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Smoke coming from distributor housing?

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Old 07-18-2004, 12:18 PM
  #16  
peterjcb
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Here's another shot.
Old 07-18-2004, 12:38 PM
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The roller thing that the arrow is pointing at is the waterpump impeller shaft. The waterpump is obviously the thing the hoses are hooked to, but if you look it actually sit behind that back belt cover and extends towards the upper left of the picture. See the line of three bolts at the upper left below that wire? The two smaller ones towards the left are two of the many waterpump mounting bolts. That larger one is for the balance shaft housing.

If the waterpump bearings are on their way out (and theyre VERY close to it, if not seized already) that would explain your coolant leak.

Just a heads up, all your belts, idlers, and rollers should be replaced soon as well. If youre going to budget for this to be done in a shop, its quite a large sum but get it ALL done in one go, all the belts and such have to be removed anyway to get to the waterpump, so its best to do it all in one go. I wass quoted about $2000USD from a dealer for the pump, all belts, rollers, etc. A shop should be cheaper, but its still 8 hours to change out the pump alone.
Old 07-18-2004, 12:54 PM
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Change that waterpump. It's an old one. The updated pumps have a water outlet that is blocked off. It's at the flat spot with that one rusty stud sticking out, next to where the big hose connects. The one in your pic does not have that.
It does look like there's a lot of rubber on the cam belt idler and the water pump drive roller.
If you say that the cambelt idler is not turning smoothly then that's most likely the source of the burning rubber.
Don't take the chance. Replace the pump, ALL the rollers, and both belts.
Old 07-18-2004, 01:21 PM
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peterjcb
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OK, I just checked again. Both idler rollers appear to be spinning freely.
I am definitely having trouble turning the water pump impeller shaft roller. I think it's the source of my rubber smell and the rubber shavings.
Old 07-18-2004, 01:23 PM
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SoCal Driver
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I agree on changing out the water pump. Not only is it an older pump but it is a rebuilt older pump. I had to replace a rebuilt older water pump after about 30,000 because it started to fail. I have a newer rebult water pump now. Seems to be holding with more than 30,000 on it.

Good pictures.
Old 07-18-2004, 01:28 PM
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Chris_924s
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MAN O MAN!!!

I think you caught that just in time.. a few more minutes of run time and the belts would have let loose.. looks like the WP siezed.

Definetly an older waterpump. Consider replacment with the "turbo" waterpump, the place where the stud sticks out will have a blockoff on it..

FWIW I thought everything was upgraded to the turbo WP after 87 - mine had one from the factory.
Old 07-18-2004, 02:07 PM
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Originally posted by SoCal Driver
I agree on changing out the water pump. Not only is it an older pump but it is a rebuilt older pump. I had to replace a rebuilt older water pump after about 30,000 because it started to fail. I have a newer rebult water pump now. Seems to be holding with more than 30,000 on it.

Good pictures.
I think that I agree, the pump needs to be changed especially since I WAS leaking coolant prior to this.

Originally posted by Chris_924s
MAN O MAN!!!

I think you caught that just in time.. a few more minutes of run time and the belts would have let loose.. looks like the WP siezed
I'm also lucky that I was driving around town and was aware of my engine sounds. Had I been on the hightway with the CD going, I probably wouldn't have noticed the smell or the squealing.
After reading the various posts on this forum, I'm a lot more aware of the potential timing belt problems, especially with my 16V engine.
Old 07-18-2004, 10:02 PM
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The other thing you might want to consider is getting all the front seals done, if youre doing this in a shop. Would prolly cure any oil leaks you may have.

And if its hard to turn the waterpump shaft, consider yourself VERY lucky!
Old 07-18-2004, 10:10 PM
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Kevin Baker
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Change the water pump. Anybody notice the heat spots on the impeller pulley? Do the rollers too. That makes me think, when I do my belt, I'll have to replace it all.
Old 07-18-2004, 10:20 PM
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Looks like you were minutes away from impending failure. You saved the hole in your wallet, especially since you would have smashed 16 valves instead of 8!

The flat spot on the waterpump that 944pete is refering to, is that stud supposed to support a hose or something? I noticed the same thing when looking at the 944 i am buying soon. I have a feeling this car is either running the original waterpump or a very old one at the least. I dont even think the owner knows when the timing belt was changed. I hope it dosent blow before he sells it too me....
Old 07-18-2004, 10:35 PM
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Pete,
Kevin noticed it too, the heat discoloration on the water pump pully. Ayup, looks like time for water pump, rollers, belts. Not to bad of a job, and lucky you caught it when you did.
Bill
Old 07-18-2004, 11:24 PM
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Thanks guys for all your help. Looks like I'm going to do everything since it will be sitting on jacks in my garage anyway......belts, rollers, tensioners, water pump, front seals seals and while I'm at it I noticed that my distributor cap & rotor were pitted so I'll probably replace that too. I'm also going to look into my cam chain tensioner pad,,,, God knows that's probably ready to go also.
Anyway, I'm been looking at Clark's Garage for some tips because I want to learm more about my car & do the repairs myself.
Any suggestions for best place & prices for parts?
Old 07-18-2004, 11:28 PM
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Kevin Baker
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Yes, chain pads, dear Lord yes. Try www.paragon-products.com. and Pelican
Old 07-18-2004, 11:31 PM
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Paragon Products

Pelican Parts

Zim's Autotechnik

Vertex Auto
Old 07-18-2004, 11:46 PM
  #30  
Peckster
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No question about doing the front engine seals while you're in there.

You are a lucky guy. If there'd been much antifreeze leaked on your timing belt, you'd be looking for a new head too.


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