hunt991

Im doing a clutch job at home on my 1985.5 944 and have the following items also being replace and was wondering if there is anything else I should do while Im in the middle of the job or worth looking into doing. The items on top of the clutch being replaced I have so far are:

-Pilot bearing
-Main seal
-Guide tube for clutch release
-Clutch fork bearings
-Resurfacing flywheel
-New flywheel bolts
-Throw out bearing

931guru

While you have the torque tube isolated from the rest of the driveline, listen for noises when rotating the driveshaft... if noisy, replace the four bearings with new.

When reinstalling the bracket for flywheel sensors, ditch the cheesehead/allen bolts for regular hex head bolts.

hunt991

Good point, definitely worth checking on those. Thanks

Breakaway944

Do not use VR rear main seal!
If you are considering a short shift kit now would be the time since you have easy access to the top of the transaxle.
might as well check if any of the seals on the transaxle are leaking and replace them - or at minimum the input shaft seal since it is hard to get at.

Zirconocene

How is your transmission mount? What about the state of the shift linkage on top of the transmission?

Cheers

four0four

Cut the bellhousing such that you can remove/reinstall it without disturbing the VR (edit: variable reluctance - the speed/reference) sensors - this makes gapping 'em a breeze, too.

hunt991

I considered short shift kit since Ive grown so in love with the short throw on the Spyder. Need to do some more research on whether its a good upgrade or not. Adding input shaft seal to list.

hunt991

Have heard mixed feelings from many on doing this. I know the gapping is a pain however

Zirconocene

You're going to have everything out, the gapping won't be any kind of difficult. You can get it set (measured and gapped correctly) before you reattach the torque tube and be confident that everything will be the same once the TT and trans are back on the car. There are also 3D printable tools that can help if you're really worried. I think this issue is made out to be bigger than it really is, but YMMV.

Cheers

DHS928

I cut the bell housing for the sensors and it does kick back! Had to get a bell housing an that stoped it. Used the glue the card board on your sensor and that worked. The Constantine super TT bearing kit is what you want, or send it to him for a complete overhaul worth powder coat.

ElRicardo

This question may be only slightly smaller than "what else do I replace when the engine is out?". Where to begin... Unless you have invented a new way to do a full clutch job, here are my top "economy jobs" to do while you are in there (assuming a full clutch job already includes mew pressure plate, RMS, Pilot bearing, clutch fork bearings, etc.):

Exhaust is off- great time to replace those squeaky rubber hangers and also the two triangular gaskets that connect the exhaust manifolds to the first section of exhaust.
.
Transaxle is out- do the simple transaxle mount mod (search)- super easy, one of the highest ROI mods you can do.. Replace transaxle seals- cheap & easy with transaxle out. If CV's and boots are good don't touch them. With transaxle out the tank is never easer to get to- change the fuel filter..

Bellhousing is out- great time to replace the slave cylinder. I have yet to see an original one that wasn't begging for a change, and they are cheap. Now is also a good time to replace you engine ground cable from battery to bellhousing. They get crunchy-corroded and they don't fail at once- the resistance builds up and your cranking gets weaker and weaker. Most people will swap a battery, and a fresh battery makes it better for a while, but on these old cars the engine ground being corroded and building up resistance can send you down many dead ends. Finally, swap those reference and speed sensors. Some people will says "if it ain't broke...". Yeah well, when they do it may be somewhere less convenient than in your garage!.

Anyway I think that is 8?

Oh yeah, and the previous post about check your torque tube bearings.is good advice. But expensive. Still , if it needs doing, it needs doing.

toddbailey

don't forget the master/slave cylinders

Dan Martinic

I re-used my original clutch fork.. heck, I even sent it out to get "hardened" & upgraded bearings etc... ...it cracked a few months after. New ones had become available & obviously did the whole job over just to install one...

Tiger03447

I have found on my ‘83, that if and when you change out the ref sensors, first get a pair of 12 inch “ring nose” pliers. They will really help and will fit around the sensor body to help pull them out of the mounting block, especially if they’ve never been changed before. Keep the old sensor and use it to glue the washer to it for a gapping gauge.

Tiger03447

Dan: Sorry that you had to go through this. I did everything but the clutch fork, when I did my clutch. Is this on your track car or your DD?