Vibration at 4000 RPM
#17
Drifting
I agree- balance shaft belt misalignments of a tooth, are often assumed as "good enuff, fer me" ....and somewhat accepted. I paid a Porsche specialist just to align my engine's timing belt/balance shaft. I know how to do this myself- and has many to my credit....but still not confident enough to charge money, and offer warranties for doing it. Paying somebody who has the "TOOLS" is good insurance. My recent rebuild experienced upper-rpm sensory vibration, because the idler roller of the balance belt co-tensioned the belt itself, resulting in noise, vibration and eventual failure.
#18
UAE Rennlist Ambassador
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Luis: Nope, it was running synthetic ALL it's life
BUT, switched from 15w~50 to 0w~40 (the only thing Mobil 1 has for me)
But i was using that oil for over 4+ months, this leak is quite recent.
Anyway, REMOVE THE BELTS AND REINSTALL THEM
BUT, switched from 15w~50 to 0w~40 (the only thing Mobil 1 has for me)
But i was using that oil for over 4+ months, this leak is quite recent.
Anyway, REMOVE THE BELTS AND REINSTALL THEM
#19
Race Director
He's got an '84 944, so the U and O marks don't have to be swapped like on the later cars. Also you want to check for the notch on the rear of the balance-shaft pulleys to line up with the pointers on the belt-covers. That way, even if the front sprocket-covers are off, you can still be assured that the pulleys and balance-shafts are oriented correctly.
#21
Race Director
Originally Posted by Danno
He's got an '84 944, so the U and O marks don't have to be swapped like on the later cars. Also you want to check for the notch on the rear of the balance-shaft pulleys to line up with the pointers on the belt-covers. That way, even if the front sprocket-covers are off, you can still be assured that the pulleys and balance-shafts are oriented correctly.
Seems really weird.
How can the balance shafts be off by 180 when everything lines up? I'm not challenging anyone, but would like to understand before we pull it aparat again.
#22
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You don't have to pull it apart to verify timing marks. Line the engine up TDC, take the covers off and look closely at the notches on the bal shaft sprockets. I have seen this exact problem and it was the bal shafts being off.
#23
Burning Brakes
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I'm for trying the dowel in the #1 cylinder to make sure we are on the correct TDC.
From some other post I've read, and with the dificulty in seeing the "OT" mark on the flywheel, I think that is going to put us more in the ballpark for getting it set right.
Here is link to a thread on Pelican. He is having trouble locating the "OT" mark as well. Several good explanations on being 180 degrees out.
TIMING THREAD ON PELICAN
If we are confusing the same "OT" mark as whoever did the work, that is why it is "looking" correct. Did that make sense ???
From some other post I've read, and with the dificulty in seeing the "OT" mark on the flywheel, I think that is going to put us more in the ballpark for getting it set right.
Here is link to a thread on Pelican. He is having trouble locating the "OT" mark as well. Several good explanations on being 180 degrees out.
TIMING THREAD ON PELICAN
If we are confusing the same "OT" mark as whoever did the work, that is why it is "looking" correct. Did that make sense ???
#24
Race Director
Originally Posted by Dave951M
You don't have to pull it apart to verify timing marks. Line the engine up TDC, take the covers off and look closely at the notches on the bal shaft sprockets. I have seen this exact problem and it was the bal shafts being off.
So are you saying all the marks lined up with the engine at TDC the shafts can still be off by 180*? If so, how? Again, I'm just trying to figure out how this can happen before we go back in.
#25
Race Director
Originally Posted by goingboeing737
I'm for trying the dowel in the #1 cylinder to make sure we are on the correct TDC.
From some other post I've read, and with the dificulty in seeing the "OT" mark on the flywheel, I think that is going to put us more in the ballpark for getting it set right.
Here is link to a thread on Pelican. He is having trouble locating the "OT" mark as well. Several good explanations on being 180 degrees out.
TIMING THREAD ON PELICAN
If we are confusing the same "OT" mark as whoever did the work, that is why it is "looking" correct. Did that make sense ???
From some other post I've read, and with the dificulty in seeing the "OT" mark on the flywheel, I think that is going to put us more in the ballpark for getting it set right.
Here is link to a thread on Pelican. He is having trouble locating the "OT" mark as well. Several good explanations on being 180 degrees out.
TIMING THREAD ON PELICAN
If we are confusing the same "OT" mark as whoever did the work, that is why it is "looking" correct. Did that make sense ???
#26
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They can be off, at least in a post 85.5 car. We had this problem with my brother's car and you couldn't tell it until we removed the bolt on the sprocket faces. It wan't a huge production to get to, just set TDC, remove the front cover, remove the bolt on the face of the bal shaft sprocket. There's a thin metal piece that helps keep the bal shaft belt located on the sprocket. On the later cars, it's possible to mistime the bal shafts because of the way these are made. I was a skeptic too, until convincing him to take off the bolts and checking against the manual and the sprocket marks.
#27
Burning Brakes
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So, if they replaced the sprokets, THEY could be mounted 180 degrees out?
Am I following this at all ?
And, this is on a 1984.
Am I following this at all ?
And, this is on a 1984.
#29
Race Director
Originally Posted by Dave951M
I was a skeptic too, until convincing him to take off the bolts and checking against the manual and the sprocket marks.
#30