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Looks like you have waay more than corrosion problems sadly 😥 something got really hot next to that chip!!
I totally agree, I noticed on the back of the back sides of the boards something looked toasty and off color compared to the rest, I'll snap a picture of it when i get home and post it to the thread. I also remember faintly smelling electrical yesterday when cranking and thought it could be the new starter, maybe it was the ECU/DME?
Today I stuck the Harbor Freight fuel pressure tester on the car, didn't blow any lines off and held the same pressure on the gauge for and hour and a half. I also hit the ECU/DME with a heat gun incase there was any bad solder joints, haven't put it in the car yet but will tomorrow. Just an update, haven't done much or figured anything else out.
The gauge was the first one I picked up because it was the only thing I could immediately put on the vehicle. It maxes at 10 psi. I got a new gauge that maxes at 100, I'm going to try to see if I can get that one to connect.
I'm using the ftech9 dme relay with the 3 second fuel pump prime because I have yet to put my DME in. I'm going to try the test when cranking and see the psi. The psi after prime was 25-26psi and when the pump was running it was 33-34psi. Whilest pump is running Immediately after the pump stopped running
I sent some pictures of the ECU/DME to the previous owner of the car and he said the heat spots on the ECU/DME are new and he sent me pictures of when he had it apart and it looks much less crispy than the ECU/DME now. I'm going to source a new ECU/DME and will post on the thread if it's the issue.
I have a bad early ECU you can have for the shipping. I picked it up in a group sale of parts. You might be able to salvage some parts out of it if you want it. pM me if interested. You might also see if spraying carb cleaner around the throttle body/AFM fitting. Sometimes the big O ring there goes bad and would provide an air leak point. HTH some😀
I have a bad early ECU you can have for the shipping. I picked it up in a group sale of parts. You might be able to salvage some parts out of it if you want it. pM me if interested. You might also see if spraying carb cleaner around the throttle body/AFM fitting. Sometimes the big O ring there goes bad and would provide an air leak point. HTH some😀
I'm pretty sure I'm going to send my ECU/DME to FTech9 for their spec ECU/DME. I just need to find a local loaner ECU/DME or buy one so I can limp the car to the tag agency to get it registered.
Today I received and new to me DME I took it apart to look at it and it was stock, while I was in there I adjusted the FQS to +%3 fuel. I put the DME in and cranked the car and it would have little puffs of light almost off and on, when I gave it %75-%85 throttle it would get some life and it would puff a little longer. Its hard to describe what the car was doing, I'll have to record me cranking the car and post it but if anyone has any thoughts please help.
I took a look at timing today, it's very hard to see and it looks very close, I'd like to hear people's thoughts on it and if the belt looks good. (Two photos of the gear are linked because lighting and one was taken at tdc exhaust and tdc intake.
Thanks,
TurrFinn
Today I threw some fresh gas with seafoam and octane booster in the car, I flushed about 2.5 gallons though the fuel lines out of the rail. The fuel looks yellow in the photo but green in person. I tried to start the car on 4 injectors and it just sputtered then I unplugged cylinder 1's injector and tried to start it on 3. It stated for about 4 seconds running rough. The craziest part is fuel pressure is good and when I purchased the car it would only run on 3 injectors, and it had low fuel pressure. Anyone know why it likes 3 injectors more than 1? Fresh gas on the left old gas in the bucket
Separate J Boot at AFM outlet. Next step takes 2 people. One person activates starter and second person sprays starter fluid into J Boot inlet. Does the engine start?
If so, then remove fuel rail and insert each injector into a container of equal volume. Crank engine for several seconds.
Is there equal volume of fuel in each container? If not, switch injectors and redo. Has anything changed?
Separate J Boot at AFM outlet. Next step takes 2 people. One person activates starter and second person sprays starter fluid into J Boot inlet. Does the engine start?
If so, then remove fuel rail and insert each injector into a container of equal volume. Crank engine for several seconds.
Is there equal volume of fuel in each container? If not, switch injectors and redo. Has anything changed?
Consult Clark's Garage for help on diagnostics
I have tried brakleen in the intake and it sputters as normal, I also put cups under the injectors and all fired the same amount of liquid. I think brakleen somewhat helps but it's hard to tell, it all sounds the same.
I have tried brakleen in the intake and it sputters as normal, I also put cups under the injectors and all fired the same amount of liquid. I think brakleen somewhat helps but it's hard to tell, it all sounds the same.
01-13-2023 | 11:58 AM
