Valve guides and seals
#1
Burning Brakes
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I need to change my cam tower gasket due to an oil leak gettting on the exhaust. Already did the rear cap gasket and I can see the leak so I know I have to do this.
Im thinking I might as well get new lifters while Im there. I've seen a few posts about valve seals and Im wondering just how hard this really is with the head still on the block. Also, what about doing the valve guides? Is that impossible to do without removing the head? I dont notice the tell tale blue smoke at start up so I can probably just wait until it really is necessary if the job is very difficult.
Im just trying to do as much as I can while I have access to things.
Thanks in advance
Im thinking I might as well get new lifters while Im there. I've seen a few posts about valve seals and Im wondering just how hard this really is with the head still on the block. Also, what about doing the valve guides? Is that impossible to do without removing the head? I dont notice the tell tale blue smoke at start up so I can probably just wait until it really is necessary if the job is very difficult.
Im just trying to do as much as I can while I have access to things.
Thanks in advance
#2
Burning Brakes
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I cannot see how it would be possible to replace valve seals or guides with the head on the engine. I certainly wouldn't attempt it. Once the cam tower is off, removing the head is not much extra work. It's a good opportunity to do the work you've described, as well as cleaning the valves
and combustion chambers. When I did it, I also found a couple of surprises. One of the valve springs had broken, and all the valve seals on the exhaust valves had come loose off the guides and
were free-floating on the valve stems. No wonder my engine was burning oil !
and combustion chambers. When I did it, I also found a couple of surprises. One of the valve springs had broken, and all the valve seals on the exhaust valves had come loose off the guides and
were free-floating on the valve stems. No wonder my engine was burning oil !
#3
Burning Brakes
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Did you have any other symptoms other than burning oil? I would think you would have some sounds and power loss as wellk.
I am probably going to have to do this all in one day 2 at most so pulling the head might not be feasible. Its the first time I will have done this so Im not sure I want to go that far either this time. I will be pretty confident in doing that in the future once I get thru this job though. This site is really helping me prepare ie clarks garage, tools, etc.
I am probably going to have to do this all in one day 2 at most so pulling the head might not be feasible. Its the first time I will have done this so Im not sure I want to go that far either this time. I will be pretty confident in doing that in the future once I get thru this job though. This site is really helping me prepare ie clarks garage, tools, etc.
#4
Spell Checker
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Another thing that is useful is taking some engine assembly lube and putting it in the freezer. Use that on the bores and the outside of each lifter when putting it back on. That way the lifters will stay in place. You will also likely need another set of hands.
You should really reseal the cam tower with all the seals etc. If you are doing that, run the cam tower through parts cleaner. That will help alot when trying to get the new cam tower gasket not to leak. It can be problematic if the cam tower isn't completely dry/devoid of oil. Hope that helps.
You should really reseal the cam tower with all the seals etc. If you are doing that, run the cam tower through parts cleaner. That will help alot when trying to get the new cam tower gasket not to leak. It can be problematic if the cam tower isn't completely dry/devoid of oil. Hope that helps.
#5
Three Wheelin'
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Since you are going to have the cam tower off anyway, pull the head as well. When you order the head gasket kit you get not only the head and cam tower gaskets, you get new cam seals, rear tower seal, intake gaskets, exhaust gaskets, and several other seals/gaskets, including new valve stem seals. New valve quides are about $5.00 each.
This will also give you a chance to replace the exhaust studs/nuts/washers, and do some cleaning/preservation.
Ask you local dealer about who they use for their machine work, and go talk to them BEFORE you tear into the engine. I use a shop in Charlotte, NC that will check/clean a 944 head for $168.00. Installing valve quides and seals is an additional $20.00. As always, YMMV.
This will also give you a chance to replace the exhaust studs/nuts/washers, and do some cleaning/preservation.
Ask you local dealer about who they use for their machine work, and go talk to them BEFORE you tear into the engine. I use a shop in Charlotte, NC that will check/clean a 944 head for $168.00. Installing valve quides and seals is an additional $20.00. As always, YMMV.
#6
Race Car
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oh, boy, all those "while you're in there" things can really add up. with the head off, might as well completely rebuild it with new valves, springs, etc. i'm talking tongue in cheek of course, but from experience that is what happens.
if it's just the cam tower gasket that is leaking, the price difference between fixing that and pulling/rebuilding the head is substantial. just depends how much money and down-time you have.
if it's just the cam tower gasket that is leaking, the price difference between fixing that and pulling/rebuilding the head is substantial. just depends how much money and down-time you have.
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Hey guys, I've got a similar slight oil leak at the bottom (exhaust side) of my cam tower cover. It's not bad, just enough to be annoying. Is there any chance just snugging the bolts down will be enough to stop the leak, or do these gaskets (I know they're cheap) just get completely shot from heat and such? I haven't checked the torque on the bolts yet. (I know, I should do that before I post this.)
Thanks,
-David
Thanks,
-David