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Race seats, harness, and stock seatbelts..

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Old 09-17-2004, 04:38 PM
  #31  
Jason_86_951
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Originally Posted by Skip
Will do - hopefully tonight.

By "I will then loop the shoulder harness to my redline rollbar" do you mean you will attach directly to it? If so, that would be correct. No need to loop them over the redline bar and down to the rear seat belts - it's Tonka tough!
Yes I will attach it directly. Your right that thing is a stout as can be, stronger than the frame itself.
Thanks,
Jason
Old 09-17-2004, 05:03 PM
  #32  
Scott at Team Harco
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Originally Posted by Jason_86_951
So my final parts list, please correct me if I'm missing something:
2- G-force 5-point 3" camlock harness
6- snap rings
6- eyebolts 20mm
4- backing plates

I plan to bolt thru the tunnel/floor for the inside mount (shared by lapbelt and stock seatbelt) and substrap. I will use the stock outside mounting hole with an eyebolt to replace the existing bolt for the other side of the lap belt and stock seat belt. I will then loop the shoulder harness to my redline rollbar.
Am I missing anything??

Skip,
Could you take a picture of your mounting points and post it?
Thanks,
Jason
I guess I don't see how you need 6 eyebolts. You will have one on either side of each front seat - yes? That makes 4. Are you planning to clip the anti-submarine belts to the inboard eye bolts? That does total 6 (clip ends), if that is the plan. You should be wrapping the shoulder straps around the harness bar and bringing the loose ends through slotted plates (you should put four of these on your shopping list). Make sure you have nuts and lock washers (or lock nuts) to go with your eyebolts.

You should be able to locate a diagram on how to properly route the ends of the harness on various websites. If you are unable to find this info - start a new thread or PM me and I will find a diagram in one of my rule books (or take a photo of the recommended method).
Old 09-17-2004, 05:22 PM
  #33  
Jason_86_951
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Scott,
Actually I've revised my approach.
I plan on just doing a bolt-in setup. My car is garaged 95% of the time so I'm not to concerned with the sunlight issue. I'll just tuck them under the seat when not in use.
I ordered (2) of the G-Force 6-point camlock harnesses. I'll bolt the (2) substraps to the front side rail to slider bolts. I'll use the stock outer mount for one side of the lap belt, and will fab a bracket like the #24 one in Sam's picture for the other side. Then of course I will connect to the Redline bar with the shoulder straps.
I would love to see some pictures of how you did it though.
Thanks,
Jason
Old 09-17-2004, 09:08 PM
  #34  
Geo
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Actually, the two sub straps should bolt back near the lap belts. With a race seat and 6-point harness, the sub straps pass through the same hole in the seat as the lap belts.
Old 09-17-2004, 09:41 PM
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Scott at Team Harco
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Originally Posted by Geo
Actually, the two sub straps should bolt back near the lap belts. With a race seat and 6-point harness, the sub straps pass through the same hole in the seat as the lap belts.
True. And it should become obvious that you want to sit on the anti-submarine belt(s) if they are attached at the same anchor points as the lap belts.

Attached are three pictures.
Won) Is the picture of my shoulder harnesses in their normal state - fully tightened, and wrapped around the bar just behind the seat(s). Note the seat is fully forward for photo purposes. The navigator's seat does not move so it would have been nearly impossible to attempt this on that side of the car.

Too) This picture shows the outboard shoulder strap loosened slightly to show how it goes through the slotted plate.

Tree) This is a shot from the ProRally rule book. These diagrams are useful for most any harness configuration regardless of the activity in which you plan to participate (even driving on the street). The lower left diagram is the one that applies specifically to the shoulder harness wrap around a bar.
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Old 09-17-2004, 11:00 PM
  #36  
Zero10
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Hehe, I see the Amsoil oil in the second pic! Good choice =)
Anyhoo, this is a little OT, but are there any bars to mount your harness to that you can install without drilling more holes in the car?
I'm thinking of installing a 5 point harness and some racing seats in my car. The stock seats/seatbelt just don't cut it in autox.
Old 09-18-2004, 10:48 AM
  #37  
Skip Wolfe
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Originally Posted by Zero10
...but are there any bars to mount your harness to that you can install without drilling more holes in the car? I'm thinking of installing a 5 point harness and some racing seats in my car...
The Redline rollbar that is being refered to in the previous post is such a bar. Mounts on the rear lap and shoulder seatbelt points. Nice quality bar, but they take 3-4 months to get, so you can't be in a hurry.
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Old 09-20-2004, 10:14 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Zero10
Hehe, I see the Amsoil oil in the second pic! Good choice =)
Anyhoo, this is a little OT, but are there any bars to mount your harness to that you can install without drilling more holes in the car?
I'm thinking of installing a 5 point harness and some racing seats in my car. The stock seats/seatbelt just don't cut it in autox.
That's interesting that you should spot that. I was thinking, when I reviewed the shot, someone might comment on it. It's kind of funny, but I also notice odd things in pictures too.

I'll try to post an example after I swipe it from the "grid girls" thread...
Old 09-20-2004, 10:18 AM
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Ok - here is a good example of finding odd things in pictures. Most guys are going to say: what shoes? She was wearing shoes?
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Old 09-22-2004, 11:52 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Geo
Actually, the two sub straps should bolt back near the lap belts. With a race seat and 6-point harness, the sub straps pass through the same hole in the seat as the lap belts.
Well I've got my (2) Evo2's and (2) G-force 6-point harnesses. Why would you bypass the substrap hole in the seat, and use the lapbelt holes?

