car sit correctly with the above setup? I've read that the front/rear difference should not be more than 1/2".

Also, can I re-use my existing struts or do I need to get new ones? My current ones are fine.

My car is only used for street driving (no track...yet). I am contemplating doing this because I want to reduce some of the body roll on tight turns on the freeway. Maybe this isn't even the right mod for this problem? If not what do you recommend?
Old 12-06-2004, 05:49 PM
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M758
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You will have oversteer. However the 200 lbs springs add understeer.

So.... Net effect.... Hell if I know, but it may not be half bad.
... Then again it could suck royally!

Should be fine using the struts unless the shock are dead.
Old 12-06-2004, 06:08 PM
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Steve PH
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To reduce body roll you would be better off with a thicker rear anti roll bar like an MO30 adjustable unit. Stiffening the front and leaving the rear sticking up in the air will mean your car looks funny! But also the handling will be a bit odd, in the bends you will get understeer initially, push a little harder and the understeer will give way to nasty roll oversteer.

Basically the back end will jack up, lean over and slide in a less than controllable manner. Personally I would recommend standard front springs with decent dampers (like konis or similar). Make sure the back is set level, get a full geometry check and look at stiffer anti roll bars.

Only lower the front if you can get the back end level with it !

BTW I'm not just making this up. I've played about with the suspension on my 944 and done a lot of fast road driving and a few track days. I'm no expert but I know what feels good and I know what I like!
Old 12-06-2004, 06:13 PM
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arbeitm
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I have a feeling lowering springs weren't going to be my answer. I'll try a thicker rear sway bar first and see how that does. Thanks.
Old 12-06-2004, 09:25 PM
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Zero10
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You can get spacers for the springs, like $20 a set. Perhaps this will assist you in finding the solution?

I'm planning to re-index the torsion bars to bring the rear down when I put stiffer springs in the front. I don't think it'll be that bad, or at least I hope not.
Old 12-07-2004, 08:01 AM
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TheRealLefty
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Steve's on the money here, from my experience. When I first installed 200# Weltmeister springs on my 85.5 NA it did exactly what he describes. AutoX turn-in was OK, pushed under throtlle in the middle of turns and then turned to a permanent tail-out exit. Works great now, though, after taking the rear eccentric as low as it could go, setting the rear M030 in the shortest setting and putting -2.5 camber all round.

As the season progressed, we replaced the rear dog bones with spherical bearing drop links, stiffened the rear shocks about 15% and moved the bar back to medium setting. This seemed to retain the turn-in and help the rears hook up tracking out of wider turns. I think this tweak uses increased shock resistance to preserve the turn-in at transition but allows the rear to be a tick softer once the car's weight is transferred to the outside allowing more rear grip when it is needed most.

During DE at Summit Point this set up worked nicely, with a slight increase in front shock stiffness and adding a pound or two to the rear tire pressures. Car was quick in the autoX setting but twitchy in the esses and through 9 and 10. Dialing out a little oversteer allowed me to stay in the throttle better between the Carousel through 10.



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