how to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt
#1
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how to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt
i've got the engine out, the head off, and the flywheel off. the engine is on a stand. i rented an impact wrench with 240 ft/lb of twist but the pulley bolt refuses to budge. the local rental company doesn't have anything stronger than that wrench.
any ideas? if you guys have a stronger impact wrench, where did you get it from? anybody close to me that would let me borrow one?
any ideas? if you guys have a stronger impact wrench, where did you get it from? anybody close to me that would let me borrow one?
#3
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Put two of the flywheel bolts back in. Get a friend to hold a metal bar between the two of them and jam it behind a bolt in one of the bellhousing holes. Remove the crankbolt. Be extremely careful.
#4
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I did this recently with the engine still in the car. With the oil pan off - place a bar between two counterweights of the crank and the block. Be careful that you select an appropriately sized bar to reduce risk of damage to anything. Now apply a little torque on the bolt to jam the bar in place and verify that it's not going to cause damage. Use a very long breaker bar to apply enough torque to loosen the bolt. YMMV.
#5
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You've got to have the flywheel lock in for this. Makes it a million times easier. Then just use a good long breaker bar with pipe on it. Mine was 4' long and still I had to give it some muscle to get mine off.
Guess what's getting a nice happy coating of anti-sieze when it goes back in?
Guess what's getting a nice happy coating of anti-sieze when it goes back in?
#6
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POP is right about the lock being the easiest way. If you don't mind putting the flywheel back on with just two or three bolts and reattaching the bellhousing (sans clutch) you could do it that way. Regardless, you will need the big breaker bar and white knuckles to get the bolt loose.
#7
Hi, Joe,
I use an Ingersoll-Rand IR2151 1/2 inch impact wrench with a 24 mm Impact Socket and have not found a crankshaft bolt that it cannot pop loose yet. The reason that it costs a little bit more is that it works. Those cheap indian and chinese and chicago impact wrenches are a waste of time.
gb
I use an Ingersoll-Rand IR2151 1/2 inch impact wrench with a 24 mm Impact Socket and have not found a crankshaft bolt that it cannot pop loose yet. The reason that it costs a little bit more is that it works. Those cheap indian and chinese and chicago impact wrenches are a waste of time.
gb
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#8
Three Wheelin'
If some previous owner/mechanic used loctite red on it, you are in for some real fun! I have had the priviledge of removing one with the stuff on it. It was not fun. A 1" impact wrench would not budge it.
If you have some scrap angle or flat bar around, you can drill two holes in it that align with two in the end of the crankshaft, and bolt it to the crank. Slide it in between the fingers on the stand and use that to hold it. The typical flywheel lock used during the belt/seal job is only useful if the bellhousing and clutch are still on the engine. I would not jamb something in between the block and crank. That is fine for boat anchors, but not for rebuildables. It is your money and time though.
If you have some scrap angle or flat bar around, you can drill two holes in it that align with two in the end of the crankshaft, and bolt it to the crank. Slide it in between the fingers on the stand and use that to hold it. The typical flywheel lock used during the belt/seal job is only useful if the bellhousing and clutch are still on the engine. I would not jamb something in between the block and crank. That is fine for boat anchors, but not for rebuildables. It is your money and time though.
#9
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Originally Posted by cruise98
If some previous owner/mechanic used loctite red on it, you are in for some real fun! I have had the priviledge of removing one with the stuff on it. It was not fun. A 1" impact wrench would not budge it.
If you have some scrap angle or flat bar around, you can drill two holes in it that align with two in the end of the crankshaft, and bolt it to the crank. Slide it in between the fingers on the stand and use that to hold it. The typical flywheel lock used during the belt/seal job is only useful if the bellhousing and clutch are still on the engine. I would not jamb something in between the block and crank. That is fine for boat anchors, but not for rebuildables. It is your money and time though.
If you have some scrap angle or flat bar around, you can drill two holes in it that align with two in the end of the crankshaft, and bolt it to the crank. Slide it in between the fingers on the stand and use that to hold it. The typical flywheel lock used during the belt/seal job is only useful if the bellhousing and clutch are still on the engine. I would not jamb something in between the block and crank. That is fine for boat anchors, but not for rebuildables. It is your money and time though.
As a wise man once said: "if the ladies don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy".
Keep your stick on the ice...
#11
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OH, yea.......my tool rental store had a 430 ft/lb impact wrench after all. i rented that baby and pop! off came the pulley bolt. no loctite or anything - just torqued on. took all of five minutes, and no back-breaking maneuvers, either.
man, i LOVE these impact wrenches - they are the sh*t.
man, i LOVE these impact wrenches - they are the sh*t.
#13
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Fuse 24 Assassin
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Fuse 24 Assassin
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when mine had to be replaced my mechanic took a lead pipe and slipped it over the bottom of the breaker bar and we pulled just a little and it came off lickity split!
Andy
Andy