944Ecology

Well, of course, you have to remove the speed and reference sensors, and the mounting block for the sensors.

gb

billybones

My car has a ground wire attached to the bell housing. same area as the sensors

rihaa

OK, finished up taking everything out but the flywheel. Going to wait until I get the flywheel lock to go ahead and do that. Otherwise everything went reasonably smoothly today.

Will post some pictures later on of the clutch, where the rubber was definately on its way out.

ErichCS

Instead of a flywheel lock you can have your friend hold the front of the crank shaft with a 24mm socket(and breaker bar). The bolt on the crank is like 140 ft lbs so you don't need to worry about it loosening up. Thats just an idea....Or wait till you get a fly wheel lock.

Since you are taking off the flywheel are you also going to replace the rear main seal which is right behind the flywheel?

Erich

rihaa

Well I was under the impression that you should always have the flywheel resurfaced when you do a clutch job. If thats not the case than I won't even bother as the wear seems to be quite even and smooth on it.

Otherwise I was going to go ahead and have it resurfaced and then depending on how difficult the seal was to replace, I would do that as well.

ErichCS

Its a good idea to have it looked at, so i'd say have it done. But when you have it off i would def. change the rear main seal. Its not that hard or expensive and if the old one does leak guess where all the oil is going to go??

Thats right...all over your new clutch! Once i thought about that it was a no-brainer to change it when i did mine.

Good Luck!
Erich

Kevin Baker

Don't forget about the ground wire up at the top of the bellhousing! That darn thing held me up for about an hour.

As for the release fork shaft. It must come all the way out. You can make a tool to draw it out. Get a couple of copper bushings and a washer, thread a bolt through the washer, then the bushings, and "draw" the shaft out into the bushings.