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Plastigauge necesary?

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Old 06-28-2004, 10:57 PM
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adrial
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Default Plastigauge necesary?

With new rod and main bearings?

My only concern is putting an extra torquing on the crankcase studs...

Crank was measured to be in spec by the machine shop, so I dont see why plastigauge would be necesary with fresh bearings?

TIA,
Adrial
Old 06-28-2004, 11:04 PM
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Predator
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Do you trust the machinists? Will they pay for a new crank? It takes less that an hour and costs less than a six-pack. Pretty cheap insurance!
Old 06-29-2004, 12:14 AM
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Geo
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Default Re: Plastigauge necesary?

Originally posted by adrial
With new rod and main bearings?

My only concern is putting an extra torquing on the crankcase studs...

Crank was measured to be in spec by the machine shop, so I dont see why plastigauge would be necesary with fresh bearings?

TIA,
Adrial
You cannot get away with just measuring the crank. You should also measure the bores (rod and block) with the bearings installed to get the clearances. If they have not done this and marked all the bearing positions for you, you absolutely should use Plastigage. It's cheap and easy to use.

DO IT.
Old 06-29-2004, 12:18 AM
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hacker-pschorr
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Since I've never done this before, I have a question.

So yo use Plastigage, what do you do if you find one or two bearings are out of spec? How do you adjust for this?
Old 06-29-2004, 12:30 AM
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Jfrahm
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Resize the rods, regrind the crank, get undersize bearings, whatever it takes.

-Joel
Old 06-29-2004, 04:22 AM
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944T4ME
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Actually, all you do is use a special machine (of course) that is made just for grinding rods and caps. There is a gauge on the machine that you use to check when you have grinded enough metal off, then you use the honer in the machine to make the hole round again. As for the crank-to-block caps, I imagine you can use the machine for those caps as well, though I have only done the rods personally. Probably an engine hone has the tool for honing that part of it. We had a pretty kick *** shop at my tech college I went to during high school.
Old 06-29-2004, 05:53 AM
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I've used it- My take is I would rather trust my own measurement than take someone else's word that it's right. Cheap insurance as long as it's apart.

I've only fully rebuilt V8's tho.
Old 06-29-2004, 08:24 AM
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Originally posted by Jfrahm
Resize the rods, regrind the crank, get undersize bearings, whatever it takes.

-Joel
That's what I thought, good to now since I hope to rebuild both Porsche's this winter. My 944 engine has been apart since 2001, and I'm 75% sure I'm going to need a rebuild on the 928 by the end of summer.
Old 06-29-2004, 09:00 AM
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Geo
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Originally posted by 944T4ME
As for the crank-to-block caps, I imagine you can use the machine for those caps as well...
Uses a special hone. Saw it in use on Overhaulin. It's a portable "hand held" (sort of) extra long hone. Pretty cool actually.



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