shmucklebuckle

So I really need to do my front seals. The belts were done 10k mi ago, so I don't plan on replacing them yet (or anything else in there unless it NEEDS to be replaced, because I'm broke!), but I know I have to take them off to get at my seals, which means I need a tensioning tool to put them back on, and someone who would be willing to help me out (at a minimum, just for the tensioning bit, but if you can, for the whole job). She's leaking pretty bad, and I've heard how nasty the oil is to the belts, so I'd like to get this done really soon, within a week or two prefferably...but I'm the one making the request, so it's on your schedule if you can help. I'm in North Orange County, CA (Fullerton/Brea area) and willing to drive a little ways if I must....the smoke from burning oil on the block scares me though! Or if you know of a place I could rent the tool from at a reasonable price, that would work too. Thanks in advance.

Yabo

If you feel comfortable with it, there is a kriket tool you can use, that you can get at napa, or probably autozone. It is 15 bucks or so. I'm sure someone on the list from CA is closeby and can give you a hand.

joseph mitro

oh, man, too bad the seals didn't get done only 10K ago.

i have the krikit tool for belt tensioning. you can find it on ebay for less than $20 or where devon mentioned. it's not great to use, but works.

shmucklebuckle

I know...I'm not sure what the PO was thinking on this one...OR their so-called "mechanic." I talked to that guy before I bought the car, asked him some questions...scary answers, and some ghetto "repairs" like a bolt through the shift lever instead of just replacing the lever.

Thanks for the suggestions guys...do either of you (or any other readers) know how reliable it is? I know it won't be as accurate as the Porsche tensioner, but should I be very concerned about my belts after using it, or will I just be refused a "purist" titling ?

Yabo

Hold on there... Many people on this mailing list have done the bolt through the shift lever method. It works just as well as a new lever, from what I have gathered.

Dave951M

The Kriket can be as accurate as the 9201 if used correctly. The 9201 isn't accurate if used incorrectly. So the point is that you have to pay attention to the instructions. I have used both and prefer the Kriket mainly because of ease of use. The 9201 has to be calibrated, attached and read. If not done correctly, it can give erroneous readings. The 9201 is about $450 and the Kriket is about $15. Which would you rather risk dropping while working on your car?

In addition to a tensioning tool, you'll need a torque wrench with a range of about 175ft/lbs to properly torque the crank nut. That nut controls the oil pump. If not tight enough, you can't build oil pressure. You'll also need some way of locking the flywheel in place. There have been a number of threads about how to do this, but I'd recommend getting the real deal here. It's easy to employ and not too expensive.

Good luck on the reseal job. While you're in there, check the sleeves on the balance and cam shafts. Make sure to replace the mylar seals there as well. Note that seals are directional, meaning they might fit, but the shaft being sealed may rotate in the opposite direction the seal was meant to seal. In short, you'll manufacture a major oil leak. It's not unheard of to have incorrect seals in a seal kit. Check them before disassembling the car. HTH

josephsc

I have a P9201 and I'm sort of local -- just on the opposite end of the greater LA area. I also have other tools if you need them too. But I'll only lend to Rennlist members -- time to join up!

PM me w/ your e-mail and phone numbers and we'll talk.

shmucklebuckle

hahaha I guess there's a price to pay for everything isn't there! I just might have to do that.

Yah, it did the job, but it had alot of play to it... Maybe it was just his method. Anyways, my new shift lever did take out alot of front to back play. Not much side to side, but it does feel much more firm with each shift than it did before. I'm sure a *qualified* mech could do a much better job

I could buy the tools for it, but I'm broke, so josephsc's offer (and experience) is pretty appealing...I'll send you a PM joe.

Dave: thanks for the great advice man. I would definately go that route if I had a 175ft/lb wrench...mine only goes to 150 thanks again for clearing up the safety/tech issue re: the kriket! I think I'll go that way 20k from now.

Dave951M

If you have to do the bolt thing, get a Grade 8 shoulder bolt. The shoulder will act as the missing post and the lack of threads won't mill out your shift rod.

Get the job done, there should be some Rennlisters nearby to help out.

Serge944

The p9201 is a scam. The kriket will get the job done...as well as the finger method. Good luck...the belt job is very simple and straight forward.

josephsc

Once you get used to it, Kriket and the finger method is just as good -- but definitely takes some getting used to. P9201 is good for a peace of mind.

But I agree -- definitely a scam, good thing I stole it for only $150

Serge944

Lol, guess im an natural (or an idiot)...i got "used to it" first time pulling the belt covers.

shmucklebuckle

Hmm...sounds pretty do-able now Is the flywheel lock a pretty generic automotive tool? Or is it a *Porsche" flywheel lock ? I think I should get this done monday. I'm an in-home PC tech, so I'm picking up and dropping off PC's all the time, and really need to get my car back in shape...

Joe: If I can't locate tools (the cheap ones ), I'll let you know. I still appreciate the offer, very kind of ya. Thx guys.

dualblade

a bolt and a rollerblade bearing

i win!

Yabo

Sweet picture. Now I know what it'll look like when I take it apart.