Got the Engine apart with Pics - Any Ideas?
#16
Drifting
Good luck with your rebuild. After an entire year without the Porsche 944 NA- I started the fully rebuilt/ported/polished/internally-balanced 1983 motor, with rare forged KS pistons/conrods(Avatar) and the motor sounds so smooth, so good....its better than new! Unfortunately, I am now (motor still has 0 miles) dealing with a pesky oil leak, because I may have scrimped on a rebuild procedure somewhere. However, every mechanical/electrical wear item was replaced, with factory Porsche OEM parts ($1300 alone), so the leak may be caused by possible torque values of the new oil pump itself. We'll see....
Zach
Zach
#18
Race Car
josh B - is that engine even salvageable with all that metal everywhere? looks scary.
zach - i am rebuilding my engine right now and will replace every possible part that can wear out. i'm glad to know what your cost was because that will give me an estimate on cost for my parts. does that include clutch and belts/rollers/water pump? what horsepower and torque numbers do you predict? i plan on replacing all the bearings (I spun #2 - will post pics when they get digitalized), all the seals and gaskets, clutch, belts, rollers, and fuel injectors.
jake - your head looks great (the 944 head, that is). stoid did a nice job. i took out the crankshaft last night, so everything is completely disassembled and ready for the machine shop. did you have your block and/or crank machined at all? what was the cost for the head and what was involved. i spun a rod bearing so at the least all the internal components will have to be cleaned of metal shavings (just a few visible flakes, really), and machined to correct tolerances. i wonder what the cost will be for this.....
zach - i am rebuilding my engine right now and will replace every possible part that can wear out. i'm glad to know what your cost was because that will give me an estimate on cost for my parts. does that include clutch and belts/rollers/water pump? what horsepower and torque numbers do you predict? i plan on replacing all the bearings (I spun #2 - will post pics when they get digitalized), all the seals and gaskets, clutch, belts, rollers, and fuel injectors.
jake - your head looks great (the 944 head, that is). stoid did a nice job. i took out the crankshaft last night, so everything is completely disassembled and ready for the machine shop. did you have your block and/or crank machined at all? what was the cost for the head and what was involved. i spun a rod bearing so at the least all the internal components will have to be cleaned of metal shavings (just a few visible flakes, really), and machined to correct tolerances. i wonder what the cost will be for this.....
#19
I am hoping for your sake that the stuff on the cyclinders is not metal. You need to collect a sample from each cyclinder and bag it. It may come in handy in the future as you progress through the engine.
Might want to rotate the engine and look at the cyclinder walls. It is funny that the stuff is on top of the pistons on different cyclinders. If it was a Turbo I would think you lost the Turbo compressor wheel.
Might want to rotate the engine and look at the cyclinder walls. It is funny that the stuff is on top of the pistons on different cyclinders. If it was a Turbo I would think you lost the Turbo compressor wheel.
#20
That block is a boat anchor if those are metal shavings. By the time you have it bored larg enough and buy factory +1/+2 oversized pistons it will not be worth while to use. I recommend you junk it and buy another. To be honest it will be MUCH cheaper that route. Part out whatever is usable on that block (which is not going to be much) and move on.
It appears this sucker overheated, the rings expanded and scored #4 all the way up. At that point the piston did not come down. Are you able to even turn the motor?
You could always sleeve it go to 2.8L, would be a great upgrade, but again, the least expensive route would be to buy another block and move on.
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It appears this sucker overheated, the rings expanded and scored #4 all the way up. At that point the piston did not come down. Are you able to even turn the motor?
You could always sleeve it go to 2.8L, would be a great upgrade, but again, the least expensive route would be to buy another block and move on.
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#21
Campeck Rulez
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Originally Posted by azndrvr447
i'm so scared that my engine is going to have leaks when i finally put her back in and start her up...please pray for me everyone
no matter how much we pray it WILL have leaks.....It's like a curse....
you can rebuild the engine PERFECTLY and it will have leaks.
every dog has its day...every engine has its leaks.
my engine leaks oil all over the headers and spills smoke out of the hood every morning....blah.
#22
Addict
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Thread Starter
I was able to turn the motor by hand and #4 looks really bad. Deep gouges and the metal from them is mushed up at the top of the cylinder.....
#23
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by Josh B
I was able to turn the motor by hand and #4 looks really bad. Deep gouges and the metal from them is mushed up at the top of the cylinder.....
Matt H is probably right...better start looking for a block. On the bright side, the block itself isn't too expensive.
Good luck!
#25
Race Car
oh ****, that looks really bad. makes me cringe
#26
Campeck Rulez
Rennlist Member
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hooooooolly molly!!! thats crazy.......so...you going to part that sucker out? *wink* *wink*
or you could always bore it and stroke it to 3.4 Liters....mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
#27
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by azndrvr447
holy crap man those look dirtier than mine were...
but hey...here's what my head looks like NOW (after a $1300 head job with all new valves) ..i got it back wednesday from stoid racing here in dallas...they built the two fastest cars at sport compact car's ultimate street challenge with their mr2 and their sleeper miata
www.stoidracing.com
but hey...here's what my head looks like NOW (after a $1300 head job with all new valves) ..i got it back wednesday from stoid racing here in dallas...they built the two fastest cars at sport compact car's ultimate street challenge with their mr2 and their sleeper miata
www.stoidracing.com
#29
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I must respectfully disagree that "every engine has its leaks". They don't leak from the factory new, there's no reason for them to leak after a proper rebuild. Period. If it leaks, it can be fixed. I have not tolerated any leaks of any type on any of the cars I've owned and I don't plan on starting now. If it's leaking it means either you didn't do something right or something failed. Either way, it's fixable.
#30
hmmm....someone said that block was going to be a boat anchor...when you get it out let me know. I will gladly pay shipping plus a little cash for that block.
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