Heat wont turn off!
09-09-2004, 11:55 PM
#3
Racer
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Edmonton, Alberta Canada
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i wish i had your problem.. mine is barely on and it sucks, wanna trade? 
it might be the "slider".. it's a pain but pull that part of the dash apart and make sure it's actually moving and closing/opening the vent.. and not just sliding freely.. had the same problem on a couple of my older cars
it might be the "slider".. it's a pain but pull that part of the dash apart and make sure it's actually moving and closing/opening the vent.. and not just sliding freely.. had the same problem on a couple of my older cars
09-10-2004, 01:25 AM
#6
Race Car
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mine is doing it too....and I have replaced the hanging rod thing and the clip, and replaced teh vacum line adn bullet shaped thing besiide teh battery, so I don't know what else to do...it just constantly blows hot air...
09-10-2004, 08:48 AM
#7
Burning Brakes
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For the early type, the cable just might have called it a day.
Blood:
You might want to try re-ajusting the rod:
- Cold engine, contact on but no start, turn **** to cold, switch off contact.
- undo metal clip and flip rod out of plastic joint
- push rod up to maximum, re-insert and place metal clip.
TESTRUN (That is the biggest fun of working on these cars, they need a lot of test runs).
If no good, check heater valve
Blood:
You might want to try re-ajusting the rod:
- Cold engine, contact on but no start, turn **** to cold, switch off contact.
- undo metal clip and flip rod out of plastic joint
- push rod up to maximum, re-insert and place metal clip.
TESTRUN (That is the biggest fun of working on these cars, they need a lot of test runs).
If no good, check heater valve
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09-10-2004, 03:02 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
944CS,
The early cars do not have the 'heater clip' problem that the later cars have.
There is a plastic valve located at the top rear of the engine. It connects to a pipe coming out the top of the head and connects through the valve, then to a line that runs into the engine compartment. The valve is controlled through a cable that runs into the console. Unfortunately with age, the cable can't completely close the valve anymore. The valve itself could also be bad.
To turn it off now, stand on the passenger side of the car, find the valve(with your left hand) and pull the white plastic arm all the way towards yourself(and the passenger side of the car). That should close the valve and prevent the coolant from flowing.
The fix I settled on was to do this in the beginning of the summer and never touch the heater controls. When winter comes, it doesn't matter that the heat is on all the time. Eventually I bypassed the heater core all together. This can be done by getting a section of heater hose and running it from the upper outlet atop the head directly to the return line that runs under the cam tower. I only did this because it was a track car, but it's an option as well.
The early cars do not have the 'heater clip' problem that the later cars have.
There is a plastic valve located at the top rear of the engine. It connects to a pipe coming out the top of the head and connects through the valve, then to a line that runs into the engine compartment. The valve is controlled through a cable that runs into the console. Unfortunately with age, the cable can't completely close the valve anymore. The valve itself could also be bad.
To turn it off now, stand on the passenger side of the car, find the valve(with your left hand) and pull the white plastic arm all the way towards yourself(and the passenger side of the car). That should close the valve and prevent the coolant from flowing.
The fix I settled on was to do this in the beginning of the summer and never touch the heater controls. When winter comes, it doesn't matter that the heat is on all the time. Eventually I bypassed the heater core all together. This can be done by getting a section of heater hose and running it from the upper outlet atop the head directly to the return line that runs under the cam tower. I only did this because it was a track car, but it's an option as well.
09-10-2004, 03:56 PM
#9
It's probably the same problem as mine has had for 2 years now: There is a slider cable attached to teh slide switch. THis cable has a clip than holds the outer portion of the slide cable still. The clip right behind the fan switch may have a broken mount.
09-10-2004, 04:13 PM
#10
Drifting
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thanks guys for all the help i'll let u know if its the valve...the cable is still ok....when i move the **** back and forth the cable moves but not enough to move the valve in the engine compartment so i guess i did something to make distance between the **** and valve shorter but i dont know what...i've had the dash apart a couple of times to put in my cd player and air/fuel gauge and change some bulbs
09-10-2004, 05:23 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
Ryan, mine has the exact same problem. Basically, the outer portion of the cable is not held firmly. So when you move the lever, it moves the entire cable, not just the inside portion of the cable. This limits the travel on the cable, and subsequently on the valve. The cable just can't move it enough to close it. Try the hand method just to get the heat off. Then you can look into fixing it.