I have an IDEA!! (eliminate tube that dumps oil into intake)
#1
Campeck Rulez
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ok, Theres a tube that goes from the oil separator to the intake.
If you look at this tube it is full of oil and crap. And it disgusts me to know that all that is going into my baby's engine.
this tube. the one right under the idle stabilizer and right above that gray wire. ( we'll call this tube "tube 1".)
there is a little tube that connects to tube one and goes past the brake booster to the junction point were the gas fumes meet with the oil fumes to go the charcoal canister.
this is the little tube that connects to "tube 1" (we'll call this little tube "tube 2".)
"tube 2" comes here. ("tube 2" is the one inbetween the blue tube and the thicker tube.)
what I plan to do is to cut "tube 1" right after it comes from the oils separator here:
and reattach the v shaped end to the little hose that will be left after I cut it. That will allow me to still attach "tube 2" to the v shaped thing and then I will cap off the end of the v shaped thing.
Thus eliminating the nasty oil crap going into the intake but still maintaning the functoin of the unit. Without the suction of the intake it might work slower, but it will still work.
Ashton
P.S. your thoughts?
If you look at this tube it is full of oil and crap. And it disgusts me to know that all that is going into my baby's engine.
this tube. the one right under the idle stabilizer and right above that gray wire. ( we'll call this tube "tube 1".)
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/000_0108adadad.jpg)
there is a little tube that connects to tube one and goes past the brake booster to the junction point were the gas fumes meet with the oil fumes to go the charcoal canister.
this is the little tube that connects to "tube 1" (we'll call this little tube "tube 2".)
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/000_0110adadad.jpg)
"tube 2" comes here. ("tube 2" is the one inbetween the blue tube and the thicker tube.)
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/000_0111daadada.jpg)
what I plan to do is to cut "tube 1" right after it comes from the oils separator here:
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/000_0112adada.jpg)
and reattach the v shaped end to the little hose that will be left after I cut it. That will allow me to still attach "tube 2" to the v shaped thing and then I will cap off the end of the v shaped thing.
Thus eliminating the nasty oil crap going into the intake but still maintaning the functoin of the unit. Without the suction of the intake it might work slower, but it will still work.
Ashton
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P.S. your thoughts?
#2
Three Wheelin'
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Tube 1 will also vent any crankcase pressure to your intake. If you cap it off and make the only point of exit for that pressure through the vapor collection canister, you might build up excessive crankcase pressure at high rpms if your rings are not in top shape (blowby). It's more of an issue for turbo engines, but something to think about.
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Yeah, I'd consult someone who's done something similar (maybe a 944 spec-racer or an engine tuner) before I'd dick with your crankcase vent. Emissions in the 80's were a lot less of a burden to engines, and most that stuff we call "junk" serves a neccessary purpose.
I used to crew for a superbike endurance team, and the hot set-up then (and now) is to mount a catch bottle under the seat for the crankcase breather. Simple, NON-ugly, and still allowing your motor it's neccessary relief.
I used to crew for a superbike endurance team, and the hot set-up then (and now) is to mount a catch bottle under the seat for the crankcase breather. Simple, NON-ugly, and still allowing your motor it's neccessary relief.
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I will second everything Taylor says.
IIRC the carbon canister meets with the crank vent then into the intake.
If that's the case, running a heater hose from the carbon canister and using the same fitting the original used to bring it back into the intake (just eliminating the crank vent - doing what Taylor said) would probably be a good idea.
IIRC the carbon canister meets with the crank vent then into the intake.
If that's the case, running a heater hose from the carbon canister and using the same fitting the original used to bring it back into the intake (just eliminating the crank vent - doing what Taylor said) would probably be a good idea.
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Originally posted by Red 944
I will second everything Taylor says.
I will second everything Taylor says.
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Seriously, though, I haven't spent enough time under the hood of one of these cars to know HOW to do what I'm saying, but again, I'd be leery of futzin' around and ELIMINATING the crank vent. Even race cars have crankcase ventilation. Even FAST race cars. And bikes, and boats, and planes.
#6
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#7
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I think there are 10 or so indepth threads on venting the crank case and catch can etc... a search is probably best. Some alternatives tried are one way check valves on the tube, feed back oil systems via the oil temp/pressure sender threaded port, non return cans with a filter (like the over priced Lindsey unit), and feed back systems with steel wool to catch the oil in the can to maintain vacum in the system, also vented units with dran valves... blah blah... you will also have to drill the tube out to reduce the chance of the oil pan gasket and tube seals going.
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Yeah, the Lindsey unit, while VERY nice looking (and idiot-proof), is pretty damn pricey for what boils down to some hose, clamps, and a chrome-plated coffee can. Oh wait, it's the heat shield that jacks it up to $150. Yeah, the heat shield...
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I paid $40 for the can, $15 for the K&N filter, $10 for some SS line and $8 for an XRP clamp. Looks 10 X better than the Lindsey welded hack job too that has huge ugly welds everythere. not sure why they would try and bend a flat piece of ally round instead of using some round tube???
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Originally posted by NZ951
I paid $40 for the can, $15 for the K&N filter, $10 for some SS line and $8 for an XRP clamp. Looks 10 X better than the Lindsey welded hack job too that has huge ugly welds everythere. not sure why they would try and bend a flat piece of ally round instead of using some round tube???
I paid $40 for the can, $15 for the K&N filter, $10 for some SS line and $8 for an XRP clamp. Looks 10 X better than the Lindsey welded hack job too that has huge ugly welds everythere. not sure why they would try and bend a flat piece of ally round instead of using some round tube???
~Eyal
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NZ, you'd be surprised what people will pollish up and slap a 3-digit price tag on. The bike I was referring to had a stainless catch-bottle made from big-diameter tubing as well. Looked REALLY cool; like even the catch-tank for ****ty, crankcase snot was trick.
Love to see more pics of your car. Silver/ red is a cool combo; post some shots with the catch-tank pics.
Love to see more pics of your car. Silver/ red is a cool combo; post some shots with the catch-tank pics.
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I have been holding off the picture thing till I finish the engine bay, still have to fit the Tial 50mm and new pipes, which is at least 2 weeks away. Though I will do the catch can to show how easy it is.