johne

I’m getting tired of spending 80-140 bucks a pop for alignments, so I’m think I’m going to start aligning my car myself. I know of several different methods including:

Stringing-run strings parallel to the sides of the car and use geometry-usually used for toe

Tape measure- measuring the distance between the inside edges of the left and right tires with a tape measure- only used for toe

Bubble gages-magnetic gauge sticks to the wheel and reads camber and castor- http://www.paragon-products.com/product_p/lr_78270.htm

What do you all use and what do you recommend. Also the pro’s and cons of each system are welcomed.

Thanks,
John

Matt H

John, et al - those are great ways to set camber, caster, and toe. Just for reference there are a whole lot more measurements than that. Setback, centerline, etc. Even more for body work such as secondary included angles. Ride height needs to be adjusted, etc.

You can do a very basic alignment with a camber/caster gauge and a tape measure and it should work just fune.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

BruceWard

You may need some special tools, a P221 rear toe aduster and a thin wrench to adjust rear camber.

You could probably get setup for the cost of a couple of alignments. But I would rather have the pros do it with their laser alignment machines and special racks. If you do decide to DIY it building some stands with sliding surfaces to jack the car up and set the wheels on will make it much easier.

ninefiveone

Not to mention things like thrust angle that a good professional alignment can account for.

That said, some of my best alignments have been done just with my eyeball. But I have little concern for street wear and only care how it handles at the track. So for all I know, my alignments may have worked well for performance but would have eaten up the tires in daily driving.

Don 944 LA

I'm about to replace my Inner/Outer Tie rods. I have 1/4 inch play on both sides of the inner tie rod ball joint.
So, afterward, it's off to get new front tires and an alignment. I'm going to get a lifetime alignment. I talked the shop down to like $129 for a lifetime alignment.. This way, I can take it in every couple months to have it redone. Especially whenever I do any front work in bushings etc....

It's worth it to me to have the conveinence of taking it in for free.

Don

mark944turbo

Formula one cars are still aligned with fishing line like material, so all the lasers and whatnot are not necessarily the most accurate.

KuHL 951

Just a warning, you might want to read the small print on those 'Lifetime' alignments. I guarantee you that if you take it in "every couple months" they will find something "defective", "owner modified", or anything to keep you out of the place. The other way they discourage you is to sell you $20 shims, $30 eccentrics, or make you drop the car off in the morning and pick it up after 5pm.

Geo

You can do that just fine with a DIY alignment. Anything you can measure with a fancy rig can be done manually.

I have a friend who won a weekend of beer on a bet that he couldn't measure a car's alignment with his Smart Camber gauge and toe plates within 1/32" of what a fancy laser alignment rig could. BTW his toe plates are just angle iron with bolts to place the angle iron about 3-4" off the ground.

Some people use 4 jack stands, string, and a protractor.

There is no reason you cannot learn to do your own alignment.

Elephant Chuck

Firstly, the car needs to be on perfectly level ground. Use a water level and a stack of floor tiles (1/16 inch thick) to make all four tire spots perfect.

Use strings to set toe. Strings can be squared to the car centerline, ensuring toe is true to the centerline. Measuring between the tires doesn't cut it, both wheels may be off the centerline and still read proper toe.

I affix a 6 foot rod to the front and rear bumpers, then stretch the strings between them. Square them up to the hubs and make them parallel to each other. Now you can measure toe with a ruler.

The reason for affixing rods to the bumpers is you can move the car around, jack it up, etc without upseting the strings. This save loads of time..

I use a digital level module mounted to a straight peice of AL stock to measure camber. This is good to 1/10th degree.

Caster can be derived by measuring camber while the wheels are turned left, then right a fixed amount. You'll need to do a little trig to figure the actual value in degrees, but it is more important to make sure they are the same.

That is a pretty brief description but all the basics are there.

I do all my own alignments.

johne

Well, thank you all very much! I was a little hesitant but as always this list provides the reassurance necessary to move forward. I definitely appreciate all of the tips I'm sure they will all come in handy.

A big thanks to Chuck I definitely appreciate the advice. A couple questions though:
1) How do you attach the rods to the bumpers?
2) What materials did you use for the construction of your water level? Or even better do you have some pics of it? I know the theory behind one, just not the practice.

Also if anyone else has any advice, tips, or just opinions I'd love to hear them.

Thanks,
John

Geo

Well, just to be fair, there is another thread on the racing forum on this subject and some folks there are saying it's too difficult to DIY. You may want to check it out.

SoCal Driver

"NEW Super Magnet - stronger pull, dead flat surface for the best accuracy "

Must be an aluminum magnet.

Matt H

Lets see, the car weighs virtually nothing, ALL the parts are brand new, tires are changed twice in 200 miles, etc. Not really much of a comparison to a street car.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

Elephant Chuck

John

A water level can be constructed using about 20 feet of clear flexible tubing (about 1/4 in ID) , a pair of jack stands and a couple spring clamps.

Fill the tube with water so that it is full nearly to the ends, held in a U shape to contain the water. Use a spring clamp to attach each end to a jack stand. Place the jackstands on the spots you want to compare. Measure from the water line to the ground, when the measure is equal they rae level.

Use the floor tile shims under the jackstands until level is achieved.

Rods can be attached to the bumpers using tape. I like to use the wide low-tack blue painters tape. Use aluminum stock for the rods, lightweight so the tape is plenty strong.

You can also buy a "Strings" setup from SmartRacing. It is essentially the same thing I just described, except you don't need to tape it to the bumpers.

slowazzporsche

i did my own, it was aligned a yr before i bought it.. i checked it out and it was fine so when i did the ball joints and tie rod ends and such.. i just scribed the threads and put it back to where it was.. car drives perfecly straight