I'm six feet 210, so I need a strong two feet of clearance, if not three feet. Though I have jackstands that will extend far enough, my jack doesn't. So I couldn't get under the car far enough, or at the right elevation to gain enough leverage. I posted this, because as a write up, orthers are bound to find themselves in a similar situation. I will be trying to put together a GB on AC Hydraulic jacks, in the next six months. I HAVE to HAVE ONE!
Anyway, the issue was leverage/torque. I'll add more things that I encounter as I go. There have been a few. This write up is all you need if you are experienced, and have a strong assortment of tools. I'm going to add the steps that Chuck figured were common sense, or that were so basic he didn't include them. Hopefully that will help others later. This is a super write up as it is, but noobs will make different mistakes than a pro like Chuck would.
BTW I'm using it only for T-Bar delete ATM. I'll upgrade the bushings later.

 

Timely information.

I'll be removing my torsion bars, and installing coilovers and bushings in a few weeks. Keep the tips coming!

 

I've got one, it's very nice. Lifts the car higher then you'll probably ever need--overkill perhaps, but better too much than not enough. Well worth the expense!!

 

That's the trick. Use your floor jack to turn the breaker bar or wrench!

 

Does anyone have a good tip for getting the rear t-bar tube mount (see pic) to rotate back into place so that I can fasten it? The tbar tube is on the hooks, but the assembly seems to far to the rear of the car to mate up. HELP!!!!!!!!!!

 

Get a tire iron and work the assembly around, it'll go. Just don't pull it up too tight whn you try to get it in, it will pin it and not allow movement or alignment. lemme work on a pic...

 

Also could let the front of the carrier to drop a little and jack up the swing arms to get it to twist some. Get a big screwdriver or tire iron and pry where the red line is. Should be able to get up in there on that bolt and pry against the end plate of the carrier. Good luck, I fought the one I swapped in Rock's NA.

 

Well thanks. I went back to square one. Since I removed the t-bars, I just went back and removed all the way to the spring plate, and I'll start fresh tomorrow. This time I will be more aware of the relative position of t-bar tube.So much for Daytona tomorrow. 95 bucks down the crapper.

 

Good Job! I will defintiely refer to this DIY when I need to do this. These DIY postings are a godsend. Keep them coming.

 

bump

 

What is the benefit of dropping one side of the torsion tube at a time, rather than dropping the whole thing? Is it so you don't have to remove the rear section of exhaust? Or are there other benefits?

I just started doing mine, and from my untrained eye, it almost seems easier just to drop the whole thing. Has anybody done it both ways, and what are your opinions on each? Thanks!!!

 

you need the tilt angle on each side. Technically you may end up with both down, but you need the angle to pull the bars out under the body work.

 

When you put it back together, leave all of the bolts loose, while you line up the assemblies.

 

Can any one tell me please Are the Spring plate Bushes for a ( 89 ) 911 the same size as the 944 S2, as they seem to be in short supply here in the uk, or expensive !!

Cheers !!

 

don't know but have you checked here.

http://www.elephantracing.com/suspen...11bushings.htm