question about yamabond
05-09-2004, 09:39 PM
#1
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question about yamabond
From searching it appears some people use yamabond 4 on the oil pump to block seal... But others use it on the oil pan (corners). So are both methods correct? It seems to me like a silicon type substance would be needed for the oil pan as opposed to the hard loctite 574 type seal. Just searching for some answers. Also by applying the sealant to the corners of the oil pan gasket, which surface of the corners are they referring to? Top, bottom, inside, outside?
05-10-2004, 05:41 AM
#3
Race Director
No, DO NOT use ANY type of silicone sealant ANYWHERE that may come in contact with oil! The only place silicone-type of sealant will work is on the water-pump gasket, that's it.
Yamabond-4 is not a silicone sealant and is more similar to the Loctite-574 that's recommended for the corners. It dries to a semi-hard/soft material with good strength.
Yamabond-4 was designed to seal motorcycle case with metal-to-metal surfaces and no gasket. It can seal up to 0.5mm gaps in those types of applications. However, for the oil-pan gasket, it will only work well with the original gasket. It will NOT work well for the replacement gaskets you can get nowadays. The differences is in the thickness and width of this replacement gasket which doesn't have as much clamping as the original gasket. You can really tell the difference when you place the gaskets next to each other. The "good" gasket can be seen easily as it has a wider thickness in the semi-circle section at the front & rear.
If you're unsure which gasket you have, use 3M Fastak Weatherstripping Adhesive (#08031 or #08033, #08034, in a pinch #08014/#08015 would do). I've also found that DevCon Weldit All Purpose Adhesive with 900psi bond-strength works very nicely as well. With both of these compounds, use the following procedure:
1. remove old gasket and scrap off all old materials from mating surfaces.
2. wipe off oil-pan surface, bottom of engine block, inside of engine-block, bottom of girdle and oil pickup tube with acetone to remove ALL traces of oil
3. insert four bolts (2 per side) 1/3 distance from ends up through oil-pan and hold in place with duct tape over heads, this helps to locate and hold the gasket in place
<you have 5-10minutes max between steps 4-16>
4. quickly spread even layer of glue to top of oil-pan, same thickness about (about 0.25mm thick, 5mm wide)
.5. quickly spread even layer of Fastak or Weldit to bottom side of gasket , 0.25mm, 5mm wide.
6. place gasket over bolts sticking up from oil-pan, make sure all other holes are lined up.
7. quickly spread even layer of glue to bottom of engine-block
8. quickly spread even layer of glue to top of oil-pan gasket
9. hold oil-pan under engine rotated 45-degrees (driver's side down)
10. Move oil pan up to 1" under engine, about 6" towards passenger side, then slide over and insert oil-pickup into hole in baffle.
11. rotate pan up so that it is parallel with block
12. wiggle and insert four bolts sticking through into holes on block
13. insert several other bolts and make they are threaded before letting go of oil pan
14. insert all other bolts in oil-pan
15. make sure semicircle section in front and rear are fully seated in their grooves (use safety-wire or coat hanger bent 90-degrees at tip to feel the gasket in the back)
16. use expanding circle pattern and only tighten oil-pan bolts to 1-lb/ft, enough to ooze some of the sealant out in small droplets, but not enough to bulge out the gasket itself.
17. let sit overnight as sealant dries.
18. go back and fully tighten oil-pan bolts in 2-3 passes.
Yamabond-4 is not a silicone sealant and is more similar to the Loctite-574 that's recommended for the corners. It dries to a semi-hard/soft material with good strength.
Yamabond-4 was designed to seal motorcycle case with metal-to-metal surfaces and no gasket. It can seal up to 0.5mm gaps in those types of applications. However, for the oil-pan gasket, it will only work well with the original gasket. It will NOT work well for the replacement gaskets you can get nowadays. The differences is in the thickness and width of this replacement gasket which doesn't have as much clamping as the original gasket. You can really tell the difference when you place the gaskets next to each other. The "good" gasket can be seen easily as it has a wider thickness in the semi-circle section at the front & rear.
If you're unsure which gasket you have, use 3M Fastak Weatherstripping Adhesive (#08031 or #08033, #08034, in a pinch #08014/#08015 would do). I've also found that DevCon Weldit All Purpose Adhesive with 900psi bond-strength works very nicely as well. With both of these compounds, use the following procedure:
1. remove old gasket and scrap off all old materials from mating surfaces.
2. wipe off oil-pan surface, bottom of engine block, inside of engine-block, bottom of girdle and oil pickup tube with acetone to remove ALL traces of oil
3. insert four bolts (2 per side) 1/3 distance from ends up through oil-pan and hold in place with duct tape over heads, this helps to locate and hold the gasket in place
<you have 5-10minutes max between steps 4-16>
4. quickly spread even layer of glue to top of oil-pan, same thickness about (about 0.25mm thick, 5mm wide)
.5. quickly spread even layer of Fastak or Weldit to bottom side of gasket , 0.25mm, 5mm wide.
6. place gasket over bolts sticking up from oil-pan, make sure all other holes are lined up.
7. quickly spread even layer of glue to bottom of engine-block
8. quickly spread even layer of glue to top of oil-pan gasket
9. hold oil-pan under engine rotated 45-degrees (driver's side down)
10. Move oil pan up to 1" under engine, about 6" towards passenger side, then slide over and insert oil-pickup into hole in baffle.
11. rotate pan up so that it is parallel with block
12. wiggle and insert four bolts sticking through into holes on block
13. insert several other bolts and make they are threaded before letting go of oil pan
14. insert all other bolts in oil-pan
15. make sure semicircle section in front and rear are fully seated in their grooves (use safety-wire or coat hanger bent 90-degrees at tip to feel the gasket in the back)
16. use expanding circle pattern and only tighten oil-pan bolts to 1-lb/ft, enough to ooze some of the sealant out in small droplets, but not enough to bulge out the gasket itself.
17. let sit overnight as sealant dries.
18. go back and fully tighten oil-pan bolts in 2-3 passes.
Last edited by Danno; 05-10-2004 at 01:53 PM.
