What is this behind my glove box?
#1
What is this behind my glove box?
When I was installing an AFR gauge a few months ago I came across this behind my glove box. I know this thing is older than 2018-2019 because the other 2 owners had no clue it was in there. It's on a very long cord thats just bunched up and I'm not exactly sure what its tied into. I'm guessing its an old tracker? Looking for ideas
#3
Its not an OEM porsche piece of hardware (made in china), likely an aftermarket alarm remote receiver or something else.
Hows the megasquirt coming along?
Hows the megasquirt coming along?
Last edited by walfreyydo; 01-29-2024 at 11:22 AM.
#4
The megasquirt has been doing good since the week after thanksgiving. I was having fueling issues with the stock regulator and just me being stupid. I wasn't commanding the fuel pump on with the ECU. I ended up doing a full lindsey fuel system over thanksgiving break and realized my mistake. Crazy part is I was able to drive the car around my neighborhood without commanding the fuel pump. I've also had the car on E85, flame tunes etc. I think I've driven it 1200 miles now, still learning my way around tunerstudio. I've had one issue which isn't important. I can't get the car over 4000k, it looses sync. I've tried literally everything. I even talked to Lindsey and he noticed my trigger wheel was out of round which I fixed and I got nothing. I've spaced the sensor. Used noise filtering, everything in the msextra forums. I'm also on a hall effect and the only other thing I can come up with is that I'm running the sensor on 5v.
Last edited by TurrFinn; 01-29-2024 at 01:35 PM.
#5
The megasquirt has been doing good since the week after thanksgiving. I was having fueling issues with the stock regulator and just me being stupid. I wasn't commanding the fuel pump on with the ECU. I ended up doing a full lindsey fuel system over thanksgiving break and realized my mistake. Crazy part is I was able to drive the car around my neighborhood without commanding the fuel pump. I've also had the car on E85, flame tunes etc. I think I've driven it 1200 miles now, still learning my way around tunerstudio. I've had one issue which isn't important. I can't get the car over 4000k, it looses sync. I've tried literally everything. I even talked to Lindsey and he noticed my trigger wheel was out of round which I fixed and I got nothing. I've spaced the sensor. Used noise filtering, everything in the msextra forums. I'm also on a hall effect and the only other thing I can come up with is that I'm running the sensor on 5v.
I thought you were running a stock 8V NA?
Last edited by walfreyydo; 01-29-2024 at 01:53 PM.
#6
You running a turbo? E85 really only useful for running more boost/timing without the risk of detonation - ethanol will also eat your fuel lines and tends to absorb water. I havent heard of substantial gains in NA unless running super high compression. Be careful with the flame tunes, they will burn exhaust valves and your O2 sensor/cat (if you have one)...
I thought you were running a stock 8V NA?
I thought you were running a stock 8V NA?
My motor, to my knowledge is stock but I'm suspicious considerering the other parts of my car. The intake valves look weird and the sliver of piston I can see looks very bright/shiny. I'll be borescoping it when I get home.
Edit: I also forgot to mention I did an oil change and found zero metal in the pan.
Last edited by TurrFinn; 01-29-2024 at 02:18 PM.
#7
A little off topic but a few tips:
If you havent already look into over-run fuel cut on decel, it will help immensely with popping and backfires, and also increase fuel econ. Youll have to balance this against the need for very slight part throttle gas (such as cruising in a low gear through town). Like 2-3% or so TPS for overrun fuel cutoff and make sure it doesnt kick in when cruising, if it does, lower the TPS threshold. You really only want it to kick on when your foot is not touching the gas pedal. Youll know you are in cutoff because your AFR will jump to max lean on your wideband.
You could/should also increase timing in decel - I think mine is around 40 degrees advance or so (dont run that much advance under load tho). The more retard you run the more backfiring because ignition is so late in the cycle the flame/fuel is actually flowing out your exhaust and igniting (as opposed to normal timing when valves are fully closed during ignition) - hence the flames. Over run fuel cutoff resolves this somewhat but if you need to get back on the gas quick, having that ignition advance configured will make the car responsive when getting back on the gas quick. If its overly retarded, its not going to be responsive and may buck/hiccup.
Overly retarded timing is also what will burn your exhaust valves (that and ignition cut rev limiter/launch control/two-step - always do both or just fuel for rev limiter or two-step) - since ignition is happening with the valves open/slightly open. In terms of rev limiter, running ignition cut basically dumps raw fuel into your exhaust which then ignites due to the heat causing a gunshot explosion/backfire/flames - that explosion/two-step is what people think is cool, but its going to toast your valves/turbo/etc eventually. Its really really bad for your engine (if you want it to last that is). Obviously alot of the car culture folks dont understand this (or much about cars in general), and blow up/destroy their cars eventually with these sorts of tunes.
They do this in race applications because performance > longevity, and folks see this on race cars and want to put it on their street car not knowing the risks.
EDIT - speaking of rev limiter, check your settings to see you dont have that set wrong - maybe thats why you are only hitting 4k RPM, or maybe your trigger wheel is too small for the sensor to pickup all the teeth above a certain rpm - not sure just throwing out ideas.
If you havent already look into over-run fuel cut on decel, it will help immensely with popping and backfires, and also increase fuel econ. Youll have to balance this against the need for very slight part throttle gas (such as cruising in a low gear through town). Like 2-3% or so TPS for overrun fuel cutoff and make sure it doesnt kick in when cruising, if it does, lower the TPS threshold. You really only want it to kick on when your foot is not touching the gas pedal. Youll know you are in cutoff because your AFR will jump to max lean on your wideband.
You could/should also increase timing in decel - I think mine is around 40 degrees advance or so (dont run that much advance under load tho). The more retard you run the more backfiring because ignition is so late in the cycle the flame/fuel is actually flowing out your exhaust and igniting (as opposed to normal timing when valves are fully closed during ignition) - hence the flames. Over run fuel cutoff resolves this somewhat but if you need to get back on the gas quick, having that ignition advance configured will make the car responsive when getting back on the gas quick. If its overly retarded, its not going to be responsive and may buck/hiccup.
Overly retarded timing is also what will burn your exhaust valves (that and ignition cut rev limiter/launch control/two-step - always do both or just fuel for rev limiter or two-step) - since ignition is happening with the valves open/slightly open. In terms of rev limiter, running ignition cut basically dumps raw fuel into your exhaust which then ignites due to the heat causing a gunshot explosion/backfire/flames - that explosion/two-step is what people think is cool, but its going to toast your valves/turbo/etc eventually. Its really really bad for your engine (if you want it to last that is). Obviously alot of the car culture folks dont understand this (or much about cars in general), and blow up/destroy their cars eventually with these sorts of tunes.
They do this in race applications because performance > longevity, and folks see this on race cars and want to put it on their street car not knowing the risks.
EDIT - speaking of rev limiter, check your settings to see you dont have that set wrong - maybe thats why you are only hitting 4k RPM, or maybe your trigger wheel is too small for the sensor to pickup all the teeth above a certain rpm - not sure just throwing out ideas.
Last edited by walfreyydo; 01-29-2024 at 04:52 PM.
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#8
OP: If the only markings are "Made in China" and "12V" then it's likely something simple. I'm thinking either a resister for LED turn signals or maybe some sort of electrical noise reducer that feeds an aftermarket stereo.
-Tom
-Tom
#9
Walfreyydo,
I'm running over run fuel cut, still trying to dial it in.
I built my timing table off odonnels and other ones I found in the forums. I have just over 40 degrees in the decel area. Up in the top of my table about 6k I have 30-32 degrees or so. I'm not a huge fan of pops and bangs but I do like a solid flame but I hardly ever run a flame tune.
I have a limiter at 4k just to prevent the car from hitting lost sync which is just past 4k. I'm running the DIYAutoTune 6 3/4" 36-1 trigger wheel. It is 1/8" thick which comes out to 3.175mm, the sensor requires a minimum of 2mm. I've searched far an wide for an answer. All I can think is electrical noise or my voltage, maybe bracket vibration? I haven't thought of that till now, but I fly over railroad tracks every day and never loose sync. Harmonics maybe? The lost sync is just very specific about rpm so I rule out noise.
Last edited by TurrFinn; 01-29-2024 at 07:32 PM.
#14
#15
If it was antenna it didn't work, stock one was hooked up to the old radio and that one also didn't function. Like said it was behind the glove box on a 6 foot ish long wire that was bunched up. Right around the HVAC assembly. Its been a few months since I've put eyes on it but I can take a better look soon, maybe crack it open.