What oil was in the car befor the replacement?

If it's normal oil and the engine have over 60K+miles on it, it's NOT recommended to switch to synthetic at this point...........i know!

 

Joe, hell yea man. Not many people are familiar with Hazet tools. They are a little pricey, but not too bad for what you can get,really.

If you guys are wondering what the hell we're talking about, go to http://www.samstagsales.com/ and look at Hazet's line. Good stuff

 

I am not sure what oil was in there before. I would guess not synthetic as it was not specified in the POs service records. I have heard that synthetic might leak where the dino didn't so I am keeping an eye on it. Is there something else that I should know?

 

Synthetic oil only leaks if you have a leaky engine.

 

yep, 20 bucks well spent!

 

OK

You got me nervous.

The car is running like a dream but am I about to have a problem???

Should I drain the synthetic and replace with dino?

I do not wish to anger the Porsche Gods.

 

Never. Go with synthetic. Better to have a few drips here or there on synthetic to tell you which seals need to be replaced than to sacrifice your engine internals on inferior dino oil, IMO.

 

Jeff,
Thanks for that advice.
Your avatar looks like my car now.
I just finished waxing with Meguiars Gold Class.
I was happy with the results.
It smells nice too.
More than 24 hours and no sign of an oil leak.
Knock on wood

 

Hosrom

What problem did you have?

 

I agree with Jeff.

And I agree with what Peckster wrote. Synthetic doesn't make your engine leak, it only reveals leaks that are there or about to be there. It doesn't destroy seals or gaskets, it simply finds its way through existing flaws more easily.

 

Removing the ps system helps with the oil changed manual rack all the way haha... Anyways synthetic oils are a lot better then dino and it won't cause leaks. You would have been leaking oil with dino sooner or later. Like everyone said it just shows where the leaks already starting to form.

 

Toddy,

Go to Pep Boys and get a oil filter cap wrench for about $6. It has a 3/8" square hole. Slip a long 3/8" extension in there and a ratchet on the other end. Fit the cap wrench on the filter, and twist it off. The cap wrench fits well enough that you should be able to lots of torque on the filter.

Good Luck.

 

I hope to finally get the mechanical aspects of the car finished soon (God willing, the boost problem will be fixed tonight, then it's the a/c compressor clutch next weekend hopefully). There's a hot date between me & the car with some serious cleaning compounds / wax. I LOVE the way that car in the avitar looks (it's my windows desktop too - I like it that much!) and can only hope I get my car looking that good!

 

^^^
I finally caved and bought one after helping a couple of friends change their oil. Seems like before people sell these cars, they decide to tighten the snot out of the oil filter.

As was stated earlier, synthetic does NOT make an engine leak. If it leaks when you switch, then you already had a leak.
It's definately worth changing a seal or two (which you would have to change anyways) to help enhance engine life.

FWIW, A friend of mine runs a trucking business. He has a Ford E350 cube van, I believe it's a 1998. It has 650,000 km's on it, ran Mobil 1 Synthetic it's entire life, and is still within compression specs for a new engine. At the low end, but still within new specs.
No lie. That was what orginally sold me on synthetic oils.

 

Yep. I've read similar reports of IRON block engines (not even alusil - which is better design) lasting 300,000+ miles with no appreciable internal wear. That's truly amazing. I already run Mobil-1; first chance I get (funds permitting) I'm going permanently to Amsoil.