Replacement shift boot
#1
Cast Iron Man
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OK, so I'm looking at the black vinyl shift boot from Rennbay ($21.99) and the AGLA boot from Paragon ($58.95 - color matched leather - I have blue interior).
Is it worth the extra $$$ to get the color matched leather? Has anyone had experience installing one or the other or both?
My shift **** also seems a little loose on the lever. Do these wear out also?
Is it worth the extra $$$ to get the color matched leather? Has anyone had experience installing one or the other or both?
My shift **** also seems a little loose on the lever. Do these wear out also?
#2
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No exp either way with the boot, but it isn't hard to remove and replace. Of more concern is the "loose" shift ****. More likely, your shift rod is loose, the circlip is missing that holds the shift rod to the shifter, or the bushing at the bottom of the shift lever is toast. None of these are hard to fix. I seriously doubt that your **** is loose.
#3
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I installed the Rennbay boot and have been very happy with it. The only addition I'd recommend to the instructions is the gently hold the shift pattern "cap" on top of the **** while "tucking" the boot in with a flat head screwdriver (again, GENTLY). This way, the cap will hold the boot in place.
This may not make much sense now but I'd imagine you should figure out what I'm talking about when you are there. I'd suspect the other boots would work the same way.
As far as the "color matching" goes, that's up to you. Mine was originally black anyway, so it really didn't need any matching.![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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This may not make much sense now but I'd imagine you should figure out what I'm talking about when you are there. I'd suspect the other boots would work the same way.
As far as the "color matching" goes, that's up to you. Mine was originally black anyway, so it really didn't need any matching.
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#4
Cast Iron Man
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When I pulled the old boot off to check things out I could move the boot aroud a little on the lever. I'm replacing the lever as well as it is quite worn. It just didn't know if the **** it's self had a tendency to get loose.
#6
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AGLA is an EXACT match. All six cars in the family have AGLA's! Go with leather, it's a Porsche........
I wetted (spray bottle) mine only enough to work it over the shift ****. Aligning the stock center cap is a bear, removing the tabs helps and doesn't affect it's staying in the ****.
I wetted (spray bottle) mine only enough to work it over the shift ****. Aligning the stock center cap is a bear, removing the tabs helps and doesn't affect it's staying in the ****.
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#9
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I thought mine was too long too, i kinda forced it farther over the plastic piece because I figured I dind't wnat less of the neck, but i never got it quite right.
#11
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I think the leather "feels" better..IMHO
TIP: When installing, slide the boot over the **** slowly and make sure the seam is in the groove. I took the extra 20 minutes checking after every pull and it came out perfect!
TIP: When installing, slide the boot over the **** slowly and make sure the seam is in the groove. I took the extra 20 minutes checking after every pull and it came out perfect!
#12
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On the Rennbay boot, the boot expands too much after the elastic part. It creates too much of a bulge, and it kind of bunches up just above where it wraps around the frame. If you push it down, then the frame doesn't seat properly. Perhaps a slight modification can be made to the pattern?
I think it needs to be narrower around the 'neck' of the boot as well, so that you have to heat it to stretch it over the ****, makes a good tight fit around the neck and head of the shifter.
I'm still not sure if I should trim my boot or not?... I think I have to, or else it will be too loose around the base of the ****, and too much extra vinyl in the boot.
Oh yeah, Travis. Just had some cold weather here. The vinyl does squeak in the cold, but not as bad as my other car. It makes a rather rude noise going into second, but that's about it. =)
I think it needs to be narrower around the 'neck' of the boot as well, so that you have to heat it to stretch it over the ****, makes a good tight fit around the neck and head of the shifter.
I'm still not sure if I should trim my boot or not?... I think I have to, or else it will be too loose around the base of the ****, and too much extra vinyl in the boot.
Oh yeah, Travis. Just had some cold weather here. The vinyl does squeak in the cold, but not as bad as my other car. It makes a rather rude noise going into second, but that's about it. =)
#13
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No offense meant to Travis, but after seeing both next to each other, the Agla boot is worth the price difference. The Rennbay boot is a fine piece of kit for the price, and for those on a tight budget it is a no-brainer to pick it up as the price is very good, but IMHO if I had the extra money to spend I would upgrade to the Agla.
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Yep, the vinyl boots are what they are.. vinyl. They are a nice boot for those on a budget that cannot afford $50 for a new leather boot. The AGLA boots are a fine product, ours are just an "economy" version.
They evolve a bit before each run depending on feedback like this. The ones we have now are much tighter around the **** and also tighter around the frame. The next run will be a bit looser around the frame, again, based on the feedback I have got from everyone. They all look good and fit, we just try each time to tweek the process to make them a little bit better.
They evolve a bit before each run depending on feedback like this. The ones we have now are much tighter around the **** and also tighter around the frame. The next run will be a bit looser around the frame, again, based on the feedback I have got from everyone. They all look good and fit, we just try each time to tweek the process to make them a little bit better.
#15
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I also have the AGLA boot, and it fits better than stock. There is a lot of good advice on this thread, but I have to ask about the handle pulling off - that isn't right. When you take the handle off the shift lever, is there a metal clip on the rubber part you have to pry off first, or is that piece missing? That is what holds the handle on.
When you replace the lever, get the cup bushing too. It's only about $3, but it'll break when you pulll the old one off. You can get the old one off with a hammer, but the new one must be put on the new lever with a vice - thats easiest. It's about a 15 minute job in all.
When you replace the lever, get the cup bushing too. It's only about $3, but it'll break when you pulll the old one off. You can get the old one off with a hammer, but the new one must be put on the new lever with a vice - thats easiest. It's about a 15 minute job in all.