alright. i got done working on my car the other day before the storm came......and i heard clacking really loud. i got scared and thought my calipers bolts backed out AGAIN. i went back to my garage.....the bolts were tight, but i retorqued them anyway. when i was spinning my rotor, the inside front passenger side pad would hit a spot and jump. i saw nothing wrong with the rotors or pads. it isnt doing it all the time. thta day was so far the hottest of the year, could that have done it? i dont have the pad liners on the pads. i just put grease on the backs. i also have a back shimmy in the steering when i brake. i was hoping my bad control arm bushings were causing it. but its still there. when i press on the brake harder, the shimmy goes away........is this possibly all related to the liners not being there? i was really amazed that just by spinning the rotor (not at a high speed) that i got the pad to clack. i thought the liners were just to prevent squealing. i also hear the clack all the time when i change from reverse to forward and so on.

 

Kenny, I see a few possibilities here:

1. Warped front rotors. Are they original on the car?
2. Front wheel bearings need adjusting.
3. Ball joints worn and have excessive play.
4. Tie rod assemblies worn and have excessive play.

There's not much you can do about 3 and 4 other than replace these parts, if you haven't already. If you've taken care of these already, I just got through fixing problem 2. Raise the front end of the car and see if the wheels rock top to bottom or side to side. Any play will indicate loose wheel bearings.

In addition to the regular stuff to raise the car and pull the wheels (floorjack, stands, lug wrench), you'll need a hammer, chisel, 6mm allen key, big flathead screwdriver, hammer, and thin flathead screwdriver.

Driver side wheel, you'll need to be very careful to remove the tiny clip for the speedometer cable with the thin flathead screwdriver and keep track of where you put it. Hit around the grease cap with the hammer and chisel until it comes off. Inside, you'll see there's a locking collar with an allen bolt in it. There's a groove where the grease cap fits and you need to turn the hub until you can put the allen key through there to undo the bolt.

OK, once you've loosened the bolt turn the collar clockwise by tapping it with the big screwdriver. There's a big washer behind it that should move freely when you push it sideways with the screwdriver. Another good way to check for proper wheel bearing adjustment is by grasping the hub with both hands and attempting to rock it to see if you hear any play. There should be no play in it but the large washer behind the collar should still move when you push it.

Once the collar is positioned so that there's no play in the hub and the washer is still moveable, lock it in place with the allen key. Grasp the speedometer cable with pliers and give it a gentle tug to push it out enough to where you can get it through the grease cap when you tap it back on. Replace the tiny clip to hold it in place. You can use some glue to keep it there. Replace the wheel and check again for any play.

The passenger side procedure is identical but you don't have to deal with the speedo cable.

Give it a whirl and report back!

 

i just put new ball joints in last weekend, this IS the only wheel that doesnt have new bearings yet......i couldnt get the races out. i dont have new tie rods yet. the rotors are new and were put on maybe 3 months ago. they are the ate power discs with that neutron looking continuous groove.