Getting everything mocked up in the living room, the front (2) side bracket to slider bolts line right up with the substrap hole. If I mounted them to those it would almost be a straight shot up thru the substrap hole. Would it be better to mount them to the rear (2) side bracket to slider bolts?



A little experiment, why I don't like eyebolts thru the sheetmetal:
I did a little testing on my stripped chassis before the wrecker hauled it off.
I took a lifting strap and bolted it into a seat mounting point. I then took our trusty forklift and attemped to pickup part of the car by that one point. It held.
I then used a 3" washer backed eye-bolt and bolted it thru the floor near the mounting point. It bent the **** out of the sheetmetal and almost tore thru.

Another point, I wanted to remove the one good powered seat out of my front clip. I couldn't get the motor to work so I could get to the allen bolts, so I grabbed the cutting wheel. The floor under the seats is double walled, but the areas around the mounting points are re-enforced. The cutting wheel cut thru the bare sheetmetal like butter, but the area's around the mounting points were a bitch to cut thru.

Anyways I trust the mounting points alot more than the sheetmetal. But, I suppose if you used bar-stock and spanned the eyebolts instead of washers/plates you would be fine.
Old 09-23-2004, 01:24 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Jason_86_951
Well I've got my (2) Evo2's and (2) G-force 6-point harnesses. Why would you bypass the substrap hole in the seat, and use the lapbelt holes?
Because that is the way they are designed to work. I'm not trying to be a smart@$$ about it. To run them through the substrap hole would be to mount and use a safety item incorrectly.

I'm just guessing (and this just came to me) that by passing them through the lap belt holes they dramatically reduce any possible side/side motion in a crash while a single strap through the sub hole in the seat (or both through) would allow your body a great deal of room to move around in a crash.
Old 09-23-2004, 01:34 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Scott at Team Harco
Ok - here is a good example of finding odd things in pictures. Most guys are going to say: what shoes? She was wearing shoes?
Actually I was thinking more along the lines of "I wish she would hold my helmet"
Old 09-23-2004, 01:47 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Geo
Because that is the way they are designed to work. I'm not trying to be a smart@$$ about it. To run them through the substrap hole would be to mount and use a safety item incorrectly.

I'm just guessing (and this just came to me) that by passing them through the lap belt holes they dramatically reduce any possible side/side motion in a crash while a single strap through the sub hole in the seat (or both through) would allow your body a great deal of room to move around in a crash.
George,
I'm just trying to sort out all the conflicting info I've found, I am thankful for your comments. Is the hole in the seat, then only for a 5 point style substrap?
I've also read that in some rulebooks that you can't mount more than one belt per mount. So where do you mount it? I've seen the BK substrap mounting bar that goes under the seat, this device makes you bring it up thru the hole too.

I'm completely confused.
Old 09-23-2004, 02:07 AM
  #44  
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I'm confused as well. I've seen the new 7-point systems and wondered what was going on with this. Maybe my interpretation is incorrect. Here's some pics and info from Simpson regarding 6 point and 5 point harnesses in the upright seating position:

Upright (Sports Car):
5-Point Anti-Submarine Belt should be anchored on or slightly behind the Chest Line1.

6-Point Anti-Submarine Belt should be anchored at an angle of 20 degrees behind the Chest Line as measured from the intersection of the Chest Line and the lap belt buckle. Mounts should be approximately 8 to 12 inches apart (approximately located under each hip and as close to the body as possible). Two routing holes in the seat or a special seat mount may be required. Using the 5-Point hole detracts from the effectiveness of this system.

Reclined (Formula Car):
5-Point Anti-Submarine Belt should be anchored approximately 10 degrees behind the Chest Line as measured from the intersection of the Chest Line and the lap belt buckle.

6-Point Anti-Submarine Belt should be anchored at an angle of 10 degrees behind the Chest Line |as measured from the intersection of the Chest Line and the lap belt buckle. Mounts should be approximately 8 to 12 inches apart (approximately located under each leg, even with the pelvis).
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Old 09-23-2004, 09:01 AM
  #45  
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My experience with 6 point systems is that you want to sit on the 2 anti-sub straps and anchor them at or near the anchor points for the lap belts. It should be possible to use the same anchor point as the angles the lap belts take are about 45 degrees off from the angle the anti-sub belts will want to take. There is less likelihood of the belts getting pinched by the brackets of the respective partner belt.

Last year at the (Detroit Section) SAE Student Autocross - we had Tom Gideon, manager of GM Racing Safety speak. He presented a very enlightening film on racer safety in impacts. In addition to the HANS device, head supports integral with the seat, internal nets (head high) and window nets - he showed that 6 point harnesses where the driver sits on the sub-belts provided the greatest measure of safety.

Many of you may have seen the show on racing safety last night on Modern Marvels (History channel). Some of that same film was presented at our SAE program.

I don't want to dispute what Simpson is saying for their safety equipment - but based on the information that I have accumulated over the years - I want my sub-belts attached at the same place as my lap belts and running under my legs.


Oh Manning - it's not a purple helmet, is it? A la the Vikings or Northwestern...


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