KenC

I am going to be trailering my 944 for aprox a 4 hour trip. My trailer is a dual axle 7X16ft with 1 1/2ft tall side rail. I am replacing all the wood (2X6X16's) with new treated and taking a spare, greasing the bearings, taking tire iron and jack. But have the following questions still:

1) What's the best way to secure the auto to the trailer?

2) The trailer has new 2X6X16 boards but doesn't seem like it could hold the weight. Has 7 cross members under the trailer boards. Thinking of placing thick plywood on top to disburse the weight? Or any inexspensive ideas?

3) How do I get the car onto the trailer. By backing it up to the ditch at my house I still have aprox. 1 1/2ft left of height to overcome. Plus don't know what to exspect at the arrival point for clearances. It has to be a long (like 7ft) gradual incline / ramp or the lower fairing catches (ie. oil change ramps do not work) I guess I'll get one specifically made by the trailer co. Or anybody got any ideas?.

KenC

Granite 944

I've trailered a few 944 parts cars I've purchased. I've found that the ramps were to short and steep on the rental trailers I've used also. I got around that by just using wooden blocks at the base of the ramp to get the wheels to come up fast enough to clear that chin spoiler.

To secure it to the trailer, I've used a couple of methods, but now prefer the method of driving the car forward up the trailer, use doubled up nylon straps through the wheel spokes straight forward and attach to trailer with chain, adjusting for the length from trailer to straps. For the back, I've used short 1/4" or 5/16" cable thru the hole in bottom of bumper to a chain binder, then to chain going to trailer at the very corners at the back end of trailer. Make all the hookups first (every thing attached to car/trailer), let the car come back real snugly against the front straps, then adjust rear chain binders to pull/squat the car back and down about an inch or so. Set e-brake/put in first gear. Drive off, and stop and check the hookups for loosening within about 15-20 miles and re-adjust if neccessary, and check again at any stop you make. Note that you don't want to put a whole lot of pull on those front wheels, or you could end up distorting them. If necessary, set brake and put into gear after a little pull back on rear hookup, and then finish squating car down in the back.

The trailer boards sound sturdy enough to me, with all the crossmembers and new wood. I might consider using wider wood, maybe 2 x 8's or 10's? I doubt you need to do more to it, but of course, I haven't seen it either.
You say the side rails are 1 1/2' tall. I'm of course, also assuming their far enough back from side of car when on the trailer, that you can get in and out of the doors.

A picture of the trailer would kinda help out here also, so one can see what you have to hook to, the ramps, and all? There are so many different types of trailers, its kinda hard to know without actually seeing it. The trailer I always rent, is called an "equiptment" trailer, so it has heavier wood on it with slightly longer ramps on it, and real good attach points on the ends and sides of it, using chain or the ends of chain binders.

Disclaimer: no expert here, every setup/trailer is different, use this advice at your own risk.

Peckster

Was it used to transport cars before with that size lumber? If it was, your question is answered.