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(x-post) Girdle flush with block on oil pump side?

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Old 07-10-2004, 08:28 PM
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adrial
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Default (x-post) Girdle flush with block on oil pump side?

How large a gap can the loctite fill?

A listed had mentioned freezing the girdle to get it to line up...This doesn't make sense to me. Won't the girdle just expand again once it warms up??

TIA,
Adrial
Old 07-10-2004, 09:46 PM
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The girdle sticks out ~.10mm more than the block. (Measured using the oil pump and a feeler gauge). So, I would think I definetely need to get it lined up better than that...any tips?
Old 07-11-2004, 12:44 AM
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Mike C.
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Adrial, I ran into the same issue when I rebuilt mine. I was not comfortable with just bolting it down and hoping loctite would cover it. I was also worried about distorting the pump. I finally decided on a custom made (by me) brass shim of 0.003" thickness (it was a while ago but I'm pretty sure it was 3). I just carefully cut it to fit the block side where the pump mounts and then used loctite on both sides. It's lasted fine for 140K miles....
Old 07-12-2004, 11:21 PM
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Thanks for the tip...I will probably do that as a last resort. It doesn't seem ideal to change the clearences...though it would probably work fine as your experience shows.

I've been told that this is covered in the factory manuals, but I cant find it anywhere. Where should I be looking? I'm in the engine section, around page 13-20 and I dont see anything that goes into lining up the girdle with the block so that the oil pump sits right.

TIA,
adrial
Old 07-14-2004, 12:31 AM
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Mike C.
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Page 13-24a (maybe it was a supplement). It states "Using a plastic hammer, align the slightly tightened lower part of the crankcase (10 - 20 Nm torque) with the upper part of the crankcase. Carry out the finger nail test at the joint. Then tighten the bolts to final torque value. Smooth any slight remaining offset at the joint with an oil stone."

It was my experience that you won't find a large enough plastic hammer to move the girdle .003", but hopefully it will work for you.



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