ALEXTHEGREAT

Interesting, I took at look at it and this is what I'm interpreting based off what you said? Black circle is the diode and red line is the path?

This is the .01 relay, looks good?

orig944

Correct. I also don't see how the upper relay gets energized unless there is a wire on the top side.

ALEXTHEGREAT

Interesting. Regardless though, that diode should test correctly whether it was properly connected or not?

orig944

No, because the relay coil is across it as well. The diode is likely good since you get a different reading one way vs. the other. They will usually short or open completely if bad. One thing is for sure, that relay is not a substitute for the earlier version.

ALEXTHEGREAT

Makes sense, I do get different readings each way on my .01 relay which is good. The .03 relay is where we had the same reading each way which we determined was shorted. But the diode isn't connected to the PCB properly.

ALEXTHEGREAT

So just for fun I decided to test the new .03 relay as per the instructions outlined on Clark's Garage (https://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/cool-01.htm). Applied 12V power to pin 85 and ground to pin 86 as instructed, relay clicks. I swapped power to pin 86 and ground to pin 85 to see what would happen and as expected the relay still clicked when it shouldn't if the diode was installed correctly. Did the same power test on my .01 relay and the relay on clicked when supplying 12V power to pin 85. Did the resistance tests as per the instructions for the .03 relay. Measured terminals "A" and "B" as well as "30" and "87". Should be seeing zero on my meter, but got these reading as expected.

orig944

If you haven't sent this back yet, could you measure the resistance from A to B, and A to C. It may be possible to easily modify this relay to be the same as the old one. A to B should be shorted, A to C should be open.

Edit: Also, If A isn't connected to B, see if it is connected to any other point. It looks like it is not connected at all.