Porsche8777

The male plastic connectors on the sensors are brittle and cracking. Has anyone found a replacement sensor to replace them. I would hate to have to replace the sensors because of a plastic connector. Also don't want to destroy the connectors on the harness since they seem fine.

83na944

I wrapped mine in electrical tape.

z3bra

I cut mine off because the plastic had actually broken and just soldered some pins on to convert them to garden variety molex 3 conductor plugs. Not the nicest looking way to do it but it works. If it weren't for Weatherpak plug crimpers being upwards of $150 I'd probably go that route instead. Something about paying that much for a crimper just doesn't seem right.

Joe Jackson

I've got two perfect used sensors I'd be willing to part with for $50 a piece.

But since Weatherpak connectors were brought up, I'll chime in with my experience with them. First off, you don't need no stinkin' $150 crimper to use them. The pins they give you can easily be "crimped" with pliers and then tacked in place with some solder. I originally bought these to convert an early style cam angle sensor to fit a later model for an Eagle Talon. Worked like a charm. I've since used them for stereo work and a couple of other oddball sensors. Sure, the crimper would be nice and would simplify the assembly but I would probably solder the connection with the crimper too just to be sure I got a good connection.

If you've got crumbling speed and reference sensor plugs then give them a try and let me know how it works out. A friend's car has the same issue so I may beat you to it though now that you put the idea in my head.

z3bra

Now that you mention it, I think the 14 dollar Fry's Electronics Molex type pin crimper might actually work pretty good on weatherpak pins/sockets. It isn't a nice sexy ratcheting crimper but for 1/10th the price I guess you can't complain too much. If I recall correctly, you just want the one that has a crimped profile of flat on one side and a double hump on the opposite for the actual conductor. It seems like the plug/boot crimp was more of just a single rounded profile on top but it's been a while since I've crimped one so I'm a bit rusty. A double hump should work anyway as long as you don't totally overdo it when you crimp it. I do think it's probably close enough that soldering will finish the job pretty decently on the conductor crimp, the seal crimp might require more playing around with but I'd say it's worth a try anyway, now I just need to find a local source for them or order a few from Digikey or Waytek or somewhere along those lines.

FWIW the Molex plug isn't showing any problems after being in place for about a month or so. I'd like it to be a sealed connector but the originals weren't either so it's probably not an issue to begin with.

Anyway the only difficult part of switching it was just soldering while bent halfway over the engine compartment since I didn't want to pull the sensor and the other side of the wiring harness out of the car to fix it. Kind of a pain but doable.

Also as a warning, remember that the wires are shielded and the braided shield goes to one of the 3 conductors. Additionally, the wire colors on the opposite sides of the connectors are different from each other so what I found the easiest was to just snip the whole connector out and then check continuity with the Ohmmeter to figure out what mates to what.

Money no object I'd just say screw it and use mil-spec metal body cannon plugs but those things are stupid expensive. The fake plastic ones aren't a bad compromise though and they're much more reasonable other than the pins themselves on cannon plugs cost a fortune. (They're gold plated so I suppose that's somewhat of an excuse) Can't beat the density of connections in one though, you could have the whole engine hooked up via 1 big plug for quick and easy removal.

lilredpo

Found you on a search....

Quick question, how do I get the senors out? There appears to be hex bolts on top of each. When removed, I can't seem to pull them up and out.

They also appear to be mounted to the engine block, pivoting on one side with an adjustment on the other.

Can I remove from the block with the mounting bracket and are they set to a specific depth?

Thanks in advance,
Ray

PS I am trying to remove the bell housing on an 87' automatic.