Zero10

To pull most seals, I use a long thin flat-head screwdriver. I insert it between the seal and whatever is coming through the seal, in this case, the crankshaft. Then with the blade of the screwdriver in about 1/4" to 1/2", and tengential to the curve of the crankshaft, bend it sideways, so the corner of the head of the screwdriver digs into the back of the seal, then continue pushing. This way you are using a different part of the seal for leverage, and only prying against the seal. This will usually deform it to the extent that it can be easily extracted.

If I didn't explain it clearly, perhaps I can draw a picture or something?...

I've never had a seal that didn't come out that way, and I've never scored anything (using that method, I have with other methods!!!)

KuHL 951

I just removed one last weekend with a long narrow blade screwdriver, it worked great. Insert it into that slot shown in the photo. Using a hammer tap the screwdriver in straight back between the block and the lower metal section of the seal until it hits bottom. Lever the screwdriver against the slot and the metal seal will bend some. Work the screwdriver to either side of the bent area . You never have to even touch the crank unless you are real careless. Once a 1" section of the seal is free you can pull the whole thing out with a pick or needle nose. Clean the cavity out well and feel for knicks with a Q-tip (you'll feel them). Smooth any burrs with a fine emory paper is needed.

tomc_85.5_944

Mine had melted a bit and stuck to the mating surface, around the "pry hole". i went at it from the side with much better success. Mine came out looking like it had been run over by a tracked vehicle, it was mangled so bad. Then had to VERY carefully scrape all the stuff that was stuck to the mating surface off. no fun at all..

Stan944

I'll second a seal puller, although it took some work.

dlr944

Stan944 - I plan to try a seal puller tonight. Assume this method worked for you?