brake discs and front pads for track days and normal road use???
06-19-2004, 05:25 PM
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brake discs and front pads for track days and normal road use???
hi
just got in from a track day and i need advice on brake discs and front pads for track days and normal road use???
as the ones i have at the moment faded after a short time round the track and as i need front discs anyway(or thats my excuse
)
what make type or brands should i go for
just got in from a track day and i need advice on brake discs and front pads for track days and normal road use???
as the ones i have at the moment faded after a short time round the track and as i need front discs anyway(or thats my excuse
)what make type or brands should i go for
06-19-2004, 06:30 PM
#2
Race Car
OEM disks can't be improved upon and there are a number of good pads to choose from. NA or turbo? how much track vs how much street use? Any Autox? Do things like dust and noise matter much to you? There are a few variables.
You may want to work on that name a little, is it "big Al 13" or "bi gal 13?"
You may want to work on that name a little, is it "big Al 13" or "bi gal 13?"
06-19-2004, 06:40 PM
#3
Nordschleife Master
Slotted rotors will wear out your pads faster, while giving hot brake gases an escape route.
Drilled rotors do the same to a lesser extent, but they also increase the surface area of the rotor and aid a wee bit in cooling. If your drilled rotors are CAST with the holes in them, (such as OEM 993TT rotors) they will last much longer before starting to crack around the holes. Solid rotors that have been drilled afterwards are crap, imho and are not worth the $$$.
stock solid rotors are more than likely adequate for track days.
Drilled rotors do the same to a lesser extent, but they also increase the surface area of the rotor and aid a wee bit in cooling. If your drilled rotors are CAST with the holes in them, (such as OEM 993TT rotors) they will last much longer before starting to crack around the holes. Solid rotors that have been drilled afterwards are crap, imho and are not worth the $$$.
stock solid rotors are more than likely adequate for track days.
06-19-2004, 06:45 PM
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Originally posted by Dave
OEM disks can't be improved upon and there are a number of good pads to choose from. NA or turbo? how much track vs how much street use? Any Autox? Do things like dust and noise matter much to you? There are a few variables.
You may want to work on that name a little, is it "big Al 13" or "bi gal 13?"
OEM disks can't be improved upon and there are a number of good pads to choose from. NA or turbo? how much track vs how much street use? Any Autox? Do things like dust and noise matter much to you? There are a few variables.
You may want to work on that name a little, is it "big Al 13" or "bi gal 13?"
lol
well what ever turns you on BUT if you ever meet me then you will know which name to call me or you better be a fast runner
as for pads mainly road use and once a month track use 944s as for noise not to loud just a good comprise
06-20-2004, 08:29 AM
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Hey;
Stick with OE rotors. you can skip the slotting and drilling for now, I'd think. I would strongly suggest you get Zimmermann or ATE rotors. There is another brand out there named Sebro that are supposed to be OE, but they are the only brand I have EVER had warp. Not definitive by an means, and take that for what it is worth, but...
The most common reasons for brake fade are thin rotors, thin pads, or old fluid. Make sure you have all three fresh and you likely will never have a problem again.
Interestingly, my experience with slotted -vs- drilled is exactly opposite of Rich's. I get very little if any extra rotor/pad wear from the rotors I slot myself for my track car. The drilled rotors chew pads at a HUGE rate, which then chews up the rotors, and they also crack. My experience is that drilling shortens the life of everything drastically, and the harder you use the brakes, the more exponential the wear rate.
If your drilled rotors don't act like this, you had no need for them in the first place because you are not braking that hard!!
I'd try PBR / AXXISS Metal Master pads. The best all around pad out there for my money.
Stick with OE rotors. you can skip the slotting and drilling for now, I'd think. I would strongly suggest you get Zimmermann or ATE rotors. There is another brand out there named Sebro that are supposed to be OE, but they are the only brand I have EVER had warp. Not definitive by an means, and take that for what it is worth, but...
The most common reasons for brake fade are thin rotors, thin pads, or old fluid. Make sure you have all three fresh and you likely will never have a problem again.
Interestingly, my experience with slotted -vs- drilled is exactly opposite of Rich's. I get very little if any extra rotor/pad wear from the rotors I slot myself for my track car. The drilled rotors chew pads at a HUGE rate, which then chews up the rotors, and they also crack. My experience is that drilling shortens the life of everything drastically, and the harder you use the brakes, the more exponential the wear rate.
If your drilled rotors don't act like this, you had no need for them in the first place because you are not braking that hard!!
I'd try PBR / AXXISS Metal Master pads. The best all around pad out there for my money.
06-20-2004, 08:38 AM
#6
Nordschleife Master
John H, did you drill the holes in your rotors yourself? I think the custom drilled rotors are worse than cast drilled rotors because the edges of the holes are sharpers and wear the pads faster.
Has anyone ever seen drilled rotors with chamfered/filleted edges around the holes??? I bet that would be helpful for pad life.
I don't have a lot of experience with this stuff but brakes are higher on my to do list than anything else so I am doing a lot of reading on them lately.
Has anyone ever seen drilled rotors with chamfered/filleted edges around the holes??? I bet that would be helpful for pad life.
I don't have a lot of experience with this stuff but brakes are higher on my to do list than anything else so I am doing a lot of reading on them lately.
06-20-2004, 08:39 AM
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Excellent advice from John Hajny. He may have the fastest normally aspirated 944 I have seen at Watkins Glen, but a lot of that has to do with the driver.
He literally wrote the book on getting around the Glen...
gb
He literally wrote the book on getting around the Glen...
gb
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06-20-2004, 09:32 AM
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Hi,
Anyone tried PAGID pads for road/occasional track use?
Oh - I spent yesterday in the passenger seat with bi gal 13 around the track and I have never seen brakes fade so quickly, any recommendations for brake fluid?
Anyone tried PAGID pads for road/occasional track use?
Oh - I spent yesterday in the passenger seat with bi gal 13 around the track and I have never seen brakes fade so quickly, any recommendations for brake fluid?
06-20-2004, 09:51 AM
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Originally posted by MikeStewart
Hi,
Anyone tried PAGID pads for road/occasional track use?
Oh - I spent yesterday in the passenger seat with bi gal 13 around the track and I have never seen brakes fade so quickly, any recommendations for brake fluid?
Hi,
Anyone tried PAGID pads for road/occasional track use?
Oh - I spent yesterday in the passenger seat with bi gal 13 around the track and I have never seen brakes fade so quickly, any recommendations for brake fluid?
you should know better ps exhaust now fixed after yesterdays mishap
06-20-2004, 10:09 AM
#10
Nordschleife Master
Hawk HP Street and track pads!
This compound was designed for the serious street and track junkie. The HP Plus material can take the heat of the track and get you home safely without having to take your brake pads in and out. These pads do not require heat to work, so they are also excellent for autocross. Note: Due to the dramatic friction levels of this product, they will be noisy at times, produce quite a bit of dust, and affect rotor life. I would highly recommend these pads for high performance driving schools.
This compound was designed for the serious street and track junkie. The HP Plus material can take the heat of the track and get you home safely without having to take your brake pads in and out. These pads do not require heat to work, so they are also excellent for autocross. Note: Due to the dramatic friction levels of this product, they will be noisy at times, produce quite a bit of dust, and affect rotor life. I would highly recommend these pads for high performance driving schools.