I have an '83 944 NA. It has AC. I am attempting to proceed with an extensive dash re-wiring. The dash and console are totally out of the car. It is my intention to use a later model relay and fuse board out of a later model car and install it where the glove box is now. Only the GB door will be retained. To do this, I have to extend all the wiring from the firewall around behind the HVAC center section. I have never removed this from the car previously. To do so would require draining all the 134A out of the system, which I am not wanting to do, right now as I don't have a recovery system for this. I can do this as far as a recharge goes, but I digress. So the question remains, if there enough room between the HVAC unit and the firewall to snake a bundle of wires behind it and run the bundle over to the glove box area? I don't really want to pull the HVAC unit out from the dash unless it's REALLY necessary...I guess that I'm lazy...but if I can avoid doing this it would be a major timesaver. The car, is pretty much unmoveable with the under dash wiring all melted..and is up on my quickjack. Many thanks in advance for ANY help.

 

I'm just able to get my fat fingers into the space behind the HVAC. I've added a picture but as you can see this is a chopped unit which has been modified for use in my track car ('87 924s). Were you to 'ladder' your wiring on the hump/firewall you should be able to do so. This type of cable tie would help immensely.

 

Interesting concept. As an aside, have you considered putting the fuse box where in normally goes in the late cars?

 

The location for the relays and fuses in the 924s is just plain schrecklich (horrible). It kills me how difficult it can be to replace the DME relay. $%^&*&^%$#!!! In my case, the stripped down wiring and relay/fuse assembly will be moved to the front of the dashboard on the right. There's so much extra wire wrapped around the steering column as to make this possible.

 

Thanks for the info guys. I considered putting the fuse block where it was on the later cars, but didn’t know how they routed the wiring up to it. I really didn’t want to drill a giant hole in the area above my feet.. Water leakage? Perhaps they bypass that on the later cars somehow.? TIA😀

 

Interesting cable tie. Don’t think I’ve ever seen one like that before. Looks like it has a spot for a securing screw/bolt. More pics please? And maybe a source?TIA😀

 

Just do a search on the term 'screw anchor tie-rap' and you will find these.

 

Thanks for the input guys. Curtiss… if you would be so kind as to explain the term “ladder” that you used in the earlier post, I would be grateful. BTW does anyone have a source for automotive colored wire with a straight stripe like our Porsche wire has? I can find wire in plain colors and colored with spiral stripes, but none with a straight stripe. TIA😀

 

I saw a 3-d printed applicator design somewhere, but any short piece of tubing slightly larger than the wire insulation diameter with a hole in it to apply paint from a paint pen you get from an art supply store will put a colored stripe down the wire as you pull it through the tubing. Just an idea (and one I will use someday.)

 

Great idea! Thanks!😀

 

Found it.

 

Wish I had seen that a year ago!!

 

way way too different and not worth your time doing, just rewire as original and never look back

 

For the wiring, I like Sherco. I use the marine grade stuff, which has thicker insulation that standard automotive wiring (TXL or GXL), but the selection of colors and stripes is great from those guys. Sometimes I have to step up a wire gauge to get the right color, but I'm OK with that.

Cheers

 

Thanks for all the tips, guys. The paint tool deal really looks like a great way to go. I don’t know where to buy Porsche wire, so this looks like a nice workaround. I looked at Sherco and they have great stuff, but they use a spiral tracer wire, which is OK and I’ll probably wind up usuling that or perhaps something similar. Really do like the straight tracer, though. TIA😀