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Hand brake adjustment

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Old 08-14-2004, 08:34 AM
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loonyjuice
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Default Hand brake adjustment

My S2 failed it's MOT on the handbrake not working efficiently! How do I go about adjusting it. I'm guessing there are shoes in the drum of the rear disc, and I'm hoping it's not going to be a pain in the backside to rectify.

Any ideas?
Old 08-14-2004, 09:58 AM
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aribop
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I was having to pull mine way high to get it to hold. I took off the rear discs and the shoes for the emergency brakes then are accessible. I adjusted them so the disc would just slip over them. Now the handbrake clicks 3 times and it is fully engaged.
Old 08-14-2004, 11:49 AM
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83na944
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The Haynes manual has a good section about this. It's not a lot of trouble and the brakes work well when properly adjusted.
Old 08-14-2004, 02:27 PM
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bigal13
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hi

this is taken from http://www.clarks-garage.com/


Tools


Screwdriver
Jack Stands
Checking Parking Brake Adjustment


Place the vehicle on jackstands.
Raise the parking brake lever two clicks.
Attempt to turn the rear wheels by hand.
You should be able to turn the wheel but, it will be difficult.
If you can turn the wheel easily OR if the wheel can not be turned at all, the parking brake needs adjustment.
Adjusting the Parking Brake

Release the parking brake lever and verify that the rear wheel can be turned easily by hand.
Insert a screwdriver into the hole in the rear wheel hub and turn the brake adjuster until the rear wheel can not be turned.
Next turn the adjuster in the opposite direction until the wheel can be turned easily.
Lift the carpet next to the parking brake lever to expose the adjusting nuts on the end of the parking brake cable.
Loosen the locknut at the bottom of the adjusting yoke and adjust the two nuts on either side of the adjusting yoke collar until the rear wheel can be barely turned with the parking brake lever raised two clicks.
Ensure both adjusting nuts are tightened against the adjusting yoke collar and tighten the locknut against the rear adjusting nut.
Replace the carpeting around the parking brake lever.
Old 08-14-2004, 02:30 PM
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theedge
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A note for adjusting the shoes...

In the rotor center portion theres a hole. Rotate the rotor so that the hole is at the 12 o-clock position. Use a flashlight to look for the adjuster when its at the 12 oclock spot. The adjuster looks exactly like a small gear, thats what you want to turn using the screwdriver blade.
Old 08-14-2004, 02:33 PM
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FSAEracer03
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If you want to ghetto fix it in a jiff, adjust the cable... not the CORRECT way... but the fastest if it fails inspection (or whatever you were talking about)
Old 08-14-2004, 02:47 PM
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BruceWard
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I suggest adjusting through the rotors rather than the cable. I tried the cable method and ended up having to remove the drivers seat because the nuts that adjust the cable were stuck. I got things apart but could not complete the adjustment and put it back together without removing the seat.

Later when I rebuilt the calipers and replaced pads and rotors I adjusted the parking brake through the rotors which was much easier!
Old 08-14-2004, 02:53 PM
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FSAEracer03
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As to not give the wrong impression... yes, you should adjust through the rotors. The proper method is to adjust through the rotors then adjust the cable if necessary.
Old 08-14-2004, 02:55 PM
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bigal13
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hi

you may also find out the problem i had is that the adjustment at the rotors is fine but the handbrake still does not work and there is no adjustment left at the handbrake its self so then you will have to fit new cables there are 2 cables one long and one short

my biggest problem was that both cables were original and had stretched and also seized so the handbrake did not work and failed the m.o.t
Old 08-14-2004, 04:28 PM
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jason952
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Any ideas about this, I just replaced my park brake shoes and readjusted them...now the !! ABS !! lights are on, what should I check first?

Jason
Old 08-15-2004, 01:53 PM
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loonyjuice
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I tried and I tried some more and I couldn't get the adjusting gear to turn! I then attempted to remove the disc, which involves removing the calliper, but the nuts for it were too tight and I couldn't get leverage with the car on the floor. I need it up on a ramp.

I knew this was gonna be a pain in the backside!
Old 08-15-2004, 02:08 PM
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bigal13
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Originally Posted by loonyjuice
I tried and I tried some more and I couldn't get the adjusting gear to turn! I then attempted to remove the disc, which involves removing the calliper, but the nuts for it were too tight and I couldn't get leverage with the car on the floor. I need it up on a ramp.

I knew this was gonna be a pain in the backside!
hi

i had the same problem extra leverage required it took a extra 6 foor bar in my case or you colud try heating them up
Old 08-15-2004, 04:24 PM
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loonyjuice
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Well, since the last message, I must have spent two hours cursing at that tight nut, and I got it free! However, after stripping the brakes, removing the disc and fiddling with the damn adjustment screw (having also broken one of the teeth off in the process), it still hasn't made much difference! I need to adjust the cable too, methinks. However, I'm not a mechanic and I've had enough for tonight.
Old 08-15-2004, 06:48 PM
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BruceWard
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Sounds like it may be time to replace the pads or rotors.
Old 08-16-2004, 12:00 PM
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bigal13
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its not the pads you have to change its the handbrake shoes inside the rotors might need changing but if the handbrake cable is seized or in need of adjusting then try that first

for all the handbrake is used in these cars i dont think the shoes will be worn out


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