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Question: ATE Master Cylinder Installation Preparation

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Old 05-10-2004, 05:48 PM
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89magic98
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Default Question: ATE Master Cylinder Installation Preparation

Clark's Garage states:

"Most master cylinders will come with instructions for filling the unit prior to installation. This usually involves installing the reservoir tank onto the master cylinder and installing nipples into the brake line ports with clear tubing routed back to the reservoir. "

OK, I've either lost the instructions that came with my new ATE master cylinder, or it never came with instructions.

There are five connections on the new master cylinder. Two are for the reservoir. Two have plastic plugs in them. The last one has a metal allen plug. I can post a picture tonight if that's necessary.

I have clear tubing that I can use, but I don't have any additional hardware that came with the master cylinder. Any ideas on what I can/should do to prime the master cylinder with fluid before the install?

Thanks!
Old 05-10-2004, 06:11 PM
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Stan944
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As you know, it is recommended to bench bleed it before installation. You'll have to make these nipples yourself, as they are virtually impossible to buy.
These nipples plug to the tapped holes (3 in my case) that are probably plagged wih rubber plugs. You need a hose barb fitting or similar, connect a few inches of clear tubing, and route it back to the fluid reservoir on top of the master cylinder. Then slide the shaft a few times until there are no more bubbles.
As the holes are metric, it's hard to find it in North America, but try a local hardware store. I found British-thread (?) adapters in my local store.
Old 05-10-2004, 06:20 PM
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89magic98
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Can I accomplish the same bleeding by installing the master cylinder and depressing the brake pedal several times (although not to the floor)?
Old 05-11-2004, 04:51 AM
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Hans
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Originally posted by 89magic98
Can I accomplish the same bleeding by installing the master cylinder and depressing the brake pedal several times (although not to the floor)?
Yes you can, but it will take much longer than bench bleeding.

Fair chance that the ATE cylinder came without bench bleeding instructions.
It is common practice for shops to use a power bleeder. They just bleed 30 seconds longer and don't bother with the bench bleeding.

To get "nipples": Take pliers, junior type hack saw, spanners. Visit a car dismantler / junk yard, find any VW / Audi with master cylinder still in.
Use hack saw (or Chanelock wire cutters), cut old brake line at say 2 inch from cylinder, use spanner to take out nipple.
Repeat as required to obtain correct quantity and have one spare just in case.
You may need to visit 2 cars since the normal VW / Audi has only 3 nipples on the master, but fair chance that the connections on the wheel cylinders will fit as well.
While you are in there, take one container cap with you as well (preferably a plain one without float). This is required to create your own US$ 10,-- power bleeder. (more info: PM me and provide e-mail address)
Back home you can de-bur and clean as required.
TakeCare
Old 05-11-2004, 05:00 AM
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89magic98
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Hans,

Oh, I have a Motive Power Bleeder. Does this mean that I can skip the bench bleeding step?

Thanks for the good idea about the salvage yard!



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