Total range of the spring plate is probably 1.25 inches. This mean your cars is set level with adjuster in the center you raise it .625 inches or lower it .625 inches.

It is rare that there is enough room in the rear spring plate that you can complensate for it with spring plate. Going with a realtivly small 100 lbs spring combined with a thicker 25.5 mm rear torsion bar means the coilover has less impact in the overall spring rate. Use a 23.5 mm t-bar and 200 lbs coilover and the need to reindex has gone up dramaticly.

 

Tifo & M758- I never tought about the dif b/t the 23.5mm & 25.5mm T-bar & it's effect on the whole situation. At any rate, I DO agree Tifo, that 1.25" is extreme- actually, it wasn't QUITE$ 1.25", BUT, my mechanic measured the total drop (BEFORE adding the helpers) & came up w/just over a FULL inch- that's what he said- when Karl had a local shop trim the spring hats, etc, to fix the squeeling, they said I could easily drop the car a little more- IIRC, he said I could safely drop it a little more...

BTW- I JUST measured my wheels- Poidex, etc- my left rear is ~25.5", right rear is a hair under 25.75", & bth fronts are ~25.25"- they don't appear to have as much gap b/t the fender & the top of tire as your's do- not sure why- also, I need to get a leveler & check the rocker panel- I was wanting it even, front to rear, & going by the rocker panel, it seems to be about perfect, but regardless, I think I'm going to drop the rear another 1/4" w/a hair more on the right side....

SO- does ANYONE know, if I lowered the rear by ~1/4" W/the eccentric nuts- NOT reindexing T-bars- would I still need to REalign the car? I would HATE to have to do this, as I JUST did the alignment a few months back when getting all this stuff done to begin with....

Thanks
Robby

 

Not much alignment needed if you drop it another 0.25"; provided you have the adjustment range with the eccentrics.

The issue here is one of convenience vs. performance. Albeit the 100lb helper-springs aren't much, but they still do work in parallel with the torsion-bars to determine the effective rate at the tyres' contact patch. Imagine that case earlier that Tifosiman mentioned with your suspension extended to the point where the springs are no longer loaded. You end up with a situation where you transition between two effective spring-rates, torsion-bars alone and torsion-bars+helper-springs.

Since the dampers' rebound damping is keyed to the car's weight and spring-rates, you'll have a compromised combination of spring-rate to rebound damping. If you set it right in the middle, you end up with too much damping when the helper-springs are fully relaxed, and too little damping at the combined rate.

Ideally, you'd want a spring of such a length such that as you wind up the suspension, the spring and the torsion bars start to get preloaded at about the same time.

 

Danno- I appreacite any input you give, but, you lost me completely on this one.... ?

ALso- you said- "NOT MUCH" alignment would be needed- does this mean that SOME will be needed? wouldn't matter- would STILL cost $200.... I need to know if it's possible I can do w/out it or not.... if it DID screw it up, is there a way to know in WHAT way it DID mess it up? I mean, does LOWERING change the rear wheels camber (+ or -), or, toe (+ or -), etc...

I'm sending you an e-mail right now, too, Danno... this ones a good one btw ;-)

Thanks