Heater valve, early 1983 944
06-08-2004, 12:13 AM
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Racer
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Heater valve, early 1983 944
Need advice, folks, I have this early 944 with cable control to the heater valve. The cable end is not connected to the lever for heat and I really do not want to get into the dash right now to re-attach it.
The short lever on the valve seems to be off to the left which I assume is cold, correct?
Well, there is just enough heat coming through to affect the A/C. I had a Mazda RX7 to which the PO had installed a simple 180 degree valve in a hose to cut off the flow of water to the heater core. I'd like to do this fix for the summer, if I wanted to install such a valve in which hose should I put it?
There are times when I wish I had a Porshe by the ear on some little jobs like getting at the heater valve. I do have the timing inspection hole well plugged as anti-freeze might do a number on my clutch, I hear.
Mike
The short lever on the valve seems to be off to the left which I assume is cold, correct?
Well, there is just enough heat coming through to affect the A/C. I had a Mazda RX7 to which the PO had installed a simple 180 degree valve in a hose to cut off the flow of water to the heater core. I'd like to do this fix for the summer, if I wanted to install such a valve in which hose should I put it?
There are times when I wish I had a Porshe by the ear on some little jobs like getting at the heater valve. I do have the timing inspection hole well plugged as anti-freeze might do a number on my clutch, I hear.
Mike
06-08-2004, 12:25 AM
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Racer
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early heater valve
Oops, omitted, a Porshe 'designer' to be grabbed by the ear and led to the firewall and explain to me why on earth he put the heater valve there, and how is one to work on it? Was this corrected on the later cars?
Mike
Mike
06-08-2004, 01:25 AM
#3
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Mike, I just happen to have a HCV laying around. The valve is closed when the white arm is rotated as far as possible away from the arm to which the cable is clamped.
Rather than install a shut-off valve, why not bypass the core with a piece of heater hose. I measured the nipples of the HCV at 0.710 inch. That means you'd need a heater hose that is 18mm inside diameter. The closed english unit size is 5/8 inch inside diameter. But the nipple is 1/16 over that so it might be a tight fit.
If you decide on a cutoff valve, place it in front of the HCV. The hose from the engine to the HCV is "L" shaped and about 4 inches long.
Probably the best thing is to replace the HCV, they only cost about $20.
I think late model HCVs were in exactly the same location. Some people relocate these valves. The later model valves are vacuum controled, so they have to install a longer vacuum line. On our early cars, you'd have to figure out how to install a longer cable or splice another cable on the end. Probably not worth the trouble.
And if you think this is a bad design, do a search on heater hose replacement. Turns out you have to remove the dash to remove the heater core clamps.
Rather than install a shut-off valve, why not bypass the core with a piece of heater hose. I measured the nipples of the HCV at 0.710 inch. That means you'd need a heater hose that is 18mm inside diameter. The closed english unit size is 5/8 inch inside diameter. But the nipple is 1/16 over that so it might be a tight fit.
If you decide on a cutoff valve, place it in front of the HCV. The hose from the engine to the HCV is "L" shaped and about 4 inches long.
Probably the best thing is to replace the HCV, they only cost about $20.
I think late model HCVs were in exactly the same location. Some people relocate these valves. The later model valves are vacuum controled, so they have to install a longer vacuum line. On our early cars, you'd have to figure out how to install a longer cable or splice another cable on the end. Probably not worth the trouble.
And if you think this is a bad design, do a search on heater hose replacement. Turns out you have to remove the dash to remove the heater core clamps.
06-08-2004, 02:03 AM
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"The cable end is not connected to the lever for heat and I really do not want to get into the dash right now to re-attach it."
So its not connected to the lever inside the car? Have you pulled the lever *****, and blower motor **** off, removed the two screws on the very bottom of the face plate, tipped the bottom of it out, and looked to see it wasn't hooked up and why? It takes about 5-10 minutes to look and see. Hopefully, plastic isn't broken off where cable clip is held on at.
"The short lever on the valve seems to be off to the left which I assume is cold, correct?"
Left meaning, top of white lever is away from cable mounting arm? This would mean water flow to heater core should be shut off (unless the valve has some leakby in it, and it just might if it is off all the way).
"I'd like to do this fix for the summer, if I wanted to install such a valve in which hose should I put it?"
If you were to do this, it should be put in same hose as heater valve. But, another way would be to just run hose from tube coming out of head to the water tube going back to the water pump. This would bypass heater core all together, no need for another valve this way, but no ability to get heat at all either.
If your going to replace or work on heater valve, I found it much easier to unhook cable from the inside of car at the control lever inside console, allow cable to be pulled out of firewall with heater valve still attached to other end just far enough to provide access to the clip holding the cable on this valve, then just pull cable back to the control lever inside. Anyway ya look at it, its still a PITA. For the trouble involved, I would recommend a new heater valve, and hose from the tube coming out of the head to the heater valve, be installed to avoid having to go back into it again anytime soon.
"I do have the timing inspection hole well plugged as anti-freeze might do a number on my clutch, I hear"
Keep it covered anytime your working above this hole also. Don't want to drop the cable clip, or anything else in the bellhousing either. If your leaking coolant from this area, you really need to stop this leak ASAP.
I just replaced the heater core, hoses, heater valve and small tube hose in my '83 a couble weeks back, a real fun thing....NOT! Good luck!
So its not connected to the lever inside the car? Have you pulled the lever *****, and blower motor **** off, removed the two screws on the very bottom of the face plate, tipped the bottom of it out, and looked to see it wasn't hooked up and why? It takes about 5-10 minutes to look and see. Hopefully, plastic isn't broken off where cable clip is held on at.
"The short lever on the valve seems to be off to the left which I assume is cold, correct?"
Left meaning, top of white lever is away from cable mounting arm? This would mean water flow to heater core should be shut off (unless the valve has some leakby in it, and it just might if it is off all the way).
"I'd like to do this fix for the summer, if I wanted to install such a valve in which hose should I put it?"
If you were to do this, it should be put in same hose as heater valve. But, another way would be to just run hose from tube coming out of head to the water tube going back to the water pump. This would bypass heater core all together, no need for another valve this way, but no ability to get heat at all either.
If your going to replace or work on heater valve, I found it much easier to unhook cable from the inside of car at the control lever inside console, allow cable to be pulled out of firewall with heater valve still attached to other end just far enough to provide access to the clip holding the cable on this valve, then just pull cable back to the control lever inside. Anyway ya look at it, its still a PITA. For the trouble involved, I would recommend a new heater valve, and hose from the tube coming out of the head to the heater valve, be installed to avoid having to go back into it again anytime soon.
"I do have the timing inspection hole well plugged as anti-freeze might do a number on my clutch, I hear"
Keep it covered anytime your working above this hole also. Don't want to drop the cable clip, or anything else in the bellhousing either. If your leaking coolant from this area, you really need to stop this leak ASAP.
I just replaced the heater core, hoses, heater valve and small tube hose in my '83 a couble weeks back, a real fun thing....NOT! Good luck!
06-08-2004, 02:39 AM
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My cable is messed up also. I just reach my hand in and move the white lever all the way over and the heat is cut completely off. Doing it that way, you don't have to worry about putting back together come winter.
