I listed this in the other 944/944S forum to no avail. Going to cut and paste it here to see if it can gain any traction.

Hi members, well it look like it time to start working on this 944 that doesn't run. My son will be driving in 4 months so I'd like to help him get it up and running.

Back story, purchased this car last year as a non running project from another member here on Rennlist. He purchased it from the original owner and drove it for about 1.5 years then it died on him. He thought he could fix it but then realized it's over his head so he sold it to my son.

As the car sits now, it cranks, has spark and gets fuel. It cranks but sounds like a car that's out of gas. There is oil in the coolant but can't see coolant in the oil because the oil is fresh so apparently someone changed out the oil before I got the car.

Also did a compression test on the first cylinder and it was 0. Didn't bother doing the others.

My guess is head gasket is blown. I can't think of anything else that would be culprit. Appreciate any input before I start tearing into this.

 

Bent valves.

 

Engine oil cooler seal leak

 

Either one of the above. If you want reliability pull the motor and go thru it. Easy to say from this side of the screen but true. If the timing belt broke and valves are bent when cranking the motor it will not have a uniform sound where as if it was in good working order each compression stoke will have a balanced sound when cranking. If it had no Comp. across the board then it would have a smooth sound with no resistance. Now pull the distributor cap and crank it if the ignition rotor spins then at least the cam gear is spinning and the belt is at least in place and working whether its timed rt or not who knows a very fundamental test. Maybe you are lucky and it does and have a blown gasket and a oil cooler leak but bending over and under the car to work on that is tuff so Ill say it again pull it out and go through what needs attention. Keep us posted.

 

Removing the engine takes.10-12 hours with the proper support equipment. Removing the head takes 2-3 hours but one hour is already included in the removing engine exercise. Once the head is removed, access to the oil cooler is easy. You do need an oil cooler alignment tool to reinstall the oil cooler housing. The cylinder head ican be checked for bent valves and warping by a reliable porsche machine shop or contact Michael Mount at michaelmount123@gmail.com

 

Im with ya its time consuming. I suppose once the head is off and theres absolute confidence that the top end is the problem go for it. Being bent over and limited sight in certain areas leaves room errors. If he's skilled then not so much but you want it right if the son is going to drive it.

 

agree probably bent valves, removing the head is relatively easy. Maybe do a leak down on all four

 

I originally thought that due to the oil in the coolant but wouldn't the car still start? It gets spark and fuel.

The car has a smooth sound with absolutely no resistance. Your description is what I was looking for to describe to you folks. Very smooth cranking. Honestly doesn't even sound like the pistons are moving.

I'll delve in further and then send a shout out to Michael when I get this head off.

.

I'm pretty skilled and meticulous at assembling things. I take the time and never rush so I'm thinking I should be good. I've watched countless videos and read till my eyes are sore. I now come to the members to see what they think. Appreciate all the input and also thinking about the young one.

Ok, stay tuned everyone. I'll dive into it this afternoon and get back to everyone.

Thanks for the traction in the thread. Appreciate it. Heck, maybe I'll turn on the Go Pro and throw it on my You Tube.

Ed
Pasadena, Ca

 

Photos and more info (like year, model and mileage) about the car might be very helpful but in general, I'm with Gasngo on pulling the engine of an unknown, non running, sat for years 944. Assuming the valves are crashed (99.5% possibility), the rod bearings should be inspected and serviced. If there was coolant mixed with the oil, the rod bearings must be inspected. Further benefits of removing the engine include:
access to the clutch, which if original has a rubber torsion damping center and is in the process of failing.
resealing of balance shaft housings
rear main seal replacement
replacement of engine mounts

 

I am not sure I have much to add except to agree with either pull the head first, or just pull the whole engine.

What advice I do have to offer is what I learned working at a bank... document, document, document.

Take video of cranking it now. Take video and still pictures to document everything under the hood. Don't be afraid to label wires and parts with painter's tape as you unhook and disassemble things. It's not a terrible idea to set up a tripod and video yourself during the entire engine or head removal. You can speak out loud notes to yourself.
Is all that overkill? To some it would be. But I think pictures and video cost you nothing in terms of dollars and you could find it handy later. Or even content for your youtube channel.
You can also disregard what I said, haha! Do it your way. The only thing documenting will cost you is extra time. Maybe you have a helper that could help you do all the labeling, picture and video work, your son or someone else.
Good luck in your project. I look forward to hear about the progress.

 

Smooth sound. like the pistons aren't even moving....
Doesn't bode well for the compression.
Compression test to verify that it's missing,
Leakdown test to see where it went.

Or just pull the motor now and go through it.
Bummer.

 

Prior to pulling the cam cover , be sure to slip a thin piece of metal or plastic under the cover to keep the lifters from falling out and swapping holes. Put them in order, keeping the cylinders as well as the intake/exhaust valves organized. A segmented plastic box full of fresh oil might be way to go here, keeping the lifters covered and away from contamination. Just a thought.