Stubborn oil drain plug...
#1
Nordschleife Master
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Trying to change the oil on the 924S, cant seem to get the oil drain plug off. Im using a 19mm wrench, will soon upgrade to a 1/2inch drive socket. I just want to verify im even turning it the correct direction. Say im working from right under the front bumper, do i want to turn the wrench/ratchet towards me or away from me?
Righty tighty lefty loosey i know, but i cant seem to get this thing to budge either way...maybe im looking at it wrong...
Righty tighty lefty loosey i know, but i cant seem to get this thing to budge either way...maybe im looking at it wrong...
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#2
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Hmm... I believe the oil drain plug is 15mm. It's conventional on my 944 (same engine) and 968 relative to righty tighty. Torque spec is 37 foot pounds and it's likely that it's been tightened a bit too much. I can never get mine off with a 3/8" ratchet and actually use the torque wrench to break it loose and reset when done. Take your time, it's all aluminum. Also, do replace the inexpensive crush washer with each change. It's designed to compress, hence one-time use. In a pinch, I will flip it over and reuse, but not optimal.
Does this help?
Does this help?
#5
Nerd Herder
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Problem is limited space for leverage. It's much easier if it's on jack stands.
PS- dont forget to put the plug back in PRIOR to pouring new oil in.
Doh.
PS- dont forget to put the plug back in PRIOR to pouring new oil in.
Doh.
#6
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Those black plastic Rhino ramps are the hot set-up for oil changes. Place them on the lip of the garage where it starts to slope down towards street (hopefully) and drive right up. Still need lots of room to align a 6-point socket with big wrench on it, but allways worked for me.
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#8
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Its a right hand screw. Clockwise is tight, counterclockwise is loose.
From under the bumper with the ratchet handle pointed toward the drivers door, pull the handle toward the front of the car.
Invest $20 in a set of Rhino ramps. And a long breaker bar. As soon as it breaks free, you can turn it by hand and a ratchet will be useless.
From under the bumper with the ratchet handle pointed toward the drivers door, pull the handle toward the front of the car.
Invest $20 in a set of Rhino ramps. And a long breaker bar. As soon as it breaks free, you can turn it by hand and a ratchet will be useless.
#9
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I could not get enough leverage even with the 1/2 ratchet to get it loose. I will retry tomorrow when im not overheated and getting frustrated. Less likley to break something. I only had one side jacked up, ill try it with both sides on stands tomorrow. Worse comes to worse i will just take it too my fathers shop and put it up on the lift. It was likley my father who last torqued it...hes used to working on domestics
.
This was my first oil change in a driveway, all the others i have done with a car on the lift. Makes things so much easier. Anyway i have been trying to find a set of ramps to buy today, Pepboys and AutoBarn both didnt have them. I know Walmart carries them, but they are the metal type (not to mention Walmart is about a 45 minutes away).
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This was my first oil change in a driveway, all the others i have done with a car on the lift. Makes things so much easier. Anyway i have been trying to find a set of ramps to buy today, Pepboys and AutoBarn both didnt have them. I know Walmart carries them, but they are the metal type (not to mention Walmart is about a 45 minutes away).
#11
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Mike, a good suggestion my father taught me, but i couldnt even get that to work. There was barley enough clearance to work with a 3/4 socket, let alone using a wrench as leverage. Im going to try and find a set of Rhino Ramps tonight.
#12
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Autozone and Murrays carry them as well.
Wish I had access to a lift! Life could be SO much simpler...
Good call on walking away from heated situation. I've made that mistake too many times myself. Outcome was usually somewhere between bad and horribly bad...
Wish I had access to a lift! Life could be SO much simpler...
Good call on walking away from heated situation. I've made that mistake too many times myself. Outcome was usually somewhere between bad and horribly bad...
#13
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It sounds like you are working under your car while it is just being held up by a jack. This is VERY unsafe when ever you work under a car you should have it supported with jack stands. Good luck and be safe!
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Sorry, I was thinking about a Volvo in my last post. The drain on the 944 is on the back of the oil pan. From the drivers side with the wrench pointing toward the drivers door, you need to press down on the wrench to loosen the plug.
If you have access to a lift, I suggest you use it.
Once some shop put my drain plug on way too tight. I finally resorted to jacking the car up, putting a long breaker bar on the plug, and lowering the car. I wouldn't suggest that.
BTW, 37 ft-lbs ain't that much torque. Someone overtightened the plug.
If you have access to a lift, I suggest you use it.
Once some shop put my drain plug on way too tight. I finally resorted to jacking the car up, putting a long breaker bar on the plug, and lowering the car. I wouldn't suggest that.
BTW, 37 ft-lbs ain't that much torque. Someone overtightened the plug.
#15
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Tom, i had the car secured with a jackstand and wheel chocks...saftey first
.
I managed to find the ramps finally at AutoBarn, they were literally hidden under a parts bin, only noticed it as i was walking out. Not bad, only $30.00. I wish i bought these things a long time ago, makes work so much easier. Time to do all the other jobs i was postponing down under.
This is a sort of off the original topic question, but now that i have the stands i plan on changing brake fluid and bleeding the system tomorrow. The caliper bleeding screw is located at the top of the caliper on the N/A cars right? I took a brief look while i was under, just want to make sure.
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I managed to find the ramps finally at AutoBarn, they were literally hidden under a parts bin, only noticed it as i was walking out. Not bad, only $30.00. I wish i bought these things a long time ago, makes work so much easier. Time to do all the other jobs i was postponing down under.
This is a sort of off the original topic question, but now that i have the stands i plan on changing brake fluid and bleeding the system tomorrow. The caliper bleeding screw is located at the top of the caliper on the N/A cars right? I took a brief look while i was under, just want to make sure